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by Urbex » 2 Sep 2008 17:55
I would go with some type of Folger Adam.
It's not so pick resistant, but it will resist any common physical attack you throw at it.
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by Raymond » 2 Sep 2008 23:27
I suggest that you get a lot of Master No. 5 padlocks. These should be just heavy enough to do some damage when you throw them. I would not feel quite as protected using Master No. 3 padlocks.
Nothing is foolproof to a talented fool. Wisdom is not just in determining how to do something, but also includes determining whether it should be done at all.
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by zeke79 » 4 Sep 2008 19:40
datagram wrote:A Schlage primus would be a good choice if you live in the US. In Europe/elsewhere you have easy access to a much wider variety of high security locks. Of course, as everyone else mentioned, it won't do any good unless you have a proper door to accompany it.
If you go with primus, try your best to order online. That will help immensely to ensure that you do not end up with the same sidebar code as a large number of people who have bought from the same locksmith. If you are stuck on primus and just have to have it, for the maximum benefit buy your own sidebar. It will be expensive but it will ensure that no one else in your area will ever have the same sidebar configuration. It would actually be cheaper to go with bilock or abloy protec. I personally use abloy protec and feel that the hardware of the deadbolt is just about as secure as the locking mechanism itself. The deadbolt itself is hardened very well and will prevent someone from simply drilling out the deadbolt screws retaining the hardware from the outside which is a weakpoint for many locks and is in most cases quick and easy to do. Once it has been done, the hardware itself can simply be replaced with your original untouched cylinder reinstalled so you may never notice that is has been done.
For the best book out there on high security locks and their operation, take a look at amazon.com for High-Security Mechanical Locks An Encyclopedic Reference. Written by our very own site member Greyman! A true 5 Star read!!
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by HeavyPants » 5 Sep 2008 15:30
ToolyMcgee, your post was very informative and helpfull. Thank you! I don't think I can afford a new door but I could go for the closed box.
Trip doctor, David Belle is awesome indeed. I don't mind him stealing me!
Urbex, i will look for info on Folger Adam. Thank for the advise!
Zeke, I am familiar with the sidebar code system so in case i get a primus I will definately order it through the net. However I have never heard of this drilling trick you mentioned. I will have to include this to my stadars from now on.
Raymond, at last I found a new use for all these old padlocks with missing keys!
I like this post, there is a lot of brainstorming going on! Thank you all for your time and ideas!
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by Scott_93 » 6 Sep 2008 8:19
Mul-T-Lock MT5, Ingersoll cylinder, Chubb AVA, Abloy Disklock pro and after, Schlarge Everest-Primus, ASSA Twin Combi, Banham/Yale 5000 and Braham-Chubb are all locks that I recommened for EXTREME high security.
Scott.
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by mhole » 6 Sep 2008 11:55
I'm not 'up' on locks outside of the UK, so I don't know what is common in Greece, but I'd suggest a deadlock of some description (can't be slipped open) and ideally some kind of auto deadlocking latch.
For a UK customer, I'd suggest a Yale or Era B.S nightlatch, and either a B.S 5-lever mortise deadlock, or a euro cylinder-deadlock with security escutcheons to prevent snapping attacks. For somebody with money to burn, the new Banham range look good, and give you the chance to key alike your mortise lock and latch lock - at a price!
Also, don't imagine you're immune to forced attach by being in flats - we often see break ins commited during the day, when other residents are out at work. Once the communal door is compromised, they're well out of sight, and can make as much noise as they like to force the individual flats. Take particular care if your door is opposite a wall, or anything else an attacker can brace themself against.
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by mhole » 6 Sep 2008 11:57
Also, don't get too carried away thinking locks - also consider the hinges, and get hinge bolts or anti jemmy hinges fitted.
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by HeavyPants » 6 Sep 2008 16:54
Scott 93, thx for the list. My final choice is probably going to be among the locks you mentioned.
Mhole, thank you agian for your reply and general interest on the thread!
Concerning slipping, I think that the best solution is to try and remember locking up. Hopefully I will get used to it.
In order to avoid having my door bashed open I will definately get a couple of hinge bolts. There are 2 bolts in the door. Do you think that the door could be bashed after that?
Last but not least, in order to prevent the lock from any other bypassing techniques i though about getting one of these:
http://www.dorgard.net/index1.html
Would they help in any way?
After I read every post I am sure that there aren't any other precautions I should take. However you people keep surprising me!
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by AlexMHH » 6 Sep 2008 17:05
I have a similar question as posted on this thread:
I realize that it's rather unlikely that someone will pick (or decode) a house lock, and that anything beyond a common Schlage will suffice, with destructive entry being a much larger threat. But I'm a lockie, and just like the pursuit of (excessive) security in of itself. I was wondering what the better lever locks were, as I like both the relative rarity of this type of lock in the US, and the security they seem to afford. The most interesting lever lock deadbolt that I have found is the Abloy Bodaguard SL-90x series, however, I can't find an English website that offers them.
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by Archive555 » 6 Sep 2008 20:06
The GeGe locks are pretty sweet, especially the GeGe PExtra, AP3000, and another I can't remember the name of...
[deadlink]http://img383.imageshack.us/img383/9965/sigjd3.png[/img]
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by Raymond » 7 Sep 2008 2:16
I realize that following this thread is a lot of fun. Everyone can list his favorite high security lock and expound on it's good points. However please remember that the more obvious you make your security, the more the bad guys will KNOW you have something worth stealing. If it looks too impressive they might kidnap you to get in. I know this sounds somewhat paranoid but there are limits to what one should do in the name of security. What if you loose your keys or they are stolen while at work and you are not aware until hours later?
Many serious burglars can simply break through a wall from either your hallway or through the wall of an ajoining flat. Sheetrock (gypsum board) or paneling aren't much protection.
Probably the best solution would be a modest set of good quality locks that actually look similar to your neighbor's and an alarm system. Intall a micro-switch inside the deadbolt latch hole that triggers the alarm timer the moment the bolt is withdrawn. If someone tries to fill the strike hole with any blocking substance, the bolt will not lock. This will cut down on the time you have to reach the disarm panel but it will be more difficult to defeat than a magnetic reed switch. If under duress you would simply delay your entry until the alarm triggers.
Nothing is foolproof to a talented fool. Wisdom is not just in determining how to do something, but also includes determining whether it should be done at all.
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by mhole » 7 Sep 2008 5:06
Raymond,
I'd tend to disagree. IMO in a block of flats, or a row of terraced houses, where a potential burglar has sight of a number of front doors, having a conspicuous external indicator of increased secuirty is beneficial.
If a burglar can see two doors, one of which has a single, basic 1109 cylinder on it, and one of which has a nightlatch with an anti drill shroud, and a deadlock with reinforcer on it, which one is he going to try to open in the limited time available?
It's like the two guys being chased by a bear. One says 'Say, do you really think we can out run this bear?'
The other says 'I don't need to out run the bear, I only have to out run *you*'.
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by barbarian » 7 Sep 2008 7:10
I think a bit of extra security would make the bad guy think that the place had been broken into once or twice before. Or maybe there was a woman living alone. I don't think they would target that apartment to see what was so valuable.
There was an old TV show where they had about 12 deadbolts on the door, plus a bar across it. Kinda funny, it took them three or four minutes to open the door each time.
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by n2oah » 7 Sep 2008 10:49
ToolyMcgee wrote:You can improve resistance to the old credit card trick by locking your deadbolt. You can improve the strength of your deadbolt from knocking out the back of the doorframe by getting a closed box strike plate. If you still want to go bigger than look into getting a heavier door. Some of the members undoubtedly have better suggestions, but that is what immediately comes to mind. I don't know what the rules of your flat are, but if the guy renting you the place is your pal he shouldn't have too much of a problem letting you increase the forced entry resistance of the apartment.
In addition, you also might want to think about securing the strike box with long screws. If you buy a high-security deadbolt, they usually include 2" screws. Those should be long enough to survive attacks.
"Lockpicking is what robbing is all about!" says Jim King.
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