My very own clam kit

[Jaakko]

How long it takes for that stuff to cure and what it is like after curing? Silicone sealant -like? And what kind of instructions that set has?

[fsdhy]

I would say it cures harder than silicone, by a small margin. Almost like a chil's rubber bouncing ball. The molds, once formed, are surprisingly tough. They can withstand the hot metal being poured into them multiple times before degrading. I've been able to use one vial to make 4 working Protec copies... the fifth copy had so many air bubbles that it would not function. I can post some pics of the completed mold, if you'd like.


The instructions were in german, but basically it went like this: Prepare one vial with the white chemical and the yellow chemical. Mix. This combination will last several hours before hardening, and the instructions indicate this is to make the process as portable/concealable as possible (I guess they are targetting g-men). Add the blue chemical and the mixture will harden within 45-60 seconds. It's quite interesting to see, and you've really got to mix and get the key in there quick!

My first try was a failure, as the blue chemical does need to be mixed in. If left alone, ie: not shaken or stirred, it tends to harden long before it spreads to the bottom of the vial. Leaving you with a mold of half a key

Overall, I'm really impressed with the process. But honestly, I'm not sold on the quality of the rest of the kit. The little case fell apart after 10 mintues of being in the back of my service van. The lighter/scalpel/low melting point metal can be purchased elsewhere for much cheaper. For vials, you can use clear film canisters (I like to use the little cases Lab pins come in). So to anyone considering the kit, I would suggest just getting the refill pack of chemicals and save yourself some money.

UNLESS we can figure out a comparable chemical mixture on our own?

PS: All Protec keys were destroyed after experimentation, to avoid breaking any laws. This kit is only being used to make temporary copies of antique keys.

[Jaakko]

I would say it cures harder than silicone, by a small margin. Almost like a chil's rubber bouncing ball. The molds, once formed, are surprisingly tough. They can withstand the hot metal being poured into them multiple times before degrading.

I can easily find two part silicones, but never three part, so I suspect that it is some kind of polymer resin that uses a hardener. Would have to ask from some company if they know any resin like this.

The instructions were in german, but basically it went like this: Prepare one vial with the white chemical and the yellow chemical. Mix. This combination will last several hours before hardening, and the instructions indicate this is to make the process as portable/concealable as possible (I guess they are targetting g-men). Add the blue chemical and the mixture will harden within 45-60 seconds. It's quite interesting to see, and you've really got to mix and get the key in there quick!

What do you do after the resin has cured and the key is in there? Do you somehow slice the mold in half to get the key out or what?

UNLESS we can figure out a comparable chemical mixture on our own?

I would look at silicone rubbers, especially RTV type (Room Temperature Vulcanizing). Usually they are two part mixes and dry in half hor, but I'm sure there is products that use a catalyst/hardener to speed it up.

PS: All Protec keys were destroyed after experimentation, to avoid breaking any laws.

It ain't illegal to do copies, but if you ask money from those, then it is illegal

[fsdhy]

What do you do after the resin has cured and the key is in there? Do you somehow slice the mold in half to get the key out or what?

Yes, that is why they include the scalpel. The small tubes in the kit open on both ends, so once the resin has hardened, you remove the bottom of the vial and push the hard green blob out of the tube. Then you can slice the mold and spread it to pop the key out.

Just to be extra careful, I always slice the mold at the bottom of the key to avoid harming the impression of the bitting (ie: for Mul-T-Lock & Abloy, I slice on the side). You then put the hunk of resin (without original key in it) back into the tube, and pop the cap back on the bottom.

Heat the metal, pour it, wait ~2 minutes and slide the resin back out. You can then spread the resin along your old slice to pop the new key out.

The fit between the resin and the container is tight enough that it closes the slice and hot metal cannot get in.

[fsdhy]

Sorry, I just noticed you said "in half". No, you don't need to cut it in half. It's sufficient to slice along one edge, and the resin wil flex just enough to allow you to pop the key out without cutting the other side.

[Jaakko]

Okay, thank you for confirming my thoughts I don't seem to easily find any fast curing silicones or rubber compounds, maybe someone with better language skills might find

[Jaakko]

Does anyone of those three chemicals smell very bad or strong, like epoxy?

If so, I think the stuff may be polyurethane. It is made from isocyanate, polyol and a catalyst.

[unjust]

i'll wager that's right. if not it should be possible to use, i've played with several types of pu for various projects and it's not a bad idea. may well be cheaper or less hassle to get the replacement packs instead of buying commercially though.

[fsdhy]

Does anyone of those three chemicals smell very bad or strong, like epoxy?

If so, I think the stuff may be polyurethane. It is made from isocyanate, polyol and a catalyst.

Actually, the chemicals are odourless. Only the completed green mold has a unique smell, its tough to describe. Very chemical-ish smell.

[Engineer]

If we could find out a brand name, all should become clear by looking or requesting the MSDS sheet for it (Material Safety Data Sheet).

[Safety0ff]

Does anyone of those three chemicals smell very bad or strong, like epoxy?

If so, I think the stuff may be polyurethane. It is made from isocyanate, polyol and a catalyst.

Are you thinking about Methyl ethyl ketone? It's the catalyst used for polyester resin (think fiberglass.)

[Transam]

Sorry, I just noticed you said "in half". No, you don't need to cut it in half. It's sufficient to slice along one edge, and the resin wil flex just enough to allow you to pop the key out without cutting the other side.

Can you make more than 1 key with one casting metal "nugget"? Does the plastic tube have room to make 2 different key castings at the same time ( yes, i'm a cheap B*stard )?

Please post pics about the process if you have them. It would be nice to see one casted key

[barbarian]

What about Silicone putty ? Seems like it would work.

http://www.smooth-on.com/index.php?cPath=2_1113

Or the cheaper version.

http://www.clayalley.com/goop.htm

[Transam]

What about Silicone putty ? Seems like it would work.

http://www.smooth-on.com/index.php?cPath=2_1113

Or the cheaper version.

http://www.clayalley.com/goop.htm

I am just about to order the alley goop stuff. I stumbled on their site today. It cures quite fast, it handles heat well, and the only bad part is that you can't see the key inside the mold when you are cutting the mold.

[New-York-Locksmith]

Great! really looks effective