ejecting an SFIC cylinder without the "proper" tools?

[ridinplugspinnaz]

I'm having the hardest time getting the pin stacks out of one of my SFIC cylinders. Granted, I don't have the right tools to do it, in that I don't own a decode / dumping block or the ejector tool. The last time I dumped a cylinder, I did it with a mallet and a small allen wrench to eject the stacks, but it took forever to do it and was suboptimal, to say the least. If I'm inclined to keep the stacks in order too, it becomes extremely difficult to do so.

So do any of you hobbyists (or maybe frugal lockies) have some suggestions for doing this on a budget? I'm seriously considering putting down the cash for a proper block, but it seems something of a waste to do so given the high cost, and the fact that I only own a couple cores for playing around with. Looking forward to your suggestions!

[Trip Doctor]

I had the same problem as you. It seems ridiculous to pay over $100 bucks for basically a block with holes in it. I'd eject the pins the same way you have.. but putting them back in is a different story. To just mess around with picking, instead of putting back the top caps, I'd put the pins in and just firmly take up the top (although you have to double tape part of the other side of the top so the springs wouldn't stick to the tape, which surprisingly they did). I imagine this is different than doing it with actual caps, but it was just for messing around so was good enough for me. As for just organizing the stacks, I've seen a user on here use the insides of cardboard (the wavy stuff - the pins and springs stay nicely inside the 'waves') to keep the stacks organized.

[ridinplugspinnaz]

Yeah, I'm already using corrugated cardboard as a makeshift pinning tray, which is working nicely. The problem I'm running into is twofold — first, the lock I'm trying to decode just doesn't seem to want to give way when I'm using my little allen wrench as the ejector tool... the brass caps are in there really good. Second, when they finally do give way, keeping the stack straight as it's ejected is an entirely different pain in the butt. A further problem seems to be that the springs are getting mangled or otherwise super-compressed due to the way I'm trying to eject them. Truth be told I haven't even begun to worry about re-capping the core... but any advice on doing that would be great too.

[yoyoboy]

Suggestion for the future: Falcon cylinders come with a retaining strip instead of caps, much easier to deal without a pinning block.

[zeke79]

A drill press, a 2x4 or for better stability a piece of 4x4 scrap wood is a good start. First find a bit slightly larger than your core diameters and drill a hole for the top and a hole for the bottom parts of the core. Do this so that the top part of the core hole in the block of wood is about 1/4"-1/2" from the top of your block. Then using whatever means you have cut a strip from the top of the block so that when the core is inserted you have access to the top caps. Then, using an old shell and plug use an awl if you have one small enough in diameter to go through the shell and the plug and mark indents in the bottom of your new decoding block. Remove the old empty shell and plug and drill holes slightly larger than your pins and springs and deep enough to house both pins and springs. What you end up with is a block which will allow you to hold the core and drive the pins and spring out into the holes you drilled in the bottom. Now you can either drive one chamber out at a time and carefully dump the pins and springs in order or you can drill your pin storage holes clear through the bottom of the block and cap the bottom of the block with grub screws so you can remove them one at a time to allow the pins to fall neatly one chamber at a time. There are many ways to configure the bottom so it is easy to use. To hold the cylinder in, drill a hole at the side of the retention lug so you can lock it in with either a nail or a piece of wooden dowel so the cylinder does not move around when you are banging around on it.

Another method you might try is simply making your block as stated above and carefully sawing the block in half so it opens just like a standard decoding block. A small hinge on the back and a tight fitting wooden dowel or even a small pan head bolt and wing nut on the front to hold it closed and allow easy opening. If you do this, take into account that you will need to factor in the width of the blade you are cutting the block in half with and adjust all of your drilled holes accordingly so the lock cylinder still fits snug and the pin retaining holes in the block are still large enough to accomodate the pins and springs. Your best bet here would likely be to split your block first, then clamp it together, install the rear hinge, then drill your cylinder holes, the hole for whatever you are going to use to lock the cylinder in place with (a wooden dowel, nail, etc". Then remove the top section to allow access to your pin caps, then use an old unpinned cylinder to mark your pin holes and drill them. Do all of this with the block clamped securely together.

Using this method you can make a decoding block for a couple of dollars and will last well as long as you dont get too rough on it. As for driving the pins and caps out, look for a small punch or find an awl in a small enough diameter and then blunt the end of it flat with the diameter of it. That will give you something much better than an allen wrench. Or if you are going to use an allen wrench, atleast cut the top L section off of it so you can focus your striking force straight down.

Just an idea, hope it helps.

[ridinplugspinnaz]

Man does that make me wish I had a drill press... maybe I should look into that. While we're on the topic, can you think of anything that would work well as an improvised tool for recapping? I feel like the excessive length of the wrench leads to too much "sway" when you're trying to tap a cap back into one of the pin stacks. Granted, I haven't even gotten that far yet.

[straightpick]

Here's an easy way to do it. First, take a finishing brad, about a 3 penny size or one that will just fit into the ejection holes. Now file the point off so that the nail is flat the full diameter. Hole the core with the capped side in the palm of your hand, insert the brad, and tap it with a small hammer. Don't go nutso, you don't want to drive it through your hand. You will feel when the cap has come off. Hold the core with your free hand and rotate your hands back up so that the capped end is facing up.

Now you can slowly push the nail up until the crushed spring comes out, remove that and continue pushing up slowly, removing the pins one by one and place them in order. Then go to the next hole and repeat. I have done IC work for 15 years and this is the method I use to "eject" a single pin stack if I have to recode that chamber. Of course, I am not trying to keep them in order, just to empty that chamber.

[raimundo]

before all the fancy tools were available, the pinstacks were punched out with a 1/16" pin punch, or it may have been a 3/32nds". Zekes wooden jig is interesting, I would make it of some nice hardwood, since it can be made from some cabinet makers scrap barrel wood. and it will last long and be nice to work with. If you wish to keep pinstacks sorted and together, Use cocktail drink straws, bend or bend and glue or heat the ends shut.

[ridinplugspinnaz]

Thanks for all the input, guys, it's been immensely helpful. I've since found an old test lead (like from a multimeter) that happens to be just the right diameter for ejecting the pin stacks... as an added bonus it's flat on top, so a few light taps on the lead with a jeweler's hammer seems to be all it takes to either remove the stack or re-cap it. That plus my corrugated cardboard pinning tray, and I'm in business

One more question... is it normal to have to stretch out the springs after ejecting the stacks? Even with the better tools I have now, I always end up compressing the springs when I eject them. I figured maybe the right tools would avoid this problem, but perhaps that's just how it works with SFIC cylinders?

[Trip Doctor]

I remember someone from here who works with SFICs telling me that he would replace the springs after the whole ejection procedure after repining them for customers.

[ridinplugspinnaz]

I remember someone from here who works with SFICs telling me that he would replace the springs after the whole ejection procedure after repining them for customers.

Yeah, I'm thinking at this point that I might just break down and buy a small springs & caps kit from LAB or similar. Seems kind of a waste for just a couple practice cores, but at least they aren't nearly as expensive as a professional pinning block!

[keysman]

I remember someone from here who works with SFICs telling me that he would replace the springs after the whole ejection procedure after repining them for customers.

Yeah, I'm thinking at this point that I might just break down and buy a small springs & caps kit from LAB or similar. Seems kind of a waste for just a couple practice cores, but at least they aren't nearly as expensive as a professional pinning block!

Who ever told you to replace the springs was correct,

you can use a #2 master pin from a schlage kit (0.118 diam pin)for the cap

[yoyoboy]

I remember someone from here who works with SFICs telling me that he would replace the springs after the whole ejection procedure after repining them for customers.

Yeah, I'm thinking at this point that I might just break down and buy a small springs & caps kit from LAB or similar. Seems kind of a waste for just a couple practice cores, but at least they aren't nearly as expensive as a professional pinning block!

Interesting. Good tip!


Who ever told you to replace the springs was correct,

you can use a #2 master pin from a schlage kit (0.118 diam pin)for the cap

[WOT]

Like this:


The rod is the shank from a 1/16" drill bit. Cut it with a Dremel, then round off the end to minimize damage to the bottom pin.

Bottom pins will be damaged, so they SHOULD be replaced, but you don't have to.

Springs and caps MUST be replaced.

Putting it back together without a capping block? Forget it.

[ridinplugspinnaz]

Like this:

The rod is the shank from a 1/16" drill bit. Cut it with a Dremel, then round off the end to minimize damage to the bottom pin.

Bottom pins will be damaged, so they SHOULD be replaced, but you don't have to.

Springs and caps MUST be replaced.

Putting it back together without a capping block? Forget it.

So I guess it's safe to say that the spring will never come out of the lock quite like it went in, eh? That's unfortunate. What do lockies do with the springs and caps, recycle them or something? Seems like a waste of materials for those institutional guys who probably go through hundreds a year.