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by construct30 » 24 Mar 2008 19:58
I lost the combination to a slaymaker combination lock. Can I use a shim to open it? Is there a way to find the combination for this type? I have been trying to open a master lock I already have the combination to with no luck. I do OK with the last number, but can't hear a difference in clicks with the first number. Will the same idea work on the slaymaker scout or is there an easier way? I tried using a pop can shim to open the slaymaker, with no luck. I have some spring steel comercial made shims on order, I hope they will work on this style. Any one ever crack one of these? I would love to save it.
thanks
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construct30
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by raimundo » 25 Mar 2008 10:16
I havent heard of that company since the 1960's, they are not too difficult, and it may not even have false notches,
sometime way back then, I found at least one old combo lock that had such tolerances that you could open it if you were in a range of numbers about 5 wide. You could know the combo, and off set it that far and still open it.
These are not high security, I suspect that the shim will work easily if you know which leg of the shackle to put it in.
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by bumber » 25 Mar 2008 13:39
Ive never even heard of these before...but a good practice on shimming unknown locks is to shim one side and if it doesnt open, leave the shim in it and shim the other side...that way you shim both sides if its a dual locking shackle, or one of the two side will open it if its a single.
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by construct30 » 26 Mar 2008 15:44
I tried all the various shims, none will fit down in it. There is enough room to get it in the side, but not to slide it around, kind of odd oval shaped, that's on the left side, the right it fits in and slides around nothing. It is made in the USA not bad for an old cheap lock. It only catches, seems to have a gate at one place, it gets a bit stiff in one spot, but not really a catch. It is an odd lock, I might have to just cut it, unless someone knows this kind of lock and can help. Maybe it is not something a newbie should mess with, just get out the bolt cutters.
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by bumber » 26 Mar 2008 21:42
hmm try to use some pliers on the shim on the side it sticks in.....so what are you trying to unlock BTW?
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by Raymond » 26 Mar 2008 23:07
I have never heard of the Slaymaker model "Scout". However all of the other old Slaymaker locks I saw in the 60's & 70's were similar to the current Dudley only much more sloppy. The older ones are not shimmable but can be easily felt open.
Nothing is foolproof to a talented fool. Wisdom is not just in determining how to do something, but also includes determining whether it should be done at all.
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by bumber » 26 Mar 2008 23:26
what made them un-shimmable? just hard to push the release in or were they protected against the attack?(^seems like that would protect them  )
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by Safety0ff » 26 Mar 2008 23:52
Some locks are difficult to shim because the locking dog travels in an arc rather than simply retracting along a horizontal axis. Here's an image of what i'm talking about:
Usually the tolerances are crappy enough that if you were to find a way to push the locking dog out of the way, it'd open.
There's a second design that's commonly used for combination padlocks that you can see on: http://www.howstuffworks.com/inside-lock.htm .
There's a method that reduces the number down to ~100 or so that you could try (find it by using your google-fu skills  .)
You could also turn it into a cut away.
P.S.: I didn't make the model used in the screen capture I took, I found the model in the samples directory of the program.
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by raimundo » 27 Mar 2008 8:30
the one in the illustration seems to look like the kind where the shim goes right into the hole in the brass fence. there is a coil spring not shown inside that brass. Note that the locking dog is pictured as a steel color, to contrast with the brass fence it goes into.
Just picking a nit.
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by Safety0ff » 27 Mar 2008 11:31
raimundo wrote:the one in the illustration seems to look like the kind where the shim goes right into the hole in the brass fence. there is a coil spring not shown inside that brass. Note that the locking dog is pictured as a steel color, to contrast with the brass fence it goes into.
The front view, with brass fence set to transparent, with the dial and casing set to invisible.

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by Safety0ff » 27 Mar 2008 11:35
Sorry for the double post.
You are correct, and this second image show much better how shimming works. PLease note that the locking dog and the pivot are independant parts. The model is stuck like that better of the way they made it and i'm too lazy to go back and edit the model to correct this.
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by freakparade3 » 27 Mar 2008 12:11
If you look at the picture Safetyoff posted you will see where the gates are. If you drill a 3/32 hold in that spot on the lock you can use a thin wire to feel the gates. Line up all 3 and the lock opens. You can then look into the shackle hole to determine the combo of the lock. Tap the hole you drilled, insert a screw, then grind the head off.
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by Safety0ff » 27 Mar 2008 12:34
freakparade3 wrote:If you look at the picture Safetyoff posted you will see where the gates are. If you drill a 3/32 hold in that spot on the lock you can use a thin wire to feel the gates. Line up all 3 and the lock opens. You can then look into the shackle hole to determine the combo of the lock. Tap the hole you drilled, insert a screw, then grind the head off.
IF you're drilling you might as well do the following and attack the locking dog (I was going to drill it out if necessary but I could just push it out of the way the same way a shim would,) note that if you're drilling from the back certain areas will be blocked by thicker metal and the outter cassing.

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by Safety0ff » 27 Mar 2008 12:48
Sorry for another double post;
Once you get the shackle open it gives you a good spot to peek into the lock to see the gates (on most locks.)
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by construct30 » 27 Mar 2008 16:08
If you look at the picture safetyoff has listed in the link of howstuffworks, that looks just like the lock I have only it says slaymaker on the dial and on the back it say made in the USA. It is even blue and has the same number arrangement.
thanks for all the posts. I think maybe the arc thing is the problem with shimming. I get the sim in and it will bend rather than release the catch. I tried shoving it straight in the top, but it is too tight and won't go in.
Oh by the way it is on a cabinet in the garage, lost the combo, my mind never could remember numbers, I go keyed now mostly, but I do like a combo lock when I don't have my keys with me. I do construction, and plumbing work, keep certain things locked from kids.
I can't feel anything except in one spot and one other gets tight when pulling, it is strange, maybe worn out.
thanks again
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