Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.
by vrocco » 18 Jun 2008 21:49
I have a couple of SFIC cores that I am going to repin and use. I dumped all the pins and springs, but there seems to be some gunk and dirt buildup in the locks. They still operate fine, but I thought while I had them all empty it might be a good idea to clean them up a bit.
How do you clean up empty cores before repinning them? What products, materials, techniques do you use?
Thanks!
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by hydruh » 18 Jun 2008 22:05
Funny, I was wondering about that too. I have a buncha Best cores left over from a project and everal need cleaning.
S
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by Raymond » 18 Jun 2008 23:32
Try putting them in your dishwasher when your wife isn't looking. 
Nothing is foolproof to a talented fool. Wisdom is not just in determining how to do something, but also includes determining whether it should be done at all.
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by keysman » 18 Jun 2008 23:47
My personal favorite is to flush them with WD40 until it runs clear .. then blow them out with compressed air ( can of computer air )
Graphite is the recommened lube according to BEST, personally I like powdered teflon .. much cleaner
Everyone who eats potatoes eventually dies. Therefore potatoes are poisonous.
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by criminalhate » 19 Jun 2008 0:29
Kerosene or gasoline are pretty good at cleaning the gunk out. just put some in a bucket or bowl and shake it around to get it into the lock it should wash out all the built up gunk.
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by jpb06080 » 19 Jun 2008 0:33
criminalhate wrote:Kerosene or gasoline are pretty good at cleaning the gunk out. just put some in a bucket or bowl and shake it around to get it into the lock it should wash out all the built up gunk.
Don't smoke while you clean with this method.
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by criminalhate » 19 Jun 2008 0:38
I would hope thats obvious =)
Also do it outside so if you spill some you don't have to clean up as big of a mess.
Also for doing 1 or 2 you can use a can of brake clean to spray out some of the gunk.
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by freakparade3 » 19 Jun 2008 7:40
criminalhate wrote:I would hope thats obvious =)
Also do it outside so if you spill some you don't have to clean up as big of a mess.
Also for doing 1 or 2 you can use a can of brake clean to spray out some of the gunk.
One thing I have learned in my time on earth is this...... NOTHING is obvious to a determined redneck. 
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by WOT » 19 Jun 2008 17:53
vrocco wrote:I have a couple of SFIC cores that I am going to repin and use. I dumped all the pins and springs, but there seems to be some gunk and dirt buildup in the locks. They still operate fine, but I thought while I had them all empty it might be a good idea to clean them up a bit.
How do you clean up empty cores before repinning them? What products, materials, techniques do you use?
Thanks!
Put it in a wide lid gatorade bottle and add just enough odorless mineral spirit (you can use cheap paint thinner, but you're gonna regret the smell) to immerse the core. Cap and agitate.
You can do a few at once, but if you've got one that you really ought to clean, only put one at a time and agitate vigorously.
You actually get quite a bit of powdered brass and if used, graphite settle out on the bottom of solvent.
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by WOT » 19 Jun 2008 18:01
keysman wrote:My personal favorite is to flush them with WD40 until it runs clear .. then blow them out with compressed air ( can of computer air )
Graphite is the recommened lube according to BEST, personally I like powdered teflon .. much cleaner
Best also recommends LPS1, which is PTFE based dry lube.
You can safely substitute LPS1 with with Poxylube, Dri-Lube or TDL(available from Home Depot). These are all PTFE (generic name for Teflon) suspended in a highly volatile carrier that evaporates completely. I think it permeates better and easier to dose than powder.
I like Pasco pneumatic air tool cleaner (again from HD) for all metal degreasing applications that require a plastic and elastomer safe solution, but you can use the TDL lube as the flushing solvent too.
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by maxxx » 28 Jun 2008 18:00
Carburetor/Throttle body aerosol spray works best for me. It evaporates with no residue, and takes a few seconds.
I watch the chain store auto parts sale flyers. Kragen/Checker sells them for a buck a can sometimes.
Chemtool is another brand name of the same stuff, but rarely goes on sale.
Wear a rubber glove on one hand (ala Mikey Jackson) and give it a squirt, then a blast of compressed air for cleaning electronics.
For lube I use tri-flow, or sili-kroil.
I haven't used graphite since I had a call from a lady locked in her apt. (dbl cyl deadbolt). Problem was she had a key cut recently at the local handy monkey place and their stylus was out of register. They cut almost 1/16 deeper toward the bow. I tried to save her some money by making her a new key, but she wanted a new deadbolt.
When I pulled the screws out of the deadbolt and pulled it apart, a couple of teaspoons of graphite spilled out on the carpet. (In swing door) Someone had squirted a whole tube of graphite into the lock over time. That was fun.
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by maintenanceguy » 28 Jun 2008 18:55
break parts cleaner of electrical contact cleaner.
Both in aerosol cans, both come with a tube for a tight stream into the keyway. Both will dissolve just about anything and both evaporate away completely within a few minutes.
In fact, I've wondered if they're the same thing just in different packaging.
-Ryan Maintenanceguy
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by criminalhate » 28 Jun 2008 20:28
maintenanceguy wrote: I've wondered if they're the same thing just in different packaging.
When I worked in a machanic shop we had both things on the self when the days were really boring I would read the MSDS on the items we kept on hand (some days were really boring). The active ingredients in both of the products we stocked were the same there was a few different ingredients but it was more minor. I believe the brake clean had some chemical better to removing oils/grease were electronic cleaner had some better for corrosion. But we used brake cleaner on every electrical component unless we were afraid of destroying some strange plastics.
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by Beyond » 28 Jun 2008 22:01
maxxx wrote:Carburetor/Throttle body aerosol spray works best for me. It evaporates with no residue, and takes a few seconds.
I watch the chain store auto parts sale flyers. Kragen/Checker sells them for a buck a can sometimes.
I thought I was the only one out there.... For lube I use tri-flow, or sili-kroil.
You're like my long lost brother....
Seriously, this man has nailed the BEST for BEST for cleaning and lubrication.
I'm impressed.
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by maintenanceguy » 29 Jun 2008 13:05
criminalhate wrote:When I worked in a machanic shop we had both things on the self when the days were really boring I would read the MSDS on the items we kept on hand...
Wow. That's bored.
-Ryan Maintenanceguy
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