FAQ: The Fine Art of Impressioning (in a nutshell)

[zeke79]

NKT,

One thing I have found invaluable when I can impression at the bench is to use my HPC softie type brush that comes on the blitz, I first cut all locations to the first cut then buff with the softie brush until all bitting areas appears hazy. Then repeat your normal process of applying tension left/right and rocking key up and down or tapping it/etc. I find the finish the softie brush gives ends up showing marks perfectly to my eyes. All non marking pin chambers still have a hazy finish on the blank in those locations and binding pins will leave a nice gleaming mark in the binding position/s. Even if you do not have a blitz, using a softie brush instead of a wire type brush used on framon or some other units you should have some more luck.

In the field you can loose this luxury so practicing with just a set of impressioning files and either a flashlight or as I use, an LED headlamp with both red and white led options. I find that sometimes the red will show a mark that the white light will show in certain circumstances. I do however have standard keys prepped for impressioning. They are cut to the first depth in all locations with either my blitz or my ITL then I buff the bitting areas until hazy with the blitz softie brush. This keeps me on track for the spacing every time. As said, I just keep a several of each common keyway such as KW1, KW10, SC1, SC4, M1, etc. If I start to bend a blank or notice stress marks around the shoulder I will take it to the duplicator and make a copy so I don't end up snapping a blank. Cheap soft blanks always work best instead of nickel silver or more expensive higher quality blanks. The cheap soft blanks always mark easier as one would expect.

I have by no means what I would consider a strong set of impressioning skills but have pretty good luck up to schlage brand 6 pin locks. I have yet to impression a best lock though, the tolerances are just too close and I end up filing a bit too deep getting in a hurry.

[cledry]

A couple of points, perhaps they have been covered, but I didn't see them.

If doing a car lock you may find that certain locks only have wafers or pins in certain locations. For example a trunk lock may contain 5 wafers, the door may have more, usually the ignition will have all the wafers. Occasionally the ignition will be sidebar but the doors and trunk aren't, you can impression most of a key and progress an ignition. Usually when impressioning a car, use the trunk and passenger door locks as they will have less wear and make better marks, also they will produce a key that is closer to what you need. If you do the worn out driver's lock it may turn and get you in, but won't work any of the other locks it is supposed to. On older Chrysler pin tumbler locks it is very common to have a problem if the lock has a shallow first pin, usually on the driver's door.

You can also easily impression tubular locks with a little practice. For these grind of the outer part of the nib of the key flush with the barrel and also grind the sides of the tubular portion adjacent to the head of the key. You want your vise grips on the barrel not on the head of these keys.

I will probably think of a few more things, I've been doing this for a long time.

[hankg]

Lock Impressioning defiantly deserve to be called art!
it takes a lot of experience (and talent) to get it done...

[Rabs Locks]

thanks very much for the detailed info.
nice one !

[JNZ123]

A very nicely detailed review, thank you! :D

[jos weyers]

I think it will be good to see this book translated into english, it shows some new impressioning techniques:

http://www.toool.nl/blackbag/?p=94

Here's a video of the author making a key in a few minutes:

http://www.tresoroeffnung.de/downloads/impressionsmeisterschaft2005.wmv 4.6mb

Sorry, but I just HAD to submit this video in this thread.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LfmxsXlL-o8

If you compare Oli's technique in both video's you'll see four years goes a long way in competitive impressioning.

Mr. Diederichsen is a true sportsman, and a great teacher. I highly recommend his book. (which HAS been translated into English)

[jos weyers]

what the *bleep* happened to the BBcodes?¿?

[unlisted]

what the *bleep* happened to the BBcodes?¿?

Nothin..

[jos weyers]

[quote="unlisted"]Nothin.. :wink:[/quote]
*ahum* for some weird reason they were not showing yesterday.
(but are now...)

[CptedIV]

I can't see any marks ever.... I've tried everything from holding the key over a candle to crayon, permanent marker, dry erase marker, crayon, nothing, what works?? How hard do you turn the key before shaking it up and down, and how hard do you shake it? Do the marks show up only on the top or the side also?


Ed

[jos weyers]

How hard do you turn the key before shaking it up and down

Just enough for the pins to get stuck. If no marks appear, apply more. Try not to over-do it.

and how hard do you shake it

Just enough for the marks to appear. If no marks appear, wiggle differenty (not harder).

Do the marks show up only on the top or the side also?

It should be on the top, but can be that much off-centre that it almost looks to be on the side.

good luck !

[Tampa Locksmith]

Great guide, many thanks for taking time out to write this.

[akmw44]

Hi Gents,
Its the way forward for many locksmiths,heres a link thats useful
http://www.lockwiki.com/index.php/Impressioning
The site has other interesting stuff.
I tried the candle and soot method =worked well.
I have a couple of certifications in NDT (non destructive testing),I hold PCN L2 in Magnetic particle inspection and PCN L2 in Dye penetration ,both are used in detecting surface defects in metals ie welds ,pipes etc ,mainly on Nuclear and other power stations .
We use Dye pen on Non Ferrouse materials like stainless steel.
Ive recently started looking at impressioning in the light booths at work,as a senoir manager its no problem to spend as much time as i need .
This has helped in my first steps at impressioning and the results ive achieved as a novice are remarkable .
Ile post the methods and spec ie materials ,light sources ,time of penetrant soak at a later date,but as I say this is an overlooked part of the industry and any one with half a brain can see its got massive potential.

[BigRob40]

After reading some materials and starting out with the basics I have found thats it becomes easier the more you practice with the techniques listed here in the forums. If attempting this for the first time try a warded master padlock that uses a basic steel key. Try smoking the key blank ( use the key blank that comes with the lock for reference, I use a household candle). The marks can be difficult to see at first but you will get better if you keep practicing. After you know what to look for try a few different locks to improve your skill.
A few things ive noticed as a beginner myself is:

1. I find it easier to see the marks under regular light by turning the blank.

2. Use a matching key for marking centers or any other tool that can help determine depths and spacings.

3. Get a good set of files mentioned in the forums you wont regret it.

4. Patience & Practice - this is a skill that is learned and takes time to master.

I can now see how this skill can be useful as a working locksmith or even for the hobbiest interested in impressioning a key and once again this site has been incredibly informative

[miket]

Firstly, Great thread, lots of info and tips. Thank you all.

I impressioned my first key 10 or 11 years ago, when my girlfriend at the time left her rooming house keys, three hours away at home, over christmas holidays, she managed to get her self into the house through a window, and I came over that night and somehow managed to make a key on my first go, first blank (yay me?)

I hadn't thought much of impressioning until recently when I came across a pair of American padlocks, and a pair of Master 576's with no keys, I managed to get one master and one american rather easily, but while working on the other of each I murdered (read overcut) my last blanks. An idea came to me, which I haven't heard of other than it being mentioned a few pages back in this thread with no response. I took my blanks, all filed to 0's, and pinched them flat side down to an aluminum plate, and built up the blade with solder. With a little scraping and filing they were all back to an almost perfect uncut condition, so I decided to give them a try. I used 80/20 electronic solder, they filled very easily and marked incredibly well, these two locks had burned ~3-4 blanks each for me with no success, and with the solder method I had both in under 45 minutes opening smooth and reliably. The keys read within .002" to where the factory cut depths should be and will be reproduced in real blanks shortly. I also took both locks and tapped them keyway down, on a steel plate with a piece of white paper in between to see how much lead scraped off during the insertion / wiggle, there was suprisingly little.

Just my 2 cents, I may try making a silicone mold of a few blanks that i can take to all 0's and pour lead into to see if this is reliable without the extra prep, thinking this may also work well for tubular locks, which I have not tried to impression before, but my thinking is you could cut depths with a small modified chisel..

Thanks for reading,
Mike