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BEST Lock brand??

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
Forum rules
Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

BEST Lock brand??

Postby maya » 31 Aug 2003 14:33

Does anyone know about these types of locks. They are several here at work and they look very old but I tell you this I can't pick them. They are solid and look like brass. They aren't made like master locks. So does anyone know?? Thanks :?:
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Postby n00by » 31 Aug 2003 15:10

More information would be nice. :)
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Postby maya » 4 Sep 2003 18:40

Yeh, removable core. I can pick most master locks but I have trouble with the ones that have last pin set low and the next very high. Maybe the one I am trying to pick has the same. I will keep trying. Thanks for the info!!
maya
 
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Postby beginner picker » 4 Sep 2003 19:20

does anyone know of a good begginer padlock thatcan have some pins removed i live near a true value , walmart , and meijers any help would be appriciated
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Postby beginner picker » 5 Sep 2003 20:37

do u know a store i could get one at
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Rip Rip Rip

Postby GrodyCody » 15 Oct 2003 17:33

I can just rip out the entire cylinder of best locks. by the way they have 7 pins - iv only actually picked a couple - good luck
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sdf

Postby Bitter Man » 15 Oct 2003 21:32

I dont think there are many rekeyable padlocks out there in which you can remove the pins. If you want to do that, go out and buy a cheap lock cylander and then use a plug follower or a dowel to remove some of the pins. A detailed explanation of how to do that can be found in the practice lock section of "The Complete Guide to lock picking" by eddie the wire. If you dont have a copy of that lying around, we can try and describe it in words but its not really easy to describe. If ure just looking for a good practice lock, a cheap master lock will do fine. Those brass ones are actually pretty easy.
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Postby Varjeal » 15 Oct 2003 22:39

There are two brands in particular that make rekeyable padlocks.

1. Amercian padlocks, in particular the 1105 series, have removable cylinders, you will need to make or buy a plug follower for these locks, but they are easily rekeyable.

2. Master Lock makes several lines of rekeyable padlocks.

Both types that are rekeyable can be identified by looking at the bottom of the padlock. If you see a seperate plate around the keyway of the lock, then it is a rekeyable padlock. The cylinders in either of these brands can be removed by opening the padlock. In the hole that the hasp went into you will see the head of either an Allen or phillips screw. Loosen this off completely, and the cylinder will fall out the bottom of the lock.

Then use Bitter Man's instructions and use a plug follower (homemade or bought) to remove the plug and then you can dump out, and/or re arrange the cylinder however you want to practice on it.

If you need more details, pm or MSN me and I'll give ya a more indepth description.

Hope this helps.
*insert witty comment here*
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Postby Varjeal » 15 Oct 2003 22:41

.......and I still can't wait to read how Best cores are ripped out of a lock with a single pick.
*insert witty comment here*
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Postby n00by » 16 Oct 2003 0:12

Hey, I was thinking about getting an American padlock 1105 series because of the removable cylinder. Would homedepot have these type of locks? And as you can see I am a newbie so this is a dumb question but what is a plug follower and why would you need one of these?
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sdfsd

Postby Bitter Man » 16 Oct 2003 5:39

After you remove the retention screw for a cylander, and start pulling the cylander out, the key pins are all inside the cylander while the driver (upper) pins and spring are all in the body of the lock. The cylander is the only thing resisting the spring force that is trying to push the pins out of the lock body. Once you remove the cylander, all the driver pins and springs will just fall out into the space where the cylander went and might jam things or you might lose them. A plug follower is a solid thing you push the cylander out with and use it to take the cylanders place in holding the upper pins and springs in the lock body. You remove the plug follower a little at a time, getting each spring and pin individualy and keeping track of which place it went in.
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Postby Varjeal » 16 Oct 2003 12:04

nOOby. I'm not sure if home depot would have these, but it wouldn't hurt to check and/or call. You'll need a phillips screwdriver to remove the retaining screw.

Here's another slant on the description for plug removal.

Once you have the cylinder in your hand, you'll need to remove the "c" clip on the back of the cylinder. You can use a small flat screwdriver to do that. Make sure you don't loose it, though. :roll:

You will then need a plug follower which is the same diameter of the BACK of the plug. It will have to have a slot cut into the end so it "mates" with the end of the plug. The follower can be either tube or solid. (I have custom made brass ones and they're solid).

Next, put in the correct key, and turn it an 1/8th turn (either way doesn't matter) Put the follower up against the back of the cylinder, making sure it is mated flush with the plug. Then, SLOWLY and gently push the shell onto the plug follower. Be careful not to dump the top pins and springs and be careful not to dump the bottom pins which will remain in the plug if you don't turn it too far.

At this point it then depends on what you want to do. If you choose to remove pins from the plug, you'll have to dump the associated top pin and spring as well or you will jam up the lock.

Feel free to post here if you have any further questions.

Hope it helps.
*insert witty comment here*
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Postby n00by » 16 Oct 2003 14:00

Thanks guys. :)
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Postby Chucklz » 4 Nov 2003 18:37

Wow, So much to say here, even though it is my first post at this group.

1.) Best makes (made) more than just 7 pin IC locks. 5 and 6 Pin IC cores are still floating around pretty much everywhere.

2.) The locks in question were described as old. I have noticed a funny thing with these locks, and I'm sure many of you may have noticed the same; as these locks age, or are used heavily, they often become much harder to pick. I have no specific reason for why this occurs, I suspect that a lack of lubrication and spring wear may be to blame.

3.) Picking these locks can be highly keyway dependent. Some keyways, eg, A, G, E etc... allow for lots of pick room, while some keyways, especially the newer paracentric patented keyway offer very little pick room.

4.) Best ICs can be some of the toughest non-high security locks to pick. Some pick easily, especially if they have a cheaper nockoff IC core in them. But, in general they are quite tough dogs indeed.

Don't let all of this get you disheartened though. There are no specific high security features in the locks you have. This means no sidebars, no pin in pins, no spool or mushroom pins (Factory Keyed locks after 2000 may contain spool pins though). Theres an almost certain chance that they locks were master keyed, so you have that working for you, and of course my personal favorite..... there are two shear lines. One for operation, and one control (core removal).
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Postby Varjeal » 5 Nov 2003 23:27

In fact, if the lock has been master keyed you have at least THREE shear lines. 8)

I've only had an opportunity to pick a couple of these locks, and though I was successful at all, they seemed extremely difficult. I'm not sure if it was due to how dirty they were, my mental state of thinking how difficult they were going to be, or something to do with the actual mechanics. Regardless, they are probably not a beginner's lock to start on.
8)
*insert witty comment here*
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