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tension wrench position

Picked all the easy locks and want to step up your game? Further your lock picking techniques, exchange pro tips, videos, lessons, and develop your skills here.

tension wrench position

Postby notillr » 19 Jun 2008 1:25

On common pin locks, do you tension from the bottom of the keyway or in front of the pins? I've been putting the wrench in the bottom, but it is tricky to work over it. Also, there is a bit of a bind from the bottom that would be relieved by being over the centerline of the turn.

Is it customary to wrench from in front of the pins? Is it easy to knock it out when you rake the pins? Would one want to rake with it in the bottom, then switch positions with a second wrench?
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Postby digital_blue » 19 Jun 2008 6:51

Simple answer: You do what works.

Different keyways and different picking styles will dictate what is most effective. It's really a trial an error thing.

For instance... when I'm picking a Schlage, I *always* tension at the bottom in a counter clockwise direction. However, Kwikset or Weiser it's still at the bottom, but clockwise. Why? Because that's how I find the wrench sits nicely. I have several Yales that I prefer to tension from the top in a counter clockwise direction. If I try that same lock tensioning clockwise, the wrench slips around too much.

It really just boils down to a combination of experience, and a willingness to play around and see what works for you. There's no right answer in this case.

Cheers,

db
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Re: tensiotin wrench position

Postby Wrenchman » 19 Jun 2008 7:27

notillr wrote:Would one want to rake with it in the bottom, then switch positions with a second wrench?

Simple answer: Yes

:D

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The first thing that you should do is check to make sure that
the lock is your's and secondly make sure its not in use.
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Postby Afisch » 19 Jun 2008 11:24

I tend to rake with the wrench at the bottom and SPP with the wrench at the top as it allows more room.
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Postby ToolyMcgee » 20 Jun 2008 0:45

Whatever gives you feedback on a peticular lock is the way you want to go. Have several wrenchs. Proper pick feedback is essential to good pin tension. Half my pocket case is wrenchs, the other half is hooks, a small snake, and some bogota's. Different sizes of course. If you keep knocking the wrench out of the top, then try getting Falle style wrenches. They accomodate bigger tools and give counter tension control if made right. Switch wrenches, pick in reverse directions, try different techniques untill you get the proper feedback to "see" inside the lock. That's my two cents.
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Postby Archive555 » 20 Jun 2008 18:15

I agree with DB, do what feels best to you.

I usually place my wrench in the bottom of most of my locks when I pick them, but my back-door lock is upside-down, so I place it infront of the pins, so that it doesn't slip around.

Do what works.
[deadlink]http://img383.imageshack.us/img383/9965/sigjd3.png[/img]
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Postby apb » 20 Jun 2008 19:21

I think both methods have their use depending on the lock. What works best for me has been top tension in front of the pins though. There are three reasons for this:

1) More room to work with the pick in the key way to avoid setting or unsetting pins. Also more room to focus on individual security pins that have been falsely set.

2) The plug gains more of an equal centrifigal force which equallly distributes rotation around the edges of the plug. It acts more like the axel for a wheel than tugging on a specific side. This seems to be effective in setting pins at the shear line with less tension.

3)it can eliminate a tension wrench that puts a brake on the plug.

However, some locks are raked much more easier with the tension at the bottom, and other times it doesn't seem to matter.
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Postby hydruh » 20 Jun 2008 20:48

I have never, ever been able to make top tensio work, but this site has inspired me to make a modified tension wrench and try it. I think I am just too heavy handed.

Those that do use top tension - you to use a modified (shorter) wrench?

S
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Postby apb » 20 Jun 2008 22:53

hydruh wrote:I have never, ever been able to make top tensio work, but this site has inspired me to make a modified tension wrench and try it. I think I am just too heavy handed.

Those that do use top tension - you to use a modified (shorter) wrench?

S


http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm26 ... C01004.jpg

This is what I've gone with and had some good success. The top one is a bobby pin snapped off to fit a keyway so that the handle rest flush against the face on the lock without sticking out. If I remember, this was used in the DVD Lockpicking for the new Millenium. So far this has worked better than any other wrench (for top tension) I've used. I have not used the falle wrench, but have used the two pronged type without as much luck. The bottom wrench in the picture is just a thin bent wiper blade. The bobby pin is rigid and works well against security pins, not to mention they're everywhere. They also last for quite some time. I had one that held up for months picking American 5200's until I lost it. It is possible touse a regular tension wrench for top tension if you can get used to it sticking out away from the keyway. Somework better than others in that respect if the tip rests nice and even across the first pin.
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Postby Afisch » 21 Jun 2008 5:51

I bent the base of my small southord wrench its about 3mm long and 2 wide. Fits the top section of the rim cylinder keyways well.

If you were to put a twist in the wrench at the top of the keyway you would have to make sure it was low on the wrench to avoid it pressing on the lock face, worth concidering if you find yourself heavy handed. I think you lose alot of feedback that way however.
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Postby hydruh » 21 Jun 2008 11:53

apb wrote:
hydruh wrote:This is what I've gone with and had some good success. The top one is a bobby pin snapped off to fit a keyway so that the handle rest flush against the face on the lock without sticking out. If I remember, this was used in the DVD Lockpicking for the new Millenium. So far this has worked better than any other wrench (for top tension) I've used. I have not used the falle wrench, but have used the two pronged type without as much luck. The bottom wrench in the picture is just a thin bent wiper blade. The bobby pin is rigid and works well against security pins, not to mention they're everywhere. They also last for quite some time. I had one that held up for months picking American 5200's until I lost it. It is possible touse a regular tension wrench for top tension if you can get used to it sticking out away from the keyway. Somework better than others in that respect if the tip rests nice and even across the first pin.


Hey, APB, those are pretty nice. I want to take a try at making a Falle style, because I think it will fit in well with my picking style, but these are both nice too, especially the second. Thanks for the pics!

S
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Postby Bandit_b » 22 Jun 2008 7:47

You just have to experiment a little bit until you find what's best for you.

I usually put the pick above the pins because I feel more comfortable like that, and when I put it in front of the pins it tends to fall out a lot :D
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Postby NoZen » 22 Jun 2008 14:36

I'm with apb on placing the tension wrench in front of the pins... have never been able to get "bottom" (opposite of pins) placement to work. I assume that's because it's farther from the center of rotation so some of the force goes to pushing the cylinder off to the side instead of rotating it.

The Peterson "Flat 5" tension tools all have one end short; short end usually doesn't hit the first pin even when inserted all the way. I tend to use the LAB ones more often because they're stiffer... those do hit the first pin if you stick 'em in all the way but they seem to grab fine when not in all the way.
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Postby StabbyJoe » 25 Jun 2008 22:31

I used to bottom tension whenever the warding wasn't too obtrusive, or something like that.. but now I usually top tension, except for raking. I just prefer it, and i like having a wrench that fits everything so well... I love my current wrench... looks a bit messed (bottom tension bit with 90* bend, then a 90* twist... then another 90* twist, a 90* bend and the top tension bit... it's so small it's almost non-existent under the twist) but it works great

Definately agree with db on the whole do what works thing ^^,
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