American Lock Series 50 padlock - my 1st breakdown

[Squelchtone]

i know this is an old thread but it was brought up in chat just now.

if i do drill the retaining pin or dremel of the round button on the bottom is there a way to replace it?

yes, but when I first posted that and called my local locksmith they siad it would be next to impossible to get the parts.

which I now is total BS because those kits are available. I just don't think the locksmith wanted to deal with me.

Squelchtone

[raimundo]

I think that squelchys able to pick those now.

I just cant understand why he cant get the retainer screw out, lefty loosy, righty tighty. Its a phillips.

[undercoverlover]

Thanks for the pics. I own a 50 series myself and i've always been tempted to pull the cylinder out and see whats inside but i don't think that i would be able to get them back in b/c i dont have the right plug follower. i had no idea such a cheap lock would be have so many crazy top pins. i have the hardware from a 5200. you can have it if you think it would fit.

[MacGnG1]

I think that squelchys able to pick those now.

I just cant understand why he cant get the retainer screw out, lefty loosy, righty tighty. Its a phillips.

yea i thought it was a phillips when i bought it stupid crazy retaining screw

[cppdungeon]

I have one that i cant pick too! It makes me sad and sits on my desk...taunting me. grr.

--Cpp

BTW, i might have some parts if you need them. I didnt check the date on that post tho..

[Pyrhhus]

Knowing squeltch can't (or more likely couldn't) pick this one makes me feel a lot better about myself. Since it comes apart pretty nicely I have been starting with one pin stack and working my way up. I am on 3 and can usually get it, but 4 is a doozy. I'll keep trying though. When I popped it open for the first time I couldn't believe all the serrations on that baby.

[JSEldred]

I have bump keys for these locks. Its about 25% effective for me. If anyone knows of a decoder for this lock I would LOVE to have it (JSEldred@gmail.com). I also have the repining kit, if anyone needs something out of it.

[tacedeous]

I have an un-picked 5200 too... one real prob, like a kid with a new toy, my dumb ass took it apart and because I had no clue about proper pinning procedure, reassembled it wrong.. now my key doesnt work and i cant pick it.. live and learn, LOL! on a side note, this will be my go-to padlock... im mean this thing in a shrouded version would be pretty tough... well at least for me... the again I guess you can bypass, but thats not a topic of discussion for these forums.

[raimundo]

tad, do the pin count, put a probe in and lift all the pins, pull it out and hear them click down, this will tell you if one collumn is missing its spring, it will also indicate if a collumn has only one pin in it, as the spring will not act on a lone pin as forcefully as on a collumn of two pins.

lets assume that you have top pins and bottom pins where they should be, if its assembled right, you can pick it, which means that you can move the plug a bit, but there could be issues with the plug-locking dog interface, if that linkage is not right, you may not be able to unlock it. But don't worry about that, its probably all right.

So you have a lock that has been recombinated by moveing the bottom pins to different positions. this can still be picked, and when you do that, dissasemble it again and put the pins in the plug with the key in the plug as you do it, that will clear up the combination issues.

YOu are using slimline picks arent you? these are not full size keyways, they are kinda small.

go light on the picking and don't wait for feed back, some of these locks don't give it very much.
most likely your problem is too much force, not too little.

be very aware of the tensor blade getting jammed, a wide tensor with an edge that is sanded and not capable of cutting into the brass of the cylinder wall is best. Most of your problems will be about tension, the wrong fit of the blade and too much force.

[tacedeous]

Wow thanks for the detailed response rai, to be honest i think i may have installed a bottom pin in an inverted position... (I know, nice noob move but i dont think that would make it impossible to pick... so at this point i think its just me...

[tacedeous]

again i wish i could add to an old post... but what u say about tension, really coincides with my new outlook on picking (less is more) especially regarding tension i forgot who said it first.. but i do believe you really do "tension" lock open rather than, "picking, it"

[Pancho]

I've recently started this hobby and I got my first pick set 2 days ago. I can now open a Kwikset deadbolt with no problem so I tough I would try something more interesting. I found one of these padlock in one of the "junkboxes" my father has in his backyard. After reading this thread I think I'm a little over my head and have one question my lock has in the back the letters "WFH" instead of the "UEN" any idea what that means? or where can I found some more info on it?


Thanks

[Squelchtone]

have one question my lock has in the back the letters "WFH" instead of the "UEN" any idea what that means? or where can I found some more info on it?

Date Code of manufacture.

I have an explanation of how to decode this to a month and year for your code listed in THIS thread.

Your lock was made in April '97, mine was June '01

Squelchtone

[poor paperclip picker]

Date Code of manufacture.

I have an explanation of how to decode this to a month and year for your code listed in THIS thread.

Your lock was made in April '97, mine was June '01

Squelchtone

Do you know what the "A" means on the bottom of the lock, on what you called " pop can tab looking thing"? Also on my american A1100 series, next to the manufacture code, there is a small "c" then a "3".

Don't mind the cut shackle, my friend lost the keys and used this to lock their shed. They had it cut, and knew I liked locks so he gave it to me.