HPC Speedex

[Eyes_Only]

Ok, so I've finally started to get sick and tired of cutting keys by code using depth/space keys on the FB machine. Need something more accurate, reliable and easier to use when practicing at home how to originate car keys for work. Really can't afford an HPC Blitz at the moment and I've gotten used to using d/s keys so I was thinking of getting either the Mini or Premier Speedex duplicator until I can afford a Blitz (which will probably be in the distant future, at least another year and a half or two).

Can anyone who has one or used one before attest to its quality or have any pros and cons regarding the machine? Whats the difference between the Mini and Premier besides for the bigger motor?

[MBI]

I have a Mini-Speedex (9120RM) and it's fantastic; probably the most accurate duplicator I've used. Compared with the Premier, the motor heats up quicker if I'm cutting large quantities of keys, and I have to slow down a bit more when cutting nickel silver keys, but otherwise it's just fine. The Premier has a larger base to accomodate the big motor, so it takes up a little bit more real estate on the work bench, and it also has a bit of a shroud around the deburring wheel.

Since you say it'll be a while before you can afford a Blitz, perhaps consider getting a 1200PCH instead as they're a few hundred bucks less and you have the ability to go mobile with it.

[Eyes_Only]

The HPC Punch machine is so very very tempting, believe me. I've considered getting one instead of the 1200 milling machine but from what I understand the standard milling HPC code machine can also cut Medeco keys, a feature I'll need when I want to cut those sidebar code keys mentioned in Marc Tobias's Medeco DVD/book which I'm sure the punch machine can't do.

I kind of have a feeling that if I buy the punch machine it'll end up collecting dust in the corner of my room eventually once I do get the 1200 Blitz and $1500 is not something I want to spend on a tool that will serve no use for me in the long run.

[Eyes_Only]

When you say the motor heats up when cutting a large quantity of keys, how many keys are we talking about here and for how many minutes?

[op-sec]

And is it getting hot to touch or are you smelling the windings heat up?

[MBI]

When you say the motor heats up when cutting a large quantity of keys, how many keys are we talking about here and for how many minutes?

I don't know exactly how long, but maybe around two dozen keys, one right after another. I didn't really keep track, I just notice that it heats up a lot under heavy use. I have an Ilco 044 semi-auto duplicator that I normally use when I have to crank out a ton of keys, but it's not nearly as accurate as my Speedex.

And is it getting hot to touch or are you smelling the windings heat up?

The motor can get uncomfortably hot to the touch under heavy use, but no burning odor or anything. It's probably just fine but I prefer to be cautious and leave it alone to cool down when it gets like that.

[Eyes_Only]

Thanks, good to know. I have a thermal radar thingy with the laser so I guess I'll be using that to occasionally check the motor after I cut between 12 to 24 keys consecutively.

Wanna know something else? I checked the prices of the Mini Speedex and shopped around for the best deal and LockPicks.com has the best price, even compared to some of the major locksmith supply houses like HL Flake. The cost also depends on whether you want an AC or DC model but for hobbyists who cut keys at home for fun, that shouldn't pose a concern.

[Eyes_Only]

Ok, I just ran into something weird. One of the main reasons I was looking into the HPC Blitz was so I can start cutting some of the thicker and tougher keys like the Subaru's X251 and the B106 for GM by code.

But here's the weird thing that's bugging me, when I try to cut a X251 key on my FB machine the cutter wheel starts slipping or something and it bites off a chunk off the blank and sometimes the key will even get snagged on the cutter and come flying off.

The B106 key though is much thicker and supposedly tougher to cut but it cuts like butter on the same crappy FB machine without any problems. Can anyone throw some insight on this for me? Cos this is pissing me off.

[kdlocks]

With some keys on my switch blitz you have to use shims to keeps some keys in the jaws. Also on the correct card for B106 it says to use "jaw B". I had lots of problems cutting that key but AAble locksmith tools sold me an adapter that works great for B106. The adapter also makes it easy to get the keys held right when there aren't any "1" depth cuts close to the tip. I think it's $30. Also HPC has a new "Automotive super jaw kit" to make it much easier to cut double sided auto keys ($139 @ HL Flake). It also comes with some new cards.

[Eyes_Only]

Forget paying $30 for that stupid shim, I made my own shim for the B106 using a 0.062 inch thick strip of aluminum from Home Depot and a round jewelers file. Works great on my FB machine at home and the HPC Blitz at work.

[Eyes_Only]

You know what? I think you were right about the shims. Instead of using a straightened out break-away key rings as a shim I made a better one out of the same aluminum strips I used to make the B106 shims and now I can cut the X251 key more smoothly now.

And for everyone that has or had a Speedex and Premier Speedex machines, how loud is the motor on those machines? The FB machine's motor is so loud that the noise can vibrate into the adjacent room and down into the floor below me so I'd like something that makes a little less noise.

[Engineer]

I've had noise problems with my machine too - Not a Speedex though. I stopped most of the vibrations travelling though, using a trick I thought of years ago when tumbling rocks for a display - I rest it on mousemats! Nothing sapecial, just four I found really cheap that were about 1/4" thick black "rubber" (Nitrile?). reduced the noise a lot as wel, so now they are a permanent feature under my machines. I got the ones that have a plain red fabric surface on them and they look suprisingly professional, like an up-market accessory you could buy for the machine from the actual manufacturers.

Well, it looks good for the customers and they leave a little less deafened. Also stopped the polite complaints from my neighbours...

Incidentally, any manufacturers reading this and wanting to sell thier own noise & vibration reducing mats now - We all KNOW where you got the idea from!

You know what? I think you were right about the shims. Instead of using a straightened out break-away key rings as a shim I made a better one out of the same aluminum strips I used to make the B106 shims and now I can cut the X251 key more smoothly now.

And for everyone that has or had a Speedex and Premier Speedex machines, how loud is the motor on those machines? The FB machine's motor is so loud that the noise can vibrate into the adjacent room and down into the floor below me so I'd like something that makes a little less noise.

[yoyoboy]

I've had noise problems with my machine too - Not a Speedex though. I stopped most of the vibrations travelling though, using a trick I thought of years ago when tumbling rocks for a display - I rest it on mousemats! Nothing sapecial, just four I found really cheap that were about 1/4" thick black "rubber" (Nitrile?). reduced the noise a lot as wel, so now they are a permanent feature under my machines. I got the ones that have a plain red fabric surface on them and they look suprisingly professional, like an up-market accessory you could buy for the machine from the actual manufacturers.

Well, it looks good for the customers and they leave a little less deafened. Also stopped the polite complaints from my neighbours...

Incidentally, any manufacturers reading this and wanting to sell thier own noise & vibration reducing mats now - We all KNOW where you got the idea from!

Nice tip! I've been using a variation of it under my speakers for years, first to keep my parents happy, and now my suite mates

[Eyes_Only]

I finally just took the machine off the crappy little bench I made and put it on the floor in my room. We have a thick enough carpet so that absorbs all the vibration. I just have to find a way to not make such a mess when cutting the keys now.