When it comes down to it there is nothing better than manual tools for your Lock pick Set, whether they be retail, homebrew, macgyver style. DIY'ers look here.
by vitti » 20 May 2008 0:10
Comp, there's two issues with that approach.
First, hacksaw blades are not easy to drill through. I searched and searched and burned up a handful of various drill bits before I found one that could consistently drill through the blades I use (Stanley brand). I finally arrived at Dewalt Split Point Titanium Coated bits. Other titanium bits couldn't even make a depression in the metal, the split point is the only variable so I assume it made the difference. I also tried cobalt bits with no success. This was all done on a drill press and oil lubrication. After about $25 in destroyed drill bits I was beginning to think it couldn't be done with conventional tools. So ya, long story short... blades are hard to drill through.
Second, the amount of filing required gets very tedious and controlling a round file well enough to keep the lines relatively straight is a chore as well.
There are of course other ways to do it but for me this is the easiest and fastest. The ability to do a batch instead of one at a time gets the etch time per pick far less than the time required to drill and file or any other practical DIY method I can think of.
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by .45cal » 9 Jun 2008 19:12
If you do decide to use a drill you have to be sure to lubricate the bit almost constantly otherwise the blade will heat up and ruin the temper of you blade and that defeats the purpose of using the blade in the first place.
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by Havoc » 23 Jun 2008 1:49
That's a pretty slick idea!
With enough care, you could rough out an entire pickset in no time at all. It would be a little trickier to learn than with a grinder, but hey, if you don't have access to a grinder, this would be much faster than filing.
And that's a pretty cool new take on the tension wrench, this is my first look at it. I'll have to make one for my set!
Thanks for the info! 
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by mkultra23 » 4 Jul 2008 11:06
I love this technique, this is what Mr. Wizard would do for tension wrenches if he was a locksmith. Very creative Vitti. I will have to get around to making John Falle-style wrenches now as this looks like fun...and I'm sick of wrenches that slip easily in the keyway. Thank you.
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by mkultra23 » 4 Jul 2008 11:09
this technique surely yields much stronger tools then machining as there will be no effect on the temper of the surrounding metal and thus less resultant stress introduced to the material
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by doppleganger » 12 Jul 2008 22:33
could someone post a pic/url as to what kind of lock this tension wrench fits in or pics of it in use. the prongs are so close together I'd think you wouldn't be using this in a standard lock.
maybe I'm missing something, but I just can't seem to figure this tension wrench out.
thanks,
Dopp
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by Archive555 » 14 Jul 2008 2:35
doppleganger wrote:could someone post a pic/url as to what kind of lock this tension wrench fits in or pics of it in use. the prongs are so close together I'd think you wouldn't be using this in a standard lock.
maybe I'm missing something, but I just can't seem to figure this tension wrench out.
thanks, Dopp
I'm no expert, but I'm pretty sire that the short end that protrudes from the top goes into the top of the keyway, while the longer end into the bottom.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but that's my best guess.
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by Schuyler » 14 Jul 2008 2:37
correct, it provides a balanced turning tension.
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by doppleganger » 14 Jul 2008 20:47
so the prongs are slim enough to fit into the key way perpendicular, instead of parallel like a normal tension wrench, which basically keeps the plug from shifting or binding at an odd angle and increasing torque and control.
Dopp
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by mindrail » 18 Aug 2008 8:32
.45cal wrote:If you do decide to use a drill you have to be sure to lubricate the bit almost constantly otherwise the blade will heat up and ruin the temper of you blade and that defeats the purpose of using the blade in the first place.
I'd imagine that the only way to cut through the hacksaw blade at all with a drill bit would be to spray lots of cutting oil as you're drilling. First the problem of slipping, then driving through hardened metal and thirdly over heating the blade.
I'll have to see for myself how drilling goes and how much cutting oil is needed.
Does anyone know if the etching itself affects the metal under the plastic tape? Definitely sounds like a good way to make pick blanks, except for the setting up required.
Also how straight a line can you get with etching?
-Paul
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by Brianpojo56 » 18 Aug 2008 12:09
If you are going to drill in a hacksaw blade and you don't want to spend a thick stack of cash on a hard plate drill bit, use a masonry bit with a drill press. As already stated you definitely want to use some sort of coolant or lubricant. It will drill slower but it will make it through with patients and you can make more than one hole per bit. In my opinion however, I'd sooner go at it with a small cutting wheel and a steady hand than with a drill bit. Even still, I'd try saltwater etching before even thinking about attempting to do this with power tools.
There's nothing what can't be done with a lil Trailer Park Ingenuity.
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by wolfy_9005 » 9 Sep 2008 3:55
Yeh, NaCl when an electric current is passed through it will make Cl, and Na. If it's in water, im not sure, but it should still give off Cl and H gasses. remember they used Cl in WW2, primarily to kill people(it will irritate/burn the lungs, leading to death)
Strike Hard, Strike Fast and Show No Mercy.
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by wolfy_9005 » 9 Sep 2008 3:58
Forgot to ask something.
Could you do this method to shape a pick using hacksaw blades as the blanks?
Strike Hard, Strike Fast and Show No Mercy.
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by MisterQ » 30 Oct 2008 16:00
Great job! Did you try to etching complex molds? Is it maybe possible to etching shapes of comb picks or jigglers? In place of electrical tape it's maybe possible to use photoresist and after than do the exposition. It's only a suggestion.
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