When it comes down to it there is nothing better than manual tools for your Lock pick Set, whether they be retail, homebrew, macgyver style. DIY'ers look here.
by Engineer » 23 Jan 2009 18:18
Tuscarora, I'm becomming convinced you can never have too many picks. It is true you will probably prefer one over all the others, but that may be the STYLE that is working best for you, but you will find your favourite pick will not fit all locks. For instance, what about the small locks, or those with such restricted keyways that you can get your pick and wrench in, but there is not enough room for manipulation? Even Southord now sells two sets, one normal (0.025" thick) and a thinner (0.020") set of picks for the more restricted keyways. I am beginning to see the advantage of having your favourite picks/rakes in three different sizes - Normal, thin and normal thickness again, but about half the size for the small locks, like those popular Far East imports. These "micro-picks" are not commercially availabe that I've seen, so I've been recently making my own with quite stunning results for my box of "failures" (ones that I've never been able to pick). I am now picking about 80% of my failures in seconds. If this carries on and it's not some sort of fluke, then I'm going to work on the templates until I've got the designs about as effective as I can and release them to the group. It is sobering to realise how much easier it is to pick many locks when you have picks that are smaller than normal. Keep working on making lots of picks, it's good fun, you learn a lot and you can always keep the ones you don't use in a drawer or somewhere, just keeping your favourites handy. tuscarora wrote:That smallparts.com has a good inventory and decent prices/shipping to boot. Definitely gonna have to send a few quid their way in the near future. I was having a look at the feeler gauge I got and it's got a about three weights I think are possibilities. That said, I don't think there's neccesarily an ideal weight, as engineer mentioned some keyways are real restrictive, and of course some pins are very hard to move (and not just when you're being cack-handed at tensioning). I reckon I'd like a half diamond made out of real thick stock with as thin a shaft as I can get away with. It's my go-to pick for locks that are difficult to work with because it's a lot less delicate than a hook. Don't enjoy picking with it as much but it's a good tough shape. Ideally I suppose you'd have a collection with different weights of picks. Junior hacksaw blade for picks = fail, I've nearly managed to replace all my picks made from that stock. I think I'm'a make a snake rake or a single sided random rake (although I'm dubious about the usefulness of this tool given the curvy wards most of my locks have) next, and see if I can do those wooden handles a bit quicker and better! mr chris - I'd say that £2.32's not a great price given that I can get a hacksaw blade for 50p and 25' of stock from raimundo's link for $23! That said, I am a cheapskate  Stock wise, I got 40 virgins in the post from Clead, so that'll keep me going for a fair while!

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Engineer
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by ToolyMcgee » 23 Jan 2009 18:59
Pretty cool man. The more you pick with the handles you make, the more ergonomics you'll start carving in to compliment your different picking styles.
As a possible solution to the "sandwich" problem you could use steel pins. Shape the metal portion of the pick, drill two holes through, then drill a shallow hole into each handle scale that lines up with the pick and cut a pin to length to hold the pick together. Soften the sharp edges where you cut the pin so it doesn't ripp up your handle or get stuck. Invisible and it should allow you to remove the scales for finishing the metal, staining the handle, and help reinforce the glue bond once it's done.
Keep that good stuff comin'.
-Tooly
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ToolyMcgee
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by tuscarora » 25 Jan 2009 16:17
Engineer, I'd be interested to see those templates when you put them up. I'm thinking of miniaturising some picks, a curved keyway can really spoil your day - takes away most of the feedback from the pins because of all the friction trying to manouevre the tip.
Tooly, I'm considering just doing a one piece handle and using a tang for the next one. Although I do quite like the look of the sammich, it means your handles have to be too short, or you waste a lot of stock.. couse maybe that's just me being stingy again. The only thing I'd worry about in trying to use locating pins is drilling through the metal - I don't have a drill press and I've heard it's pretty tough going on the drill bits. I've seen an electrolysis tutorial for Falle style tension wrenches though, so I guess that could be adapted to punch a wee hole through.
Just remembered that I meant to buy some two-part epoxy and wood glue today. Got distracted by the "ONLY £1 ONLY!!" section. Picked up a combination padlock there though, so it ain't all bad. Also got myself a £10-special bench grinder, should save on those wee green dremel wheels.
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tuscarora
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by ToolyMcgee » 25 Jan 2009 17:29
tuscarora wrote:Tooly, I'm considering just doing a one piece handle and using a tang for the next one. Although I do quite like the look of the sammich, it means your handles have to be too short, or you waste a lot of stock.. couse maybe that's just me being stingy again. The only thing I'd worry about in trying to use locating pins is drilling through the metal - I don't have a drill press and I've heard it's pretty tough going on the drill bits. I've seen an electrolysis tutorial for Falle style tension wrenches though, so I guess that could be adapted to punch a wee hole through.
I know the feeling. I don't like using good steel up in the handle either. All the extra grinding and sanding, but I don't get the balance I want otherwise. Also, I don't have any way to cut a straight tang slot that thin so I would have to get creative, which always chews up alot of time... I don't have a proper drill press myself, but I have a dremel and some round tipped metal cutting and diamond bits that do the job nice for thinner steel. Lining everything up can take patience, but you gotta work with what you have sometimes. You'll have to let us see your partial tang when you finish it. The falle wrench electrolysis tutorial slipped my mind. Thanks for bringing it up. That might actually work for the high carbon steel and save me some headache. -Tooly
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ToolyMcgee
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by Engineer » 25 Jan 2009 23:35
I have now posted them at: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=17326&p=328905#p328905tuscarora wrote:Engineer, I'd be interested to see those templates when you put them up. I'm thinking of miniaturising some picks, a curved keyway can really spoil your day - takes away most of the feedback from the pins because of all the friction trying to manouevre the tip.
Tooly, I'm considering just doing a one piece handle and using a tang for the next one. Although I do quite like the look of the sammich, it means your handles have to be too short, or you waste a lot of stock.. couse maybe that's just me being stingy again. The only thing I'd worry about in trying to use locating pins is drilling through the metal - I don't have a drill press and I've heard it's pretty tough going on the drill bits. I've seen an electrolysis tutorial for Falle style tension wrenches though, so I guess that could be adapted to punch a wee hole through.
Just remembered that I meant to buy some two-part epoxy and wood glue today. Got distracted by the "ONLY £1 ONLY!!" section. Picked up a combination padlock there though, so it ain't all bad. Also got myself a £10-special bench grinder, should save on those wee green dremel wheels.

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Engineer
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