European hardware -lever locks, profile cylinders specific for European locks. European lock picks and European locks.
by sfi72 » 5 Mar 2009 18:42
I can't seem to figure it out, the lock is a Abloy disklock pro, and it's a euro half cylinder. There appears to be a little pin holding the back plate on, but I don't really want to break anything by doing it the wrong way. Any help would be appreciated.
<jkthecjer> this kwikset did not yield so easily
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by FrenchKey » 5 Mar 2009 19:00
a photo might help.
There is no retaining C-Clip between the black plate and the half cylinder ? If there is, just open the C-Clip and the plug will come with the key.
In some euro-cylinder, you must drill or cut something for disassembling (mostly in high security locks)
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by sfi72 » 5 Mar 2009 19:27
Here's a couple pictures of the cylinder: http://www.sfi72.com/Abloy_top.jpghttp://www.sfi72.com/Abloy_side.jpgThe pin off to the right in the top picture is the one that I think I might have to knock or drill out. If there is anyway to take the lock apart without drilling it, that would be great.
<jkthecjer> this kwikset did not yield so easily
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by mh » 6 Mar 2009 16:03
you are holding your lock upside down, it will become seasick  I believe you will have to drill or mill out the crushed pin (or ball?) that's roughly in the middle of the lock in the upper picture. I don't have a picture of that particular system right now, but you can see the general concept of how these are assembled from the KESO system: http://www.keso.com/Other/KESO/mechanik ... losion.jpgCheers, mh
"The techs discovered that German locks were particularly difficult" - Robert Wallace, H. Keith Melton w. Henry R. Schlesinger, Spycraft: The secret history of the CIA's spytechs from communism to Al-Qaeda (New York: Dutton, 2008), p. 210
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by sfi72 » 12 Jun 2009 16:13
Yeah, I figured it out there was a pin in the back that needed to be drilled out. My guess is that it was there to keep people from being able to disassemble it without any evidence.
<jkthecjer> this kwikset did not yield so easily
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sfi72
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by SnowyBoy » 16 Jun 2009 11:34
It's just the circlip holding it. But it's not a regular circlip, it is an inverse one that holds the barrel in the lock on the outside edge, not the inside.
You need to get the circlip out, then push the disc stack and barrel out through the back from the front of the keyway.
BE CAREFUL WHEN YOU DO THAT! There is a sprung half moon wedge that the locking bar sits in, before pushing the plug out, cover the entire lock with a cloth becase that half moon & spting will ping out of there at warp speed, trust me.
What a load of old BiLocks!!!!
I'm probably 0 for 400 in looking for safes behind wall paintings
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by sfi72 » 16 Jun 2009 14:26
If you look in the pictures, there is no clip and there was a pin holding a brass piece on to the back of the lock. I had to drill out the pin here. So that I could remove this. Once that was gone, the cam slid off and I could remove the disk pack. As you can see here and here, there was no clip holding the back of the lock on.
<jkthecjer> this kwikset did not yield so easily
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sfi72
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by SnowyBoy » 18 Jun 2009 15:06
sfi72 wrote:If you look in the pictures, there is no clip and there was a pin holding a brass piece on to the back of the lock. I had to drill out the pin here. So that I could remove this. Once that was gone, the cam slid off and I could remove the disk pack. As you can see here and here, there was no clip holding the back of the lock on.
That's what I'm saying.... you don't need to drill that pin If you had punched the silver pin out on the side, the back would have pulled out with the rod that its attached to. It's a brass rod with 3 locating holes drilled in it so you can adjust how far the lock face protrudes out of the door when you fit it. Trust me, I've cut one away, I know it like the ins and outs of a ducks arse! 
What a load of old BiLocks!!!!
I'm probably 0 for 400 in looking for safes behind wall paintings
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SnowyBoy
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by sfi72 » 18 Jun 2009 15:13
SnowyBoy wrote:That's what I'm saying.... you don't need to drill that pin If you had punched the silver pin out on the side, the back would have pulled out with the rod that its attached to. It's a brass rod with 3 locating holes drilled in it so you can adjust how far the lock face protrudes out of the door when you fit it. Trust me, I've cut one away, I know it like the ins and outs of a ducks arse! 
Ahh, yeah I couldn't see any way to get THAT pin out, it was crushed and it makes sense what it was there for now. It's too late now, but if I get another one of these and I need to take it apart, I wont needlessly drill out a pin. Thanks!
<jkthecjer> this kwikset did not yield so easily
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sfi72
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by SnowyBoy » 18 Jun 2009 17:10
sfi72 wrote:SnowyBoy wrote:That's what I'm saying.... you don't need to drill that pin If you had punched the silver pin out on the side, the back would have pulled out with the rod that its attached to. It's a brass rod with 3 locating holes drilled in it so you can adjust how far the lock face protrudes out of the door when you fit it. Trust me, I've cut one away, I know it like the ins and outs of a ducks arse! 
Ahh, yeah I couldn't see any way to get THAT pin out, it was crushed and it makes sense what it was there for now. It's too late now, but if I get another one of these and I need to take it apart, I wont needlessly drill out a pin. Thanks!
It's pretty easy to pop it out.... it is intended to for the fitter. Remember to watch out for that sprung half moon segment 
What a load of old BiLocks!!!!
I'm probably 0 for 400 in looking for safes behind wall paintings
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