When it comes down to it there is nothing better than manual tools for your Lock pick Set, whether they be retail, homebrew, macgyver style. DIY'ers look here.
by luke42 » 24 Aug 2008 22:51
there is alot to be desired in this pick but never the less it is my first ever pick made and to be fair i only found the grinding stone at the very end =(
good fun to make and i expect plenty more to be coming.
it is supposed to be a hook pick, any constructive critisicm is most welcome!
cheers,
luke.
it's not the size of your pick that counts, but how you use it.
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luke42
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by Olson Burry » 24 Aug 2008 23:11
I think it looks like a great start!
There really is nothing quite like opening your first lock with home made tools. It also allows you to begin to feel what works and how changes can be made to make them more suited to how you use them.
It maybe looks a little rough around the edges - it might just be the snaps though - does your camera have a macro function to make them clearer perhaps?
Plenty of elbow grease and 400, 600 and then 1000 grit "wet or dry" will make them nice and smooth and shiny.
Maybe get a set of needle files to help smooth out the edges a little and finish it a bit more, otherwise the dimensions looks good gauging from the hole in the end of the hacksaw blade i assume you've used.
As long as it glides nicely in the lock and you find it comfortable to use, its a good pick.
Whatever tool youre using they take a bit of practice to get used to, a couple of picks in it will seems easier.
Good luck, happy pickin' 
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Olson Burry
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by luke42 » 24 Aug 2008 23:48
thanks for that mate!
was using the dremel i got yesterday so still getting used to using it, i plan for tommorow to start making it shiny with the sand paper, and yes it is a bit rough around the edges but it can be fixed up, thanks for the information
it's not the size of your pick that counts, but how you use it.
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luke42
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by luke42 » 25 Aug 2008 7:27
good luck with your pick, and thank you for the congradulations =)
what tool you thinking of using for them?
cheers,
luke.
it's not the size of your pick that counts, but how you use it.
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luke42
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by jamesphilhulk2 » 25 Aug 2008 8:03
any chance of a better quality pictures 
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jamesphilhulk2
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by luke42 » 25 Aug 2008 16:04
hey guys,
sorry james, i will have clearer pictures when i'm with my good camera again, those are just taken off my phone.
yes the question was at you wonder  they're the next two picks on my list though i can't say that i am looking forward to shaping out that snake rake, i will most likely be using a template for that =)
cheers,
luke.
it's not the size of your pick that counts, but how you use it.
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luke42
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by LearningTheArt » 25 Aug 2008 22:15
Yeah I would smooth it out too.
Other than that great pick, good job.
@winderbread What kind of grinder is it, I replaced my Ryobi grinding wheels for pretty cheap.
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LearningTheArt
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by luke42 » 26 Aug 2008 2:01
Hey learning, thanks for the compliment, it deffinantly does need some sanding out, i'm still trying to figure out what each these accesories do!
that kinda sucks wonder, don't know how that could of cracked! i don't think they would cost that much after all it only costs 50$ australian to buy a bench grinder new with two grinding stones, though best of luck with it, may start with a snake rake this afternoon.
cheers,
luke.
it's not the size of your pick that counts, but how you use it.
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luke42
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by raimundo » 26 Aug 2008 7:07
Just for your information wonderbread, people have been killed outright by grinding stones that break up. You are luck you weren't hit. One of the common ways this used to happen had to do with wet grinding, the stone would be left with the lower end in water making it heavier, and unbalanceing the stone.
However given the discription of how you let the wheel grab the steel, that would seem to be the problem, before you replace that stone, you should turn the machine on and put your finger on the spinning shaft, it won't hurt if you don't do something dumb or wear a tie near it, but you need to find out if the whole shaft is bent a little, you will be able to feel that by touching the spinning shaft lightly. if the shaft is bent, there is no use buying another stone, it will wobble and not work right. If the shaft survived, then replace the stone and in the future, keep your attention on the grinding or get the metal off the stone, when you look away.
Wear saftey glasses.
Wake up and smell the Kafka!!!
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raimundo
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by LearningTheArt » 26 Aug 2008 22:21
Wow. My stones cost me about 4.75 a pop + s/h so a grand total of about 12-14 bucks. Personally I wouldn't even risk it, I would just buy a new grinder.
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LearningTheArt
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by Metalworker » 28 Aug 2008 22:30
Benchgrinders are among the most dangerous tools in a metal shop. An exploding wheel on a surface grinder or bench grinder can permanently remove your eye from 50 feet, easy. Never turn on a bench grinder if the wheel is at all cracked. If you have doubts, and must use the grinder, stand clear of the "line of fire" when turning on the grinder, and wear your face shield.
I strongly recommend that you find an experienced metalworker (machinist or the like) to teach you to use that tool. Looking away from the grinder at all while something is toughing the wheel is grounds to be fired where I work.
Also, I would advise against touching the shaft when the grinder is running (don't do anything dumb said to someone who broke the wheel like this?). Spin it by hand to feel. Even better, get a dial indicator and do the job right.
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Metalworker
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