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Reading locks ?????????????

Having read the FAQ's you are still unfulfilled and seek more enlightenment, so post your general lock picking questions here.
Forum rules
Do not post safe related questions in this sub forum! Post them in This Old Safe

The sub forum you are currently in is for asking Beginner Hobby Lock Picking questions only.

Reading locks ?????????????

Postby pickersRus » 18 Aug 2004 12:19

:cry: Now I really am confused , what on earth is reading a lock ? I know it consist of looking into the lock and using a tool to estimate the pin sizes but after reading and searching and studying I am even more confused than ever. Could someone please explain in simple terms just how this process is supposed to work ? I am completely lost on this subject so any and all info will be a great help. Thanks
Jeanas Skeleton key
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Postby locksmistress » 18 Aug 2004 13:06

First step, learn a lot about the lock. How many pin/wafer sizes are there? Are they color coded, and if so what colors are what sizes? What distinguishes different size wafers - usually a notch or a corner or something. This information is obtainable from mfrs specifications and from taking apart a lot of stuff and looking at it really closely.

On pin tumbler locks, reading is really only useful to identify very short pins which correspond to very shallow cuts. Unless you have the colored pins and know what they mean.

On some wafer locks, especially those with only three to five sizes of wafers, it is theoretically possible to 'read' the whole lock.

Reading locks is most often a way to get a little inside information to help picking or impressioning. It is not really common to be able to 'read' a whole core and cut a key (except for select groups of cylinders).

Your knowledge seems pretty thorough - your expectations may be a little high as far as what's possible with 'reading'. But as with most everything else on this site, it's mostly about practise and being able to tell a fraction of an inch difference in identical-looking parts.
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getting there but still confused

Postby pickersRus » 18 Aug 2004 13:15

thanks for the info locksmistress , I guess my real problem with reading is what exactly am i supposed to judge the pins against ? Am I supposed to be able to judge the pins by just "guessing" their size or is there something I should compare them to or what ?
Jeanas Skeleton key
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Joined: 10 Jul 2004 23:37
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Postby HeadHunterCEO » 18 Aug 2004 17:25

say you pull a lock out of the door of a 1706 series ford

stick a key blank in and look at how the wafers now sit at diffrent alttitudes.

guess the cuts and cut a key.

reinsert and see if you are right

if you are not cut deeper until you are.

if you think it is a 5 cut it to 4 first.

reading locks is almost mandatory on 10 cut fords doors locks.
Doorologist
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Postby Romstar » 18 Aug 2004 17:29

In any given lock, the depths and spacings are a known quantity.

Normally reading a lock is associated with wafer and disc locks, but can be applied to pin tumbler locks.

Even in the Corbin and Medeco wedge type pins, they are known pin depths, and spacings.

Examine the first pin you can see. A lock scope is a great tool for this, but certainly not a necesity. A well lit area, or a small flash light is essential.

If you can see the shear line of the pin, you have a very seriously short pin. Most likely a 2. It's entirely unlikely that you would have such a short pin in the front of the lock, so now we have to examine the pins.

Drive the pin up into the cylinder, and see how far it goes. Excepting different length drivers, you should be able to estimate the size of that pin, and the corresponding key depth for it.

Continue on to the next pin. until you have done each of the pins. Use what you have discerned from pushing them all the way up, and guesstimate the depths of the pins. This gets much easier with practice and familiarity with the different lock types.

Another way to do this is by probing the lock with a wedge shaped feeler guage with a long tappered point.

Insert the guage all the way into the lock, and compress all the pins up into the cylinder. Then, ease off the guage until pin 5 drops. Keep the edge of the guage against the side of the pin, and you may find the shear line.

Probe with the gauge until you find a shear line. If a shear line is found, drive the tip of the gauge between the lower pin and the driver as far as it will go. Note the distance the gauge went in.

This will tell you the height of the lower pin based upon the depth of the gauge. The deeper the gauge goes between the pins, the shorter the pin, and consequently, the higher the key cut. The less the guage goes in, the longer the pin, and the deeper the key cut.

If you cannot find a shear line, you have a very long pin, and as a consequence, a very deep cut.

Based upon your knowledge of the lock in question, and it's known depths and spacings, you can estimate what each pin size is. This would allow you to attempt to cut a key, or enhance your ability to pick the lock for proper decoding.

Making a key using these methods is a great thing, but if you are dealing with a master-keyed lock, your best bet would be to pick, and disassemble the lock for decoding, and make a key based upon that information.

Good lock, and keep practicing.
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