Union rim cylinders... gotta love 'em!

[Solomon]

This came in the post this morning, just wanted to share. It's beautiful, and different to all the rim cylinders I've seen in more ways than one.



As you can see, it has a restricted keyway and the plug has a code stamped on it. I'm guessing this is the factory code for the key profile, but who knows. It may be better key security, but when it comes to picking, this thing may as well be an SC1.



And here are the keys, also marked with the same code. When I normally look at keys, a number of things go through my head, but very rarely do I think "these are freakin cool". They're thick and solid, like ASSA keys, and the finish gives them a really unique look. It doesn't come across in a picture, but when you're holding these in your hand there's just something about them that looks and feels really cool.



This is where it gets interesting... the back of the cylinder has 2 screws above where the retaining screws go. They're holding some kind of plate over the back of the cylinder, but because I haven't taken them out I'm not sure what it's really for. I haven't got any stuff for disassembly otherwise I would have stripped the whole thing down for you guys, and for now I'm not keen on the idea of removing those screws incase there's a nasty surprise waiting for me in there. If anyone else has info, feel free to share! Oh yeah, and before I forget, take a look at that circlip... very different to what you normally see.



The top of the cylinder has these 2 bits milled out, and there isn't anything in there. I'm not sure what the purpose of these is, but my first guess would be that a couple of rods inside the door could lock into place where these millings are, to give the cylinder more strength against pulling/twisting attacks. I'm probably way off though, so again, if anyone is familiar with these locks please let us know.



Last but not least, the lock in all its picked glory. I was a little surprised though, as it didn't give me much trouble. I'm not the best at SPP, but the way the plug behaves is a little strange. The plug rotates a fair bit after setting the first few pins, so it feels like a false set like you get with spools... but there is no counter rotation when I go over the pins again - instead, they just set normally and it pops open. There may be a combination of spools and serrated drivers in there, but I'm not sure. Union locks all have security pins of some description, at least that's what I've been led to believe, so I guess this will remain a mystery until I take it apart. That being said, I'm sure someone out there has taken a similar cylinder apart... and thanks to the encyclopedic knowledge held by some of our members here it may not be long before someone chimes in with some pics. Fingers crossed!

Hope you guys liked the pics. You can also view the full pick here - if you can stand my accent long enough.

[thelockpickkid]

Hey man! Great pictures! That number on the lock face seems to be a model, correct me if I am wrong! That is a neat lock, what sort of pinning does it have? You said you don't have the tools to take it apart, you can't screw anything up! It would be a great learning experience, take it apart, then if you have any questions on putting it back together just ask us, we will help!

[Solomon]

Hey man! Great pictures! That number on the lock face seems to be a model, correct me if I am wrong! That is a neat lock, what sort of pinning does it have? You said you don't have the tools to take it apart, you can't screw anything up! It would be a great learning experience, take it apart, then if you have any questions on putting it back together just ask us, we will help!

Thanks man! It's all good, I've taken one apart before. Was a bit of a nightmare though, as the only thing I had to use as a plug follower was a bit too small. I completely banjaxed the circlip aswell, turns out a screwdriver and cheap pliers is not the way to go... I really need to get myself a proper tool for those.

As for the pinning, I'm guessing by the way the plug behaves - along with the fact that most union padlocks have serrated drivers in them - that there is at least one of those in there somewhere. Of course there's no way to be sure until I actually do strip it, so I'll definately do that if I get the chance. Don't hold your breath though, I'm not fond of stripping them because it's so fiddly getting the springs and pins back in. Not to mention the circlip on this thing... have you ever seen one like this before? I'm not sure exactly how to remove this kind, as it seems you need to squeeze it together then slide it out, and the tail piece somewhat gets in the way of that.

[something_clever]

It's hard to tell in the picture, but it looks like you just squeeze the tabs on the clip together and then lift it over the bar that comes out the back (not sure what it's called). I'm pretty sure a pair of needlenose would take care of it, no problem.

[mhole]

You don't need a plug follower for a union like that - remove the two dome head screws that you were worrying about and it will all become clear.

The brass plug and bible are separate from the body of the cylinder, and are held in place by the semi-circlular plate. They look like a KIK cylinder, but without anything retaining the pin stacks when they're out the alloy (grey metal) body, so you can empty out all the pins and springs without removing the plug. I think this design was intended to reduce the amount of brass used in the construction of the lock, as it allows the main body of the cylinder to be a cheaper alloy casting, with a thin brassed face fromed over the front.

The reason the lock acts wierdly when picked is that there is a small counterbore around the hole in both the plug and the bible, allowing quite a lot of movement when the pins are almost at shear, but not quite. I'd be surprised to see any security pins in that cylinder, but I could well be wrong.

[aussielocky]

No security pins. Also it should be master keyed. The funny movement as mentioned above is due to the counterbore.

[Scott_93]

I was once told by a locksmith that theses are used on some fire escapes =)

[Rickthepick]

those things are ancient...

[Solomon]

You don't need a plug follower for a union like that - remove the two dome head screws that you were worrying about and it will all become clear.

The brass plug and bible are separate from the body of the cylinder, and are held in place by the semi-circlular plate. They look like a KIK cylinder, but without anything retaining the pin stacks when they're out the alloy (grey metal) body, so you can empty out all the pins and springs without removing the plug. I think this design was intended to reduce the amount of brass used in the construction of the lock, as it allows the main body of the cylinder to be a cheaper alloy casting, with a thin brassed face fromed over the front.

The reason the lock acts wierdly when picked is that there is a small counterbore around the hole in both the plug and the bible, allowing quite a lot of movement when the pins are almost at shear, but not quite. I'd be surprised to see any security pins in that cylinder, but I could well be wrong.

That's some top notch info right there. Very well explained, thanks mhole! I need a follower for putting it back together though; if I leave anything disassembled and wander off to do something else, stuff tends to go missing.

No security pins. Also it should be master keyed. The funny movement as mentioned above is due to the counterbore.

I'd say we're agreed on the security pin issue then... if it's master keyed aswell that'd definately explain why it was so easy to pick.

those things are ancient...

You know you love it.