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Making a tubular pick; update 2

Picked all the easy locks and want to step up your game? Further your lock picking techniques, exchange pro tips, videos, lessons, and develop your skills here.

Postby Archive555 » 14 Aug 2008 19:58

freakparade3 wrote:
Trip Doctor wrote:
maxxed wrote:If you are local I will let you measure mine


Woa woa... lets not get too exited here.. :lol:...


Are you guys sure your in the right forum? :P


I think they may be lost :D
[deadlink]http://img383.imageshack.us/img383/9965/sigjd3.png[/img]
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Postby nostromo » 17 Aug 2008 9:05

Wonderful project, Kranmer!!

If getting the Ace key dimensions starts taking too long, you can always go to the local locksmith and ask for a key cut to max depths. They'd probably be interested to hear about this project!!
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Postby tazman » 3 Oct 2008 1:19

:D very cool looks like the real deal.. :idea:
if the is a will the is away
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Postby ridinplugspinnaz » 3 Oct 2008 17:05

That's some gorgeous machine work, man. I'm curious, what does the material cost come out to be for the prototype you made?
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Re: Making a tubular pick; update 2

Postby pickmachinist » 5 Nov 2008 4:04

I love it. The tubular pick, not whatever you guys are wanting to measure!

Good job on the pick, I can't wait to see your next one.
I have made quite a few tubulars. Mostly brass and stainless, but a few out of aluminum. I posted pictures of a couple that I made in the "picks for sale" section. Small, simple, elegant, and most importantly.....they work!
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Re: Making a tubular pick; update 2

Postby raimundo » 6 Nov 2008 9:30

Very good work Kranmer, (is kranmer a shakespearian reference?) You have produced a very good copy of the commercial pick.
Now its time to get creative and produce a modification of your own. :D

bobby pins are the sliders that I use when I make a tubular pick,however that also usualy means that I will file and sand the quarter inch of the metal that actually goes into the keyhole, as the bobby pin metal is actually a bit too thick for grooves cut into a key. (I base mine on ace keys cut to the 8th depth, (thats fort lock co. 8 depth, similiar to ace depth 7)

I usually curl the ends of the sliders, not that straight and a bit sharp on the fingers bend that the commercial picks use.

the picks I make from keys, are actually very small, about a quarter inch to go into the lock, maybe 5/8 inch shaft for the black O rings to operate on and then the sliders are curled back. Theres only a two finger hold for the handle, the job actually dosent require a full screwdriver handle.

I have one ace pick that a machinest helped me make cutting it to my design.
This one is a bit longer, but less than 3 inches, consists of a tube the inside and outside diameter of the keyblank, with 8 slider grooves in it. thats about two inches long, the sliders once again are curled for finger handling. On this piece the sliders are made from sweeper bristle from the curb brush of one of those little sweeper machines that are sometimes seen in parking ramps or lots. This metal is significantly smaller than regular sweeper bristle, and its exactly perfect for the pick tube that I described.

Inside this thin tube, there is a core that is another thicker tube, on which the tip to enter the keyslot on the locks center stem is completely mobile so that it can operate in the seven pin, offset right, offset left, and the 8 pin locks of this diameter, It can even open the type of bicycle lock that has no center stem keyslot, by simply using the black 0 rings as the handle. ( these types of locks pickup the center stem with thier pins, rather than the keyslot.)

I mention this here because you have the capability to produce a very good tool, and just copying the commercial picks is only a start, there is a lot you can do to make a better than commercial pick.

My reccomendation is to make the tool as light as possible, by drilling out any solid rod areas that only need the outer dimension.
When the pick is heavy, it has the capablity of crushing the delicate edge of the pick tip if it is dropped, so lightness is an important consideration

These are suggestions for what you may want to consider, I am not stepping on you achievment, You have done some excellent work there.
Wake up and smell the Kafka!!!
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Re:

Postby awol70 » 7 Apr 2009 22:41

Kranmer wrote:I will do that, thanks for letting me know..


I have a question for everyone.. What would you use for the pins?? I was thinking of unwinding a clock spring and hammering it to remove the radius bend but I dont have any more clock parts left lol. I am outa ideas with the exception of spending money on bobby pins which is not a big deal except I dont feel like making a trip - gas prices you know :P

I also understand that the bobby pins need to be thinned out, another pain in the neck I would like to avoid. I can see these strips of metal I just cant think where I saw them and what they were used for.

I put it to the crowd here - what would you use?

the best thing i have ever found for the fingers on a homebrew tubular pick,is the long skinny strip of spring steel,inside the outer circumference of "collapsible",or "folding" frizbees.
usually given away as a promotional advertising gimmick or in "happy meals" and such.
it is the exact width to sit in a tubular keycut,and one frizbee has 2 feet or so of this springy strip.
stumbled upon by accident...now i am always on the lookout for them in thrift stores,yard sales,flea markets,value village,etc.
"the more you pick the more you open...the more you open,the more you pick"
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Re: Making a tubular pick; update 2

Postby raimundo » 12 Apr 2009 9:44

I use hairpins, the common bobby pin. the thickness of the metal is a bit to high in the grooves I cut in the prepared keyblank, but I cut down the width in the part that enters the lock, thats the last quarter inch or so. that they stand a bit high in the groove is good, it make for positive and equal effect from the black O ring pressure.

I use the ones that are flat on both sides, but if I used the ones that are round on the outer part and flat on the inner part, I would apply them so that the round part is to the outside, otherwise they would cause trouble by slipping out of the groove.

I do not like the way commercial picks leave the slider ends sticking out from the tool in ways that are sharp and can bother fingertips, I use the bend at the end of the hair pin to make a rounded handle for the sliders. its so much easier on the fingers.

On the yahoo groups locksports forum I left two photos, that may show a couple of these picks, one is titled bohnsey the cat, and the other is under the locks album, you would have to search a bit to find them both, one is just a closer view than the other, the scene is the same. a cat and some picks piled on a bed. There may be other photos of these on the lp101 site, but I couldn't tell you where, I don't often post photos here, as it requires registering at a photo host site, and while they may delete your photos eventually, they will probably go on selling your personal info forever.
Wake up and smell the Kafka!!!
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Re: Making a tubular pick; update 2

Postby raimundo » 12 Apr 2009 9:48

I should read the entire thread before I post :oops:
Wake up and smell the Kafka!!!
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Re: Making a tubular pick; update 2

Postby kapu » 26 Apr 2009 9:28

Nice shop! I'm jealous. My shop consists of an aging human beer controlled bastard file.
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Re: Making a tubular pick; update 2

Postby kapu » 26 Apr 2009 9:31

kapu wrote:Nice shop! I'm jealous. My shop consists of an aging human beer controlled dog file.


I type B A S T A R D, and it replaces it with Dog? Odd. bas-tard is a legit name for a file.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File_(tool)
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Re: Making a tubular pick; update 2

Postby Legion303 » 26 Apr 2009 22:12

Blame phpBB's nanny list of "offensive" words. If this were a dog breeding forum it would be hard to talk about the females properly. I don't think DB or any of the other admins can change the default wordlist.

-steve
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