When it comes down to it there is nothing better than manual tools for your Lock pick Set, whether they be retail, homebrew, macgyver style. DIY'ers look here.
by Libris » 14 Feb 2007 6:02
Lynx40 wrote:One additional thing... (sorry for the double post)
You don't need to use acetone or other solvent to take the toner off when you are finished. It scrubs off really well with an ordinary scotch pad or other scrub pad and some hot water.
Don't worry if you can't get all of the toner off. It will come off easily while you are sanding the pick.
Yes, that's ture, but I believe tere are some people who don't sand their picks,. I myself rarely use acetone or nailpolish cleaner, I prefer sanding, but hey, I don't think it's so bad to write this
Am I blind, or I really cannot edit my posts? Why?
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Libris
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by Libris » 14 Feb 2007 6:04
Whoa, that's a hell of a lot mistakes, here's the corrcted post:
Yes, that's true, but I believe there are some people who don't sand their picks. I myself rarely use acetone or nailpolish cleaner, I prefer sanding, but hey, I don't think it's so bad to write this
Am I blind, or I really cannot edit my posts? Why?
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Libris
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by Lynx40 » 14 Feb 2007 14:36
Libris, I agree it's not a bad idea to put it in there...that's what some PCB sites say, too. I've just found that a simple pot and pan scrubber takes it off really well, and I figured I would throw it in just in case there's someone trying it for the first time and they think they need to go out and buy a solvent for that step.
Don't take that as an "error" in your post or anything. It's a good tutorial. I was just passing along some info I've found from using this technique for a few years of electronics work.
As to not being able to edit the post, I'm new here too, but I THINK the reason for it is because people were getting into heated discussions and would later go back and edit their posts to delete a part and come back later and say "I never said that."
I could be wrong, but that's the impression I got from reading older posts. Someone who has been here a lot longer could tell you for sure. I agree, it can be kind of a pain. I looked back at my first reply to your post and saw I had a typo on the word "board". (Yeah, I just pointed it out to everyone, so go back and see my mistake.)
It bugs me every time I go back over this thread. But, I'm sure I'll get over it.
Brad
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by Mr. Glass » 7 Mar 2007 1:05
Fantastic post man! Can't wait to try it myself. Don't worry about your english, as I wouldn't have noticed a bit had you not said anything. Besides, I'm sure that there aren't too many other people on the forum that can speak both english and lithuanian! 
-Mr. Glass
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by Libris » 7 Mar 2007 14:29
Gee, thanks
I have one thing to ask Mods: If I update the guide with photos, could you edit the first post to update it?
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by whiteknight38 » 9 Mar 2007 10:27
Anyone try just placing a pick on your hacksaw blade material, and spraying a film of contrasting colored paint over them? Theoretically, when when dry, you could grind out the negative image of the pick on the blade, then clean up the original with solvent.
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by Libris » 10 Mar 2007 16:43
yes, but that's only for making copies of the original pick. What if I have no original? Also, if a pick has a handle of some sort, it won't probably work.
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by bbishop762 » 9 Apr 2007 20:20
Howdy gents,
I used to make my circuit boards from scratch...in efforts to hide the source of course, but anyways, there are some neat iron on transfers used for etching copper circuit boards. You run the image on the printer with the paper...assuming you don´t mind spending a few dollars, and iron it on to any metal that has been cleaned thoroughly with something that will leave it rough, like ajax and a brillo pad. Or a dremel with a brush. Anyways without rambling further check out a site that has the clues....
http://www.fullnet.com/~tomg/gooteepc.htm#1
Hasta pronto,
Obispo
Get on it and exploit!
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by Lynx40 » 9 Apr 2007 20:49
Ummm.....yeah. That's basically what this whole thread was about.
bbishop762 wrote:Howdy gents, I used to make my circuit boards from scratch...in efforts to hide the source of course, but anyways, there are some neat iron on transfers used for etching copper circuit boards. You run the image on the printer with the paper...assuming you don´t mind spending a few dollars, and iron it on to any metal that has been cleaned thoroughly with something that will leave it rough, like ajax and a brillo pad. Or a dremel with a brush. Anyways without rambling further check out a site that has the clues.... http://www.fullnet.com/~tomg/gooteepc.htm#1Hasta pronto, Obispo
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by bbishop762 » 9 Apr 2007 22:57
yer right dude, I didn´t read all the input before I opened my trap
¨¨bow down to the maestro
Attention to detail RANGER.....less guys get killed that way...
Get on it and exploit!
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by gstrendkill » 1 Jan 2008 21:37
nice guide. and dont even sweat the english. this is the internet, people who can speak perfect english seem to forget every year of school they've ever been through past the 2nd grade when they get a keyboard in their hands
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by zsoutendijk » 5 Jan 2008 21:39
true that, for some people 2nd grade is a stretch
great guide, easy to understand and informational!
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by guest5999 » 11 Jan 2008 14:39
that seems like a lot of extra work. a printed template, xacto knife, card stock, and can of spray paint will work beautifully.
As long as the paint is reasonable quality and the metal is roughed, a spray on stencil works fine and is way reuseable if you cut it out of something like acetate instead of paper.
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by vitti » 25 Feb 2008 21:49
just a tip on keeping that water bath warm too...
you can buy small, inexpensive, candle warmers for about $5 USD at most stores that sell candles. It's kinda like a small hotplate that doesn't get that hot. I've never measured the temperature but it's hot enough to be uncomfortable but not hot enough to burn you. I used to use one for keeping my pickling solution warm back when I did a lot of silver jewelery tinkering. Now I use them to.... warm candles. 
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by fredd3039 » 19 Mar 2008 16:54
If you have a "brother" brand laser printer you may have some problems using this technique. I have a brother printer and I could not get this to work no matter what paper I used or how I varied the proceedure. After doing alot of research on the circuit builders sites I came across some info that said the brother brand toner cartridges do something different with their toner mix than regular toner cartridges do. Anyway most people using brother toner cartridges on their circuit prints could not get it to work either.
Armed with this new knowledge I printed some templates on our laser printer at work and tried it again. It worked flawlessly. So if you have a brother printer get an aftermarket toner cartridge not made by brother and it should work fine.
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