Lock specific lubricants

[vap0r]

Who has the down low on these? I was recently given some old locks that are in need of some 'grease' to say the least. I've heard wd40 is not good to use on locks for some reason, what else do you guys use?

This is not specifically for bumping, or picking, just to get the lock functioning normally so that I the plug and pins aren't sticking and such.

[Jaakko]

A drop or two of gun oil or a puff of graphite.

[Safety0ff]

I've used brake cleaner to clean them then use a dry lubricant localy availabe.

I look for keywords such as:

- PTFE
- Telfon
- CERFLON

These are better lubricants than graphite (which works fine as well,) other key words I look for:

- Leaves no oily residue.
etc...

The one thing I don't like about graphite is that sometimes there's big chunks.

[arris]

assa lock spray

or graphite for old lever locks

[vitti]

another downside to graphite is that if you accidentally put too much in the lock by having the tube at a sharp angle when you give it a healthy puff... you can't get the key in the lock anymore. Not that that's ever happened to me or anything

A quick blast of canned air fixes the problem but other lubes don't present such a problem to start with. Of course if you managed to pull this off then odds are you can mess it up with other lubes as well.

[freakparade3]

KY, Wait....... What forum is this?

[paulvalente]

+1 Vitti, I did exactly that the other day!

I find that flushing the lock out with some brake cleaner and then a few drops of light oil works brilliantly.

[raimundo]

shrub used to go nuts when someone mentioned WD40, actually, wd40 is a penetrating oil used to unstick rusted nuts and such, its not an actual long term lubricant. It will be very effective on flushing out stuck locks that have old lubricant in them. in fact, it will rewet dried lube gunk and make it lube again, at least long enough to get it moved.

There are some locks that have been really screwed up with too much lubricant, this is an indication of someone with a fixation on the lock and OCD (obsessivecompulsivedisorder). Locks have a mystique, people trust them but don't understand them, yet they are important and symbolic in many lives. For example a maintainence guy who dosen's know locks but thinks regular lubrication is a panacea against any problems.

[WOT]

I've used brake cleaner to clean them then use a dry lubricant localy availabe.

Brake cleaner is a very aggressive solvent and it attacks some plastic and painted surface. The Paslode pneumatic tool cleaner is very good. It's pure heptane pressurized by CO2.

It's basically the same as an electronic cleaner, however I don't think the purity is as high, which is not a big deal for locks/general machinery It dissolves oil and flush out effectively but doesn't attack plastic/rubber/paint. An extra tall 12oz can is $6 or so at Home Depot.

I look for keywords such as:

- PTFE
- Telfon
- CERFLON

These are better lubricants than graphite (which works fine as well,) other key words I look for:

- Leaves no oily residue.
etc...

The one thing I don't like about graphite is that sometimes there's big chunks.

They're definitely cleaner than graphite. Lowe's used to sell Synco Dri-Lube.

The Medeco KeyLube is the same thing sold under their private label.

Medeco KeyLube MSDS does show it is made by Synco.
http://www.medeco.com/products/pdfs/Med ... onMSDS.pdf

Synco Dri-Lube
http://www.super-lube.com/pdf/msds_Dri_Film_Aerosol.pdf

The Blaster Dry Lube (TDL) is a good commonly available alternative. It is a suspension of PTFE powder in heptane, which is safe on plastics and a 10 oz can is like $5 at Home Depot/Lowe's.

I would avoid the Liquid Wrench/Gunk brand Dry Lube as its alcohol based solvent is more aggressive on paint, plastic and ink.

[WOT]

Actually, the TDL's solvent is n-hexane. It's more volatile than heptane, so it dries faster. Unfortunately, it's also more toxic than heptane.

[J-Hood]

Graphite = stuck pins. They don't spin when the key enters and then they wear premature. If you want to screw your customer or yourself by shortening the life of the lock then by all means use graphite. I know it is great if used properly but that involves taking the lock apart and lightly dusting the cyl with a tiny brush that has been dipped in graphite and then knock clean of extra. So far nobody has suggested that and in fact all graphite comments included the "puff" method which is about 1000x more than is needed or healthy. Graphite also traps water and in turn freezes, so if you are shady and want frozen lock calls go ahead and use it.

WD40 is a water displacer (Water Displacer #40) and cleaner which works fine and can be applied in excess (which is how most lubricants are applies) without ill effects as long as it is not being applied to something with an anti corrosive finish(that silvery gold finish) like panic hardware or a 3 point locking door (Pella, Marvin, Anderson) because it will eat the finish and turn it into goo. When the WD40 dries it does get a bit sticky but a twice a year dose will do just fine as well as put a little oil seal on the wood in the door.

Given my choice I would go with the Tri-Flo or simular lube but I usually need a cleaner to get all the graphite out so out comes the WD40. At that point I leave it alone and suggest TriFlo in about 2 months or WD40 bi-annually. I just don't think any lube is going to be any good after a dose of any of the cleaners mentioned, so given the options of corrosives or wd40...

Jason

[WOT]

Medeco, KABA and Best Access Systems recommends LPS-1 and all except Best also recommends PoxyLube.

LPS-1, PoxyLube and Synco Dri-lube are all based on PTFE particles suspended in volatile solvent and I figure manufacturers know what they're talking about.

Tri-flow is based on solvent diluted oil and PTFE particles, so it still attracts dirt unlike dry lubricants.

[Squelchtone]

Has anyone mentioned Locksaver spray? OMGZ it's so good.

expensive but, I've used it and locks work so well it's like you jammed a stick of butter in them.

http://www.mil-comm.com/lock_lubricants.html




I give this product an A+

Squelchtone

[Eyes_Only]

A lot of automotive locksmiths I hear likes to use something called Ballistol. I've never tried it myself yet, just bought one off of eBay and waiting for it to get here so I can try it out at work and see if this stuff will be good enough to cure my shop of its almost religious fixation to WD-40.

[robotmaxtron]

Has anyone mentioned Locksaver spray? OMGZ it's so good.

expensive but, I've used it and locks work so well it's like you jammed a stick of butter in them.

http://www.mil-comm.com/lock_lubricants.html




I give this product an A+

Squelchtone

At the shop i just got hired at my boss only uses Locksaver. He was also telling me that here in the south texas area the graphite has a tendency to get gunky in locks due to the humidity.