Brinks rekeyable padlock

by **know_fun** » 23 Jul 2004 6:06

i bought this padlock awhile ago but can pick it. i opend it and found that all 5 pins are security pins. its serated kind of hard to explain how it looks like. anyways it needs heavy torque to even turn but i need a light torque to set the pins. how do i get this open?

Code: Select all: |`||`| |`||`| |###############| |_||_| |_||_|

by **Hojo** » 23 Jul 2004 6:15

Did you mean the pins looked like....

(A)
__ __
| | | |
| ######## |
|__| |__|

(B)
___________ __
| \ | |
| #|
|___________/ |_|

by **know_fun** » 23 Jul 2004 6:17

the spaces mess up but it looks like (A) but both sides are serated

by **Hojo** » 23 Jul 2004 6:17

Try oiling the plug...and try a feather light tension tool, I have recently made a tool like a feater but it gives lighter tension and gets past security pins very well...
http://www.lockpicking101.com/viewtopic.php?t=3684
Check it out...

by **Grudge** » 24 Jul 2004 20:36

Just a quick clarification, is this the Brinks House Key rekeyable lock. It usually is Kwickset compatible and comes with a set of pins (available from Walmart)? If so, I have quite a bit experience with this guy.

Also just a quick tip, use the 'Code' button to block out your ASCII Art so it keeps its shape (like this):

Code: Select all: _ ____ ____ ___ ___ _ _ / \ / ___| / ___|_ _|_ _| / \ _ __| |_ / _ \ \___ \| | | | | | / _ \ | '__| __| / ___ \ ___) | |___ | | | | / ___ \| | | |_ /_/ \_\____/ \____|___|___| /_/ \_\_| \__|

Cool Eh?

by **Luke** » 24 Jul 2004 20:54

never oil anything to do with a lock cylinder... horrible, just horrible. They jam up, the get sticky, and when i take apart a lock that has been oiled, i usually, just take a look and toss it out.

by **Guitar_J** » 25 Jul 2004 0:40

Why? why not soak it in kerosene or some other industrial cleaner.

by **Luke** » 25 Jul 2004 1:07

Thats a good idea, but i generally dont have time for that

by **CaptHook** » 25 Jul 2004 2:00

Heres a good option, brake cleaner. Go to your local auto parts store and get a can, comes in handy. It is a degreaser in a high pressure spray, spray lock parts to be cleaned, and give them a few seconds to air dry, then relube with whatever you like.
Chuck

by **Chucklz** » 25 Jul 2004 11:24

Be careful where you spray that brake cleaner... has a nasty tendency to remove paint.

by **CaptHook** » 25 Jul 2004 15:50

Yep, it removes eyes too, so be sure and wear safety glasses.
Chuck

by **Romstar** » 25 Jul 2004 17:32

Oddly enough, brake cleaner is one of the chemical sprays I use all the time that I never wear protection for. I think it has something to do with how and where I learned about it.

If I am working on a car, I almost never wear protection. Welding and cutting are about the only exceptions to that.

When I am doing any lock work, or making picks or other tools, I always have eye protection and sometimes even a respirator. I've done fuel systems and never worn so much as a dust mask.

Sooner or later these extremes are going to kill me I suppose. :shock:

About the only thing that I do get scared of is some of the new automotive paints. Cynoacrylates are a nightmare. Get into your lungs and everything else. I know guys who's bodies can't even stand a single drop of this stuff anymore. It's that deadly.

Maybe I should start paying more attention to what I am doing. Habits are hard things to break.

Romstar

by **know_fun** » 26 Jul 2004 5:37

yeah its the house keyable lock. my friend kinda took it apart messed up the springs "playing with it" anyways took me an hour to finally get the springs unjammed. next day got it repinned but i haven't really looked at what pins where put on. i finally picked it though but because of my friend i could have cheated

Problem: the tube doesn't spring back anymore. usually it would reset if you let the tension go but now it doesn't. any help would greatly be appreciated because im going to use this as my practice lock. i'm trying to look for security pins to put in it to play with

by **CaptHook** » 26 Jul 2004 16:56

Solvents can be dangerous. At one of the machine shops I used to work in, we used tapmatic brand cutting fluid. The 1,1,1-trichloroethane that the formula was based on had some nasty consequenses. I got it in a cut one time, and had a very severe case of dermatitis that left my hands covered in raw red dry spots for monthes. Last I heard, they quit making the stuff.

by **Grudge** » 27 Jul 2004 23:41

If its the lock I am thinking of, it doesn't really have serated pins but spool drivers. The drivers are the pins that sit above the ones which the key actually touches. A spool pin looks something like this:

Code: Select all: ___ [ ] | | [___]

Actually this lock does NOT need lubrication. It just has a cylinder spring which could slam a screen door shut. If you want to stop fighting the cylinder, unlock the shackle and then pick it (of course, you loose that satisfying click when it opens). If you want to pick it with the shackle in place, use A LOT of tension on the wrench. Then you can actually feel the spool drivers click as the cylinder falls into the 'gap' of the driver and then click again as you push the driver above this point to the shear line. You want to hear that double click on those spools, otherwise they are false set.

Yeh, yeh I know they always say to use a light touch, but that doesn't always apply to padlocks which have a cylinder spring (especially this lock, which I think uses suspension springs from an 1983 Buick). I hope this helps.

Brinks rekeyable padlock

Brinks rekeyable padlock

Hmmm

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