Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.
by Raymond » 26 Feb 2009 0:24
I thought that my previous explanation of the Hines trap pin might not be clear enough. The trap pin is a normal top pin with a hole drilled in one end about half way. The plug has the trap hole drilled about 15 degrees to one side with a very small hole saw. (.115" OD) The thin wafer will pass over the trap hole without falling in because of the center pin. But if in picking, the wafer is allowed to pick into the plug instead of staying above next to the trap pin, the trap pin will lock up the cylinder.
Nothing is foolproof to a talented fool. Wisdom is not just in determining how to do something, but also includes determining whether it should be done at all.
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Raymond
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by raimundo » 26 Feb 2009 8:36
well, that makes sense, since there is nothing to keep the trap pin from being bumped out of the way by the bumpkey its trapping. It may be a bit tricky to get it right, since you have to have the plug and cylinder aligned to have the pin move from one to the other. But that isn't such a big obstacle, you'd eventually get it right.
trap pin, glass relocker, dynamite bolt, all of these have heavy springs to prevent any kind of rapping to move the bolts once set.
Rapping is an old method of opening a lock that is held in the hand and struck with a hammer handle (wood) causeing the pins to jump inside the lock. Ive tried it, maybe it worked well in the old days, I don't know, but its part of the lore.
Wake up and smell the Kafka!!!
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by datagram » 26 Feb 2009 11:22
raimundo,
It still works against some of the really, really bad spring biased padlock bolts.
dg
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datagram
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by Jeckel » 26 Feb 2009 19:22
The only way from the trap pin from going back up that it would have to expand with in the pin cylinder with grooves, or a strong spring.
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by barbarian » 26 Feb 2009 21:38
I think the op was saying there was a long pin (9 cut) that was not aligned with the trap pins. The trap pins would just stop the plug from turning if the lock was bumped. The only reason to make them spools would be for pick resistance. So if you had trap pins at spots 2 and 5, then you would put the long pin at spot 3 or 4.
So the question is, if you have a lock with a 9 cut in it somewhere and you bump it, can you get the bumpkey out when the plug is turned say 90 degrees ?
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by datagram » 27 Feb 2009 11:30
barbarian wrote:So the question is, if you have a lock with a 9 cut in it somewhere and you bump it, can you get the bumpkey out when the plug is turned say 90 degrees ?
It depends on the lock, but for good ones I don't think it is normally possible. For example, a plug that has a flat mating surface with the cylinder might allow a key to come out because it allows pins that small extra bit of movement. dg
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by mhole » 27 Feb 2009 17:30
datagram wrote:barbarian wrote:So the question is, if you have a lock with a 9 cut in it somewhere and you bump it, can you get the bumpkey out when the plug is turned say 90 degrees ?
No, you can't. But that's because the core has turned, so the pin can't be pushed back into the bible. In your trap pin, the pin is still aligned with the hole containing the spring and top pin, so pulling the key will compress the spring and release the key.
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by barbarian » 27 Feb 2009 19:03
yono wrote:.....this feature should carry one deepest pin, not align with the trigger pins. this "deepest pin" will trapped the bumpkey.....
The deepest pin does not align with the trap pins.
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