I just looked at that Capt Dunc thread, actually very good, but not probably applicable to the OP's question, As it shows traditional warded locks, not the laminated padlock that is probably the one in question.
for the laminated padlock cut a piece of metal or another warded padlock key til you have a double cross T, that is a T with two crossbars on the top.
You dont need the locator tab above the crossbar, as you are making a pick not a key.
the cross bars should be the thickness of one of the laminations, the space between the crossbars is the thickness of two laminations, or in rarer cases, it will be the thickness of three of the laminations,
These locks have a zigzag curtain, on top of the keyhole, a flat piece of metal can pass through if thin enough, (hacksaw blade will do, also drain snake etc) Or you can just file one of the keys to a double T and pass the wards/laminations that are obstructing. you do not need the arms of the crossbar to be as long as the zigzag in that curtain, as there is a tolerance that allows the key to pass easily, also if you have a weaker steel like some brickstrap, the longer crossbars are more likely to become bent and curled inside the lock, and its not completely necessary to have them full width.
hope this helps, or, you may have already used the rebar pincher.
