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by padlocks » 23 Jul 2008 16:40
Does anyone have an easy way of getting a security grub screw out of an Abloy 330 so I can take the mechanism apart. I have been told that instead of the normal grub screw that you take out with an allen key this is screwed in then the top snapped of to make it difficult to remove. Have looked at drilling it, but am worried about messing the thread up – are there any locksmith tricks for removing this? Thanks
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by freakparade3 » 23 Jul 2008 16:50
If you mess up the threads you can use a tap to recut them. A tap and die set can be gotten for around $20
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by Jaakko » 23 Jul 2008 22:58
One method is to use an EDM-machine, Electro Discharge Machining. This burns out the screw or you can use a hex rod or similar to burn an allen wrench slot in its head.
I suppose you have the small screw in there added with a steel ball, ths preventing normal disassembly and drilling of that retainer screw.
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by I Pik U » 8 Aug 2008 15:33
It's a non-rekeyable lock.
You can oredr them from Abloy that way.
Like mentioned "I have been told that instead of the normal grub screw that you take out with an allen key this is screwed in then the top snapped of to make it difficult to remove."
The retainer screw is designed not to be removed.
I've never tried.
A small screw extractor may work, if you can get them that small, otherwise dilling may be the only option.
 Been playing with locks since '68.
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by Legacy712 » 10 Aug 2008 3:27
A bolt extractor probably won't work without damaging the case, if it's flush with the case. I would recommend drilling on a drill press, then retapping if necessary, as previously mentioned. The smaller the hole, the better. Then you might be able to jamb something in there and back it out. Trouble is, it's too darned small.
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by Jaakko » 10 Aug 2008 3:52
I Pik U wrote:A small screw extractor may work, if you can get them that small, otherwise dilling may be the only option.
If it is PL330 or some other with the M4 screw, it will contain a steel ball punched in to that hex head if non-rekeyability is wanted and the size is 2.2mm. Have fun drilling a ball  The bigger ones which use M5 screw the papers say they use 2.778mm steel ball.
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by I Pik U » 15 Aug 2008 15:25
I haven't seen them with a ball in there.
The latest models have a screw approx. 3/4 inches long that snaps off when tightened, leaving the small starting piece in the lock body, not removable.
 Been playing with locks since '68.
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by mitch.capper » 15 Aug 2008 17:31
Please take some pictures of the lock as some 330's are actually rekeyable and just need a hex wrench in the proper spot so before you attack it make sure it really isn't a rekeyable one:)
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by n2oah » 15 Aug 2008 23:07
Could you use a broken drill bit extractor to unscrew the screw?
"Lockpicking is what robbing is all about!" says Jim King.
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by globallockytoo » 15 Aug 2008 23:14
purchase a reverse thread (a.k.a American thread) or reverse taper drill. Then drill in reverse on your battery drill (if you can find a small enough version of the bit).
As it starts to bite into the metal...the screw will naturally back out.
then you'll need to find a replacement...that'll be hard.
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by jpb06080 » 16 Aug 2008 2:28
I have an abloy cutaway 330, and a non cutaway. (I'm pretty sure its a 330 anyways). The hex screw is easily removed on the cutaway, but I haven't tried on the regular padlock. I can tell you this much:
1. There is a very small drainage hole that lines up perfectly with the retaining screw. This screw is only accessable when the lock is in the unlocked position since the shackle will be in the way otherwise.
2. Use a 5/64 hex key (same one you use on medeco)
3. Once the screw is removed, you have to unscrew the hardened steel face plate which is also threaded. Once this is removed, everything can be taken apart.
I hope this is relevant and not totally off base. I'm not positive that I have 330s, and i've only removed the core on the cutaway, so I have no idea if this will work on a normal padlock.
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by Jaakko » 16 Aug 2008 5:01
globallockytoo wrote:then you'll need to find a replacement...that'll be hard.
For PL330 they use M4x5-A2 flat ended grub screw, so it has M4 threads, it is 5mm long and it is made of stainless steel (A2) 
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by padlocks » 16 Aug 2008 16:56
Thanks for all the replies, luckily it doesn't have the ball in it, so it is drillable. I'm looking for a small enough extractor to reverse the screw out. No problem to replace if I can get it out with out damage as my local Abloy dealer will supply new screw and disc mechanism to the same pattern as my other keyed alike padlocks for £7.
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by TOWCH » 16 Aug 2008 20:49
Heating the lock in an oven or with a propane torch will probably help with removing the non-removable pin. Afer you have done this, there is no garuntee against distortion so that lock is no longer valid as a Proof of Concept lock.
If you drill a straight hole, then you can hammer a slightly tapered square pin into it. If you drill a tapered hole you can hammer a tapered round pin to match and that might also work.
My 321 has what looks like a tap broken off in to it. I'm eventually going to try taper ground piano wire with a screwdriver turned and filed to grab the wire, with a ring to lock the wire in place.
As already mentioned, Wire EDM is supposed to be good for removing broken taps and ez-outs and such, but I think it's too expensive to use on an abloy when they have rekeyable versions for sale?
If you encounter a ball bearing the simples way to solve that problem is to drill a hole from another angle behind it to give it some place to fall out. If you're going to mill out a section, that would be a good spot to drill, or if not, then opposite the milled section so that you don't have to look at the hole.
Personally: I think it's a safe assumption that the ball bearing is roughly the same size as the plug you're trying to remove so assuming that it is halfway inside the plug retainer: then just do the above method and forget about removing the broken grub. Then you can tap your hole and put in a removable grub screw.
Fill any imperfections in the non-removable grub with silver solder or epoxy puddy and file, sand, and polish that side of the lock to blend the non-removable pin if you want.
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by TOWCH » 16 Aug 2008 20:51
TOWCH wrote:Heating the lock in an oven or with a propane torch will probably help with removing the non-removable pin. Afer you have done this, there is no garuntee against distortion so that lock is no longer valid as a Proof of Concept lock.
If you drill a straight hole, then you can hammer a slightly tapered square pin into it. If you drill a tapered hole you can hammer a tapered round pin to match and that might also work.
My 321 has what looks like a tap broken off in to it. I'm eventually going to try taper ground piano wire with a screwdriver turned and filed to grab the wire, with a ring to lock the wire in place.
As already mentioned, Wire EDM is supposed to be good for removing broken taps and ez-outs and such, but I think it's too expensive to use on an abloy when they have rekeyable versions for sale?
If you encounter a ball bearing the simples way to solve that problem is to drill a hole from another angle behind it to give it some place to fall out. If you're going to mill out a section, that would be a good spot to drill, or if not, then opposite the milled section so that you don't have to look at the hole.
Personally: I think it's a safe assumption that the ball bearing is roughly the same size as the plug you're trying to remove so assuming that it is halfway inside the plug retainer: then just do the above method and forget about removing the broken grub. Then you can tap your hole and put in a removable grub screw. (Pilot drill with a smaller drill bit to prevent wandering and missing your mark)
Fill any imperfections in the non-removable grub with silver solder or epoxy puddy and file, sand, and polish that side of the lock to blend the non-removable pin if you want.
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TOWCH
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