Sanding jig for picks

[Xarragon]

Today I was trying out to wet-sand a pick I was making. I found it somewhat awkward to run the pick on the paper without sanding just the edges. So I came up with this simple jig to help get even pressure on all of the pick.



It is basically a piece of birch wood and a hose clamp. Very high-tech indeed. Only problem is that I managed to get the pick angled, probably due to the birch being soft and the hose clamp binding on only one side due to how it is tightened. This caused me to sand the tip of the hook pick very, very thin. I can actually almost use it as a cylinder shim, or at least the tip. So this construction isn't really a winner...

Anyone else got something similar to recommend?

[NanoDuke]

What about cutting a recess into the wood, and gluing some strong neodymium magnets into it.

Or secure the pick onto the table, and sand it using a sanding block. Move the paper, not the pick.

[Xarragon]

Yeah, I think you are right NanoDuke. The classic method of just sanding with a piece of square wood with the sand paper wrapped around it is probably the easiest way. I was just trying out something random to keep the water on the paper via gravity (I've always used wet sanding with the paper stationary for some reason).

[NanoDuke]

Are there heaps of scratches on the pick in that photo?

Normally you use wet/dry paper as the final step. It should be so fine that it doesn't affect the overall structure of the thing you're sanding.

If you're sanding along the edge of the pick, then maybe you don't have the metal flat enough, and you should step up to a coarser grade paper instead.

[Xarragon]

Yep, it is pretty scratched alright. The paper shown is 120 grit, I tried sanding with until I had gotten all the deep scratches sanded down. The next step after was 180 followed by 400. When the photo was taken I had only applied 120 grit. To be honest we were kind of short on sanding paper in the shop so I'm trying some different grits and paper types. This paper was a set of three grits specified as wet... so I just winged it.

I use hacksaw blades, and these do come with a paint coating which I usually grind off using a grindstone in a multitool. But it seems this creates deep "scars" in the metal which I have trouble sanding off, so next time I'll probably just use sanding to remove the paint as well.

I'm pretty new to this, as you might tell from our conversation.

[NanoDuke]

And I'm younger by another 6 days

Since you have a multitool, use the coarsest attachment you have to get rid of the top coating. The wire brush fitting might do the trick.
Then use one of the sanding stone to finish off your shape, and get the last of the coating off.

When sanding you want to run the paper along the length of the pick. Get all the scratches going in the same direction. Try to avoid swirling motion if you can help it.
Start with the lowest number paper you can find. Sure it'll make some deep scratches, but your first step is finalising the shape of the pick, and getting it flat.

Then as you're sanding, watch the scratches, and look for the larger scratches disappearing.
Then step it up to a finer paper.

You want to work your way up to 1200 or higher paper to finish off the pick. Sure, you can jump straight to the 1200, but it'll take forever, and you'll go through heaps of paper, too.

Try 1200 while dry, then add water.


400 is just too coarse to get a nice finish.

[Xarragon]

Sanding shouldn't be this complicated. But trust me to manage to over-complicate anything and screw it up, heh. I think it will work smoothly if I just use some square block to strap the paper to and sand by hand, just like you said. I have no idea what the hell I was thinking when I came up with this "solution". Lucky I have sane people here that can put me back on track.

Many thanks for all your help, NanoDuke. Hopefully I can get em picks nice and shiny now.

[NanoDuke]

No problem. I just know what you mean, I've had the same problem myself. You have to understand that the hacksaw blades or sweeper bristles aren't perfectly flat. As you begin to sand, you're just removing the edges first, which are slightly raised. Keep sanding/grinding further and you can get at the middle of the metal. That's why in your photo you can see the silver edges of your pick, while the inside is still black.

Grab your multitool again, and get at it until it's all silver and raw.

Once you get the black layer off, sanding is much easier. The top coat is either the result of chemical oxidation, or hot dipping the blades to protect the metal from rust.

[Jaakko]

A little advanced idea which I just got from reading this topic: How about using a magnetic table and a surface grinder to get smooth sides for the pick Would still have to sand the edges, but would be fun to test

[NanoDuke]

It's have to be an electromagnetic table, or else you wouldn't be able to remove your pick

A magnetic welder's block is a better option.

[Legion303]

I use my finger and thumb. To avoid stabbing myself, I made guards out of duct tape, that slip on like thimbles. This method works very well.

-steve

[LocksmithArmy]

haha I gouged my thumb really good a few days ago like that... im pretty sure there is some pieces of my pick in my thumb still cause it still hurts like crap lol

I gotta find some duct tape

[raimundo]

For push/pull sanding, I have been using sandpaper wrapped around two sticks and the two sticks held together with rubber bands. it works ok on the large flat areas, but dosen't do rounded edges.

[raimundo]

I forgot to say that I put the metal in between the two sanding blocks and pushpull the metal stock.

[Jaakko]

It's have to be an electromagnetic table, or else you wouldn't be able to remove your pick

A magnetic welder's block is a better option.

Seems that you haven't ever used a magnetic table nor a surface grinder, right? Magnetic table has an on/off-switch and it is completely mechanical thing, no electricity required. Electromagnetic table is much better because it can do degaussing also for the work piece or tools