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Simple desk lock

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
Forum rules
Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

Simple desk lock

Postby serpentine5 » 12 Aug 2008 23:11

I have an old military desk that I picked up a few years ago because it was very sturdy so i could bang my leather on it. It has a front center drawer that has a lock in it (I have taken the lock out and is sitting right here actually) that when locked, locks all the drawers. My Sentry Fire Safe key fits it, and it is marked FR 80 where the key enters. There are either 4 or 5 wafer type "pins" in it. I have been able to pick it several times, but I cannot get the key cylinder out of the case so I can re-key the wafers so the Fire Safe key works on it. I attempted to use a cut out strip of "coke" can as a shim to slide in from the rear to go into the shear line to allow the two pieces to come apart as I pick it, but cannot do it. I do not believe the wafer type lock works on the same principal as the pin lock. I tried to search the site for info on wafer pin locks and could not find any info on how they work as opposed to the pins.
Any one know where to find this info on how to separate the two? or am I just screwed?
I have bought several replacement locks, but none match up to the existing hardware in the drawer so none work. I am stuck with having to use this lock and cannot replace it.

Thanks
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Postby vrocco » 13 Aug 2008 11:32

Alot of cheap wafer locks aren't even made so they can be taken apart and rekeyed. Hoentsly, it's a pain in the butt.

I just had a similar situation with a friend who had an old stamp vending machine. I picked it open easily, but rather than try and impression a key or mess around trying to replace wafers, I spent $3 and ordered a replacement lock.

If you want to rekey it or impression it to learn, that's great. If you just want to use the desk, replace it.

Just my $.02
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Postby serpentine5 » 13 Aug 2008 11:58

Thats just it, like I said, the lock cannot be replaced because of the internal hardware in the desk itself. All the newer locks will not match and fit the hardware.
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Postby ToolyMcgee » 13 Aug 2008 18:05

Like a tool chest lock that has all the rods activating the lock mech on the other drawers in the chest? If it is just an issue of hardware maybe you could salvage the cam and order a new lock. Maybe you could check out a hardware store to see if the locks on the chests are similar and if you find one just order the lock replacement for that.

Just throwing ideas out there.
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Postby jpb06080 » 13 Aug 2008 18:50

Can you take the core out of the housing? If the desk isn't locked, you should be able to. Theres probably either a retaining wafer in the back, or a C clip. If its a C clip, first take that off, then pick. If its a retaining wafer, it shouldn't matter. Then CAREFULLY remove the core, once its in the open position. All the wafers should be exposed, so if you bring you're sentry key to a locksmith, he would probably be able to give you a blank. Then, using a file, it should be pretty easy to file down the key until it operates the mechanism. Good luck!
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Postby serpentine5 » 14 Aug 2008 6:58

Yeah, kind of like a tool box lock that locks all the drawers. I have the lock out of the drawer. There is not a retaining clip. So I figure it is a retaining wafer, but, I have it in an unlocked position. Locked at 12:00 and at 3:00 it is currently at 1:00. I was able to slide a shim in from the back side in hopes of clearing the shear line and being able to pop the cylinder our of the case, but it will not budge.
As for finding a replacement lock, I have looked high and low, and have found several locks that look like this one, but non match up on the back side where the desk hardware attaches to it.
I know I can probably get a replacement key, because the FR 80 on the front of the lock will allow any locksmith in the area with good code software to look it up, and cut a new key without ever needing to see the lock.
Several years ago, when i was in the cable industry, I got a very very good deal on a utility topper for my truck. The guy I bought it from didnt have the keys to the side or rear door any longer. So I went over to my neighbor who worked for the biggest and most well known local locksmith and asked him if he could possibly rekey it. He asked me if there were numbers on the outside of the lock, I went back, wrote them down, took the writing back to him, he got into his work van, fired up his laptop, and was cutting 2 keys for me within minutes. He handed them to me and I went back up the hill to my truck to try them, and both fit perfectly. And he never set eyes on the locks themselves.
I dont want to do this. I would rather do it myself because of the challenge.
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Postby HeadHunterCEO » 14 Aug 2008 11:02

take the code to a locksmith and have the key cut. also those locks can still be gotten new.
Doorologist
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Postby serpentine5 » 14 Aug 2008 11:16

Headhunter, thanks but I just said that I do not want to take the lock nor code to a LS to get it done... I want to do ti myself.... just for the challenge and experience. as for the lock itself.... a replacement lock with keys would be ok, but i still want to do this lock myself. Where would you recommend I look to find a replacement?
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Postby freakparade3 » 14 Aug 2008 11:38

You can't shim a wafer lock like a pin tumbler lock. There usually is a retainer that holds the plug in. You will have to drill a small hole in the lock case to get to it. Without seeing the lock it's impossible to tell you where to drill.
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Postby serpentine5 » 14 Aug 2008 12:00

Freak, Hows a pic for you?I will take a few pix and post em on photobucket and post the links here for you to see the lock itself.
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Postby freakparade3 » 14 Aug 2008 12:53

sounds good
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Postby serpentine5 » 14 Aug 2008 12:56

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Postby freakparade3 » 14 Aug 2008 13:58

On the back of the plug there should be a roll pin. Drive or drill it out and the plug will come out of the shell.
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Postby serpentine5 » 14 Aug 2008 15:00

ok, will post back more pix.... I didnt realize that I didnt take pix of the rear of the unit. As it is, I do not see any roll pin in it at all. Possibly it has been grinded down where I cannot see it, so i have taken pix of all angles of the backside...
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Postby serpentine5 » 14 Aug 2008 15:22

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