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A torque/tension question.

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
Forum rules
Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

A torque/tension question.

Postby mart1n » 23 May 2008 13:52

I've recently moved up to picking locks with security pins after practicing with non-security pins for a couple weeks now. I picked up a good ol' master 140. I've been able to open this lock 3 times, but I can't open it consistently or even close to consistently.

My question is about proper torque in a specific situation. With my other locks (master #1, #3, #5 and some cheap generics) I use just the lightest possible amount of tension. With my master 140 the plug will turn a few degrees when I use light to moderate tension, but it's more tension than I'm use to using to open my other locks.

My question is should I be providing enough tension to turn the plug as far as it goes before starting picking or should I provide just feather light tension like I do with my other locks even though if I provide more tension the plug rotates a little more? It's almost like the plug is a little loose in this lock.

The plugs in my other locks do not rotate at all before picking, regardless of the amount of tension. With my 140 it rotates quite a bit without any picking and I can see the pins bind up...like I mentioned the plug seems loose. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks!
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Postby _ » 23 May 2008 14:43

Master #140. I believe that lock has security pins. You can use medium tension to get the first couple sets, but once the plug spins slightly (about 10 degrees), you will need to use light tension for setting the spool pins. If you weren't aware that your lock had spool pins, I recommend reading about how to deal with them.
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Postby mart1n » 23 May 2008 15:12

_ wrote:Master #140. I believe that lock has security pins. You can use medium tension to get the first couple sets, but once the plug spins slightly (about 10 degrees), you will need to use light tension for setting the spool pins. If you weren't aware that your lock had spool pins, I recommend reading about how to deal with them.


Yup, I'm aware the lock has spool pins. I've seen different people claim different amounts of spool pins. I've heard everything from one spool pin to three spool pins.
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Postby StabbyJoe » 23 May 2008 15:14

I'd say turn the plug until it is stopped by the pins and go with light tension.
When a pin binds it is stopping the plug from turning.. so if you still have turning room, you won't have a binding pin (or so logic would say).
Light tension for the security pins, feel for the reversing effect on the plug and take it all nice and slow. :D

Good luck.
All your locks are belong to us.
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Postby grv575 » 24 May 2008 0:03

You don't need a ton of tension. Too little tension and you won't bind anything - the plug does need to turn and bind something. Too much and the only result really is that the pin you try to push up won't budge. So lighten up a little and you'll see now it does move up - adjust the amount of tension and you'll learn the right amount for the lock you're working with.
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stuck tensors

Postby raimundo » 24 May 2008 8:22

you should have tensors with several small variations in the width of the blade, there are various different metal strips in windshield wipers, the different models have different size metal strips, all the strips are useful for one or another lp101 project.

If your tensor is not loose enough to fall out of the lock after a bit of picking, its binding, against the immobile cylinder wall and grounding all that tension uselessly. find a tensor that fits so that it does not bind in the core.

If you have been practice picking and the tensor was binding, you may have a groove in the cylinder wall eroded by the tensor, this will create a problem for picking.

A tensor can be made to fit by adding a small roller bearing that will keep it from binding. you will have to conduct your own experiments on this, as each lock and tensor will be different
Wake up and smell the Kafka!!!
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Postby Gordon Airporte » 26 May 2008 12:37

There are two ways to tackle spool pins.

1. Pick with normal tension until you get a false set, where the cylinder turns noticeably a degree or so the stops again when the shear line hits the dug out portion of the spools. You can take a break here, take the pick out, lock down on tension - just make sure you don't lose the set on any of the pins. Now go back in and take care of the spools by testing each pin and setting the spools.

2. Pick with extra light tension so everything kind of 'floats', just barely setting. The same thing happens as above, but tension is so light that you don't really notice the false set or the spools setting all the way.

In my experience, using the first method is much easier for a beginner, then once you get the feel of it you can start trying the second method.
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