American padlock core

[Bitter Man]

Ok, I know this american padlock has a removeable/replaceable core. I look inside where the shackle goes and theres a phillips head screw. Now, I look at the bottom and there is a corrosponding end rivet-looking thingy. The whole piece that appears removeable is shaped like a figure 8 on the bottom. Now, I ask: can I remove the core without a plug follower? Because the whole piece looks like it retains the top pins as well. It would just be more convienient if I could pick just the mechanism without the body of the lock.

[Varjeal]

The answer is yes..that phillips screw threads into that "rivet-looking thingy". hehehe..anyways, when you remove the screw, the bottom plate (figure 8 shaped piece) will come off and the whole cylinder will fall into your hand, or on the floor.

You can then pick that cylinder outside of the body of the lock to your heart's content.

Hope that helps.

[Bitter Man]

Wow, i just took the core out and removed the pins. All serrated key pins, but only ONE spool driver. The other 4 are also serrated. Not all five are spool as originally thought. Its a 5300 series if that means anything to you.

[Varjeal]

Sounds like American is getting lazy...hehehe, or the padlock has been rekeyed at some point...did you say you bought it new?

Anyways, the short number one bottom pins for American are not serrated due to their length so the shallowest cut on that particular key would be at least a two. I am suprised there weren't more spool pins though...oh well...

BTW, Master pins/drivers can be swapped with American and vise versa... Just a bit of info some might not be aware of....they even use the same depths, though each company "numbers" them differently. For example, a "0" Master bottom pin is the same as an American "1" and so on.

[Bitter Man]

Yea i bought it new. It was in position 3. Too bad, I was taking it apart and all the springs came out, and I even broke one trying to turn the cylander again. 25$ down the drain...sigh.