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picking "lock wood" locks

Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.

picking "lock wood" locks

Postby phippoD » 26 Oct 2008 23:24

ive been picking locks for a while now but i havent managed yet to be able to pick a perticular brand of locks
a lockwood if anyone can give we any hell much abliged
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Re: picking "lock wood" locks

Postby cppdungeon » 28 Oct 2008 23:47

from what i know lockwood is an Australian lock company, just like master is a lock company. as they make many different kinds of locks, it helps if you describe the type of lock. is it a padlock? deadbolt cylinder? 5 pins? 4 pins? 6 pins? this will help everyone help you.

welcome to the forum
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Re: picking "lock wood" locks

Postby globallockytoo » 29 Oct 2008 0:01

Lockwood is a brand name owned by Assa-Abloy Asia Pacific. They bought out Ogden Industries, who owned Whitco, Lockwood, Efco and some garden tools company in Oz.

Efco was an extension of Lockwood (a copy effectively - but slightly differnt keyways)

Whitco was a logical pickup for Ogden Industries, which afterward made them a prime candidate for buy out by Assa-Abloy.

Lockwood cylinders are considered the industry standard in Australia.
There are may profiles of keyway, but standard keyways are LW4 (Silca) and 5 pin.....rarely any spool (mushroom) pins, .020 diff in depth between pins, 0-9 depths and .156 between spacings...not that difficult to pick (depending on combination).

Lockwood also make Status 6 profiles, V7 profiles and also Twin.
One One was a race horse, one one won one race, one two was a racehorse, one two won one too.

Disclaimer: Do not pull tag off mattress. Not responsible for legal advice while laughing.
Bilock - The Original True Bump Proof Pin Tumbler System!
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Re: picking "lock wood" locks

Postby lunchb0x » 29 Oct 2008 1:11

I have a Lockwood 530 cylinder which I pick quiet often, I find that sometimes after picking all the pins I might have to give all the pins a slight lift before it to open up, or sometimes a little more torque, personally I find Lockwood cylinders harder to pick than most other brands because of the small tolerances in the lock.

What type of cylinder are you trying to pick?
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Re: picking "lock wood" locks

Postby phippoD » 29 Oct 2008 2:32

the lock is 5 pin deadlock cylinder, i dodnt no why this perticular brand is so hard to pick because i have picked other 5 pin dead locks no problem. i think the problem might be the first pin looking at a key it is very low in comparison to all the others could this be why im having problems?
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Re: picking "lock wood" locks

Postby lunchb0x » 29 Oct 2008 12:09

Try pulling the lock apart and only leaving 2 pins on the lock, have a bit of practice at picking it in both directions with the 2 pins and when you open it add an extra pin and work your way up to 5.
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Re: picking "lock wood" locks

Postby Itzal » 29 Oct 2008 14:23

Lockwood is also a popular brand in New Zealand.

Walking to the hardware store, I was noticing the locks that were on doors I walked past (it's become a bit of a habit), most of them are lockwoods.
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Re: picking "lock wood" locks

Postby Bertrand » 20 Nov 2008 7:12

I have a Lockwood 530 cylinder which I pick quiet often, I find that sometimes after picking all the pins I might have to give all the pins a slight lift before it to open up, or sometimes a little more torque, personally I find Lockwood cylinders harder to pick than most other brands because of the small tolerances in the lock.


I have only been picking a few hours or so, hehe, so please be kind.

I have also been having trouble with this particular brand of pin tumbler lock (granted, it's the only lock I have ever tried to pick.)

I haven't found that it needs particularly much torque to get the pins set, but once they are all set, you need to start pushing at each of the pins again. You can be quite sloppy for this second 'pass', since the key pins are prevented from being pushed too far by the edge of the hull.

Why is this? I don't recall anything in MIT about this. (Mind you, I mainly remember the bit about "lockpicking is easy" hehe)

A bit more information about the lock:

1. Whether I turn it clockwise or anticlockwise the pins still set front to back.
2. I can easily pick it with up to the back four pins, but even when I've only got three in the front it becomes hit and miss for me. The front pin looks to be about a 1 (the others are all deeper.) I probably just need more practice, but the front two pins don't feel like they're setting; when it's just the back four they all do.
3. No security pins.
(4. Whinge: it's a pita to repin since you can't directly get at the driver pins and springs - you need to push them in one by one with a pair of tweezers while holding them in place with a plug follower.)

I don't know this is relevant or not, but I'm using an oblique hook. I really wanted to like the half diamond, but it just hasn't worked for me so far.
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Re: picking "lock wood" locks

Postby raimundo » 20 Nov 2008 9:17

Lockwood picking will get a few hits on youtube if you try the right search terms, what the previous post seems to describe may be some kind of spool pin or an artifact of the plug or bible if there is a step there to catch pins near the shear.
Wake up and smell the Kafka!!!
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Re: picking "lock wood" locks

Postby lunchb0x » 20 Nov 2008 12:21

I think the reason that the pins sometimes need a second lift is because the pins have a slight camber on the end of them unlike a lot of pins which have square ends, so the pins sit slightly below the shear line so a little bit more torque or a slight lift is enough to open it.

If you are still having trouble with it with only a couple of pins in it try getting a Whitco profile cylinder as the tolerance in them is a bit greater making it easier to pick, and they are a lot easier to re key, undo the 2 screws on the top and remove the cover then you can get too all the pins, you can get Lockwood cylinders which are similar with a metal cover on the top, so by removing it you can easily re key the lock instead of removing the plug and using a plug follower.
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Re: picking "lock wood" locks

Postby Bertrand » 20 Nov 2008 22:29

Thanks for the explanation. You're right - the driver pins do have a slight camber at their ends. This must be what's catching. (There are no security pins - this is my first lock and I'm not that ambitious.. hehe)

I have managed to pick the lock a few times now with all five pins in it. I think the problem I was running into was a result of my technique with the hook pick. I think I have been putting the hook end slightly past the end of the pin I've been lifting, which has worked okay for deeper pins, but with the first ~0 pin, it would have been hitting the plug instead of pushing the pin to the sheer line. I will have to work on this.

I will definitely buy a more easily rekeyable lock and some better picks in a little while. I didn't really want to get a wide assortment of locks and a $500 pick set before I had even learned to pick a lock. :) Having said that, the "Klom" brand set seems a little poorly made - when I was trying the "heavier torque" recommended for the lockwood brand, one of the picks snapped at the handle, not at the tip. The Petersen and Southord sets look like they have a proper tang, and come in slimline sets probably more suitable for Australian locks.
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Re: picking "lock wood" locks

Postby lunchb0x » 20 Nov 2008 22:48

You won't need to spend a lot of money on a pick set, all I use are my Southord slimline and its the 15 peice set I have, I only really use 4 of the picks in it and I find the slimline a lot easier to use, better feedback and stronger than the HPC set I used to use, now I try to use the HPC set on my Lockwood 530 cylinder and I find it a lot harder to pick, feels like there is less room to move the pick inside the lock.
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Re: picking "lock wood" locks

Postby Bertrand » 22 Nov 2008 5:21

Yeah, I think I'll get the Southord set. A lot cheaper hehehe. Probably the 22 piece slimline and the equivalent regular for FU'ed locks. The others look like they just contain a bunch of duplicates. I'm not sure I'm up to using a tension wrench and two picks simultaneously. Do these actually serve a purpose?
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