Hints and tricks for impressioning?

[PickPick]

Hi everyone,

Right now I'm trying to compile a list of impressioning facts and techniques that go beyond the basic insert key - wiggle/pull/tap - see marks - file. You know, the little things and details that you don't find in books but pick up along the way while learning and progressing (but no untested "this might work"-ideas, please).

For example:

- rubbing your blank with fine steel wool beforing taking marks gives you a very nice surface finish

- when using universal keyblanks for euro locks, marks often appear at the side/corner of the blank, not on top

- I feel somewhat embarassed for getting it wrong the first time, but: When you're impressioning a dimple lock, that has pins riding on the side of the key you really shouldn't try to jiggle the keyblank in that axis (perpendicular to the face of the blank). It'll probably give you pretty good marks when you jiggle it that way but you can't see them until you remove the snapped off half of your blank from the lock. No matter where the pins are, jiggle/move parallel to the face of the blank.


Now it's your turn Technical tips, lock characteristics, little shortcuts, whatever...

[freakparade3]

There is a sticky on impresioning here. I did a guide a few months back as well but I can't find it now. I'll keep looking.

One method I recently thought of for beginners is to use space and depth keys if you have them. For a beginner it's a great way to get the proper technique. After you file and mark the blank, clamp it to the next lower depth key and file until it's even, repeat until you have a working key. You still need ot know how to read the marks, but it takes some of the guesswork out of how deep to file each time.

freakparade3

[hydruh]

I learned at DefCon 15 how to use metallic tape, but I completely forgot. I had ... consumed a few adult beverages Anyway, it was very slick, and I don't remember at ALL how it worked.

Was anyone there for that? Or is that a common tool and I am just a n00b?

S

[bumber]

I learned at DefCon 15 how to use metallic tape, but I completely forgot. I had ... consumed a few adult beverages Anyway, it was very slick, and I don't remember at ALL how it worked.

Was anyone there for that? Or is that a common tool and I am just a n00b?

S

I think thats what everyone refers to as the 'foil' method, I know a few guys here use the foil method anyway...

[PickPick]

@freakparade: Yes, I know that sticky and it's really fine. But it covers the basic process mostly and is stretched out over 9 pages or so. Also I feel that it's targeted mainly at beginners. What I'd like to compile is the stuff that's beyond basics and maybe doesn't even apply to every lock that's out there. If your guide covers some of that I'd love to see it

As for the depth keys, I think it's better to take a space/depth chart, a caliper and then measure how deep a certain number of file strokes gets you on a particular blank. This way you learn how to get to the correct depth as well but you don't need a different set of keys for every make of lock.

@hydruh/bumber: Foil impressioning is a nice technique but I don't think it fits here. I'd like this to be about normal impressioning, which is a controlled process. Foil impressioning unfortunately isn't.

[maxxed]

When haveing trouble getting a mark try applying turning preasure then work the key in a circular pattern rather than straight up and down
Also try filing off center, some locks will show marks better if you file the key so that pins or wafers are contacting the side of the cut that you are fileing

[Raymond]

1. When preparing the keyblank, I do not want a slick, smooth, shiny surface. I would rather have a uniform but rough surface. I usually get this "patterned" surface by using my impressioning file sideways at the base to file away the plating on the blank.

2. When impressioning wafer locks, expect the marks to be on the outside of the blank edges. Especially on used locks, the key has worn a curved area onto the wafers.

3. Rember which locks turn both ways and do both sides. The pins come back to the normal state (reset) as your turning the key passes from one side to the other.

4. On any lock with a thumb turn (like old Fords and non-sidebar Chryslers), use the thumbturn to apply the pressure and just wiggle the key.

5. Depth keys may work but do not depend on them for anything but spacing. The lock may have been pinned with non-factory length pins.

[globallockytoo]

1. When preparing the keyblank, I do not want a slick, smooth, shiny surface. I would rather have a uniform but rough surface. I usually get this "patterned" surface by using my impressioning file sideways at the base to file away the plating on the blank.

2. When impressioning wafer locks, expect the marks to be on the outside of the blank edges. Especially on used locks, the key has worn a curved area onto the wafers.

3. Rember which locks turn both ways and do both sides. The pins come back to the normal state (reset) as your turning the key passes from one side to the other.

4. On any lock with a thumb turn (like old Fords and non-sidebar Chryslers), use the thumbturn to apply the pressure and just wiggle the key.

5. Depth keys may work but do not depend on them for anything but spacing. The lock may have been pinned with non-factory length pins.

definitely the 5 single best pieces of advice. Well done Ray

[Jimmie]

if you use a small vice grip ... cut out a V cut in the blank key handle ...

insert this V cut in the cutting vice jaws

this will help you to avoid lateral movements of the blank when jiggling

if you don't have a spaces and depths chart and you're 'blind" impressioning ... it is sometimes difficult to find out the right pin spaces ... use a 400 sand paper grade to mirror polish the blank blade or use a black marker or a black eye liner (yes !! it works) to blacken the blank blade

*** for those who don't know me ... I don't use to have eye liner in my purse or my pocket !! lol !!

[serpih]

Sorry about my English but i'm posting to get access to the advanced locks section, so don't insult me about my English please.

So, i have started impressionism with a steel key blanc, it is almost impossible to read marks on it.

I let it down for a while, and one day i remember something i have heard or something i have read somewhere this
- to make marks visible I should transform the contact area with pins in some kind of blade.

application

[Safety0ff]

Sorry about my English... ...don't insult me about my English please.

I hope people have enough respect not to insult you, come as you are. Quintaux even leaves a copy of the french version of his posts ( Ce n'est pas necessaire, mais s'il y a des erreurs de traduction il est possible que les membres bi-lingues repairent le sens.)

I let it down for a while, and one day i remember something i have heard or something i have read somewhere this
- to make marks visible I should transform the contact area with pins in some kind of blade.

Just trying to show the concept a little better (the dotted line and change in color are to show where the slope begins) :

[Eyes_Only]

I like to use a emery board (for filing and shaping your finger nails) to dress the key blade. They usually have a rough grit on one side to take out most of the imperfections and a more fine grit on the other to give it a nice smooth and flat finish so you can see the impressioning marks better.

And a good file is important. Using most files they sell at hardware stores can complicate things cos they leave a more rough cut marks on the key making it harder to distinguish the real marks from false ones. A fine round swiss file has always worked for me.

[raimundo]

impressioning on steel blanks is not a good idea if you can get brass blanks, brass is the usual material for impressioning keys, the nickel silver type blanks are harder to impress, and probably a good idea to make the knife edge. as for steel blanks, Ive never done it. I wouldn't want to try. the pins in the lock are probably brass, steel cuts brass, so it would be very hard for the brass pins to impression on the steel blank, the only exception being on a very thinned edge.