Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.
by Finzz » 26 Oct 2009 19:31
I am pretty new to lockpicking and I have about 4 or 5 locks I can get open but I have only been able to get this guy open once and that was when I first started out using paperclips haha. I don't think it has any spool pins because I have never gotten it to "false set". The lock is pretty smooth but I should also note that: The plug won't turn when the key is inserted all the way, the key needs to be pulled out ever-so-little, not a whole notch or a pin, just a little bit. Okay here are the pics:    
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Finzz
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by NanoDuke » 26 Oct 2009 19:40
Why don't you drop out the core, and work on it that way? See if the key will turn properly when it's taken out of the lock cavity.
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by Finzz » 26 Oct 2009 19:45
Alright, could you link me to a guide on doing this? Sorry I'm a big noob, but everyone has to start somewhere. 
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Finzz
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by Solomon » 26 Oct 2009 20:20
Pretty cool little lock, not heard of that brand before but it looks to be well made and bears a lot of resemblance to the American 1105. You may not have gotten any false sets, but if they use the same pins as American padlocks that's to be expected since the pins are serrated. The notches are very shallow so the false sets will be very small compared to spools. Like Nano said, take the core out and gut it to see what's in there. Those cores are very easily gutted and reassembled so it won't give you much trouble, and it'll be a good learning experience aswell. 
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by Finzz » 26 Oct 2009 20:35
Solomon wrote:Pretty cool little lock, not heard of that brand before but it looks to be well made and bears a lot of resemblance to the American 1105. You may not have gotten any false sets, but if they use the same pins as American padlocks that's to be expected since the pins are serrated. The notches are very shallow so the false sets will be very small compared to spools. Like Nano said, take the core out and gut it to see what's in there. Those cores are very easily gutted and reassembled so it won't give you much trouble, and it'll be a good learning experience aswell. 
Thanks, I got it from my dad, he is a HVAC Technician and uses them to lock out stuff he is working on, like the power on an air conditioner so people don't accidentally turn on the power. I'll figure out how to take the core out and update this thread, I don't have time right now though, I'm busy with college applications and high school, so I only get around to the one of my NUMEROUS hobbies, lockpicking, once in a while. I'm pretty sure it has serrated pins because after screwing around with it some more, I noticed as I let off the tensoin while pressing on a pin it would go straight up. I have not yet learned how to pick serrated locks, but I've heard that they can be a , I am always willing though 
Thanks.
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Finzz
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by NanoDuke » 26 Oct 2009 20:43
Unlock the padlock with the key, then look down into the hole where the shackle sits. Inside you should find a grub screw. Unscrew this and the core should just fall out.
Then depending on how the core is made, you might be able to take the pins out. Although removing the cap that holds the pins in place can weaken the metal, and you risk the lock failing.
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by Finzz » 26 Oct 2009 20:57
NanoDuke wrote:Unlock the padlock with the key, then look down into the hole where the shackle sits. Inside you should find a grub screw. Unscrew this and the core should just fall out.
Then depending on how the core is made, you might be able to take the pins out. Although removing the cap that holds the pins in place can weaken the metal, and you risk the lock failing.
Okay so looking at the second picture in this post, you are saying I should rotate the plug until all of the pins pop out of the five holes in the bottom?  
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Finzz
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by Finzz » 26 Oct 2009 21:42
Shoot, I turned it too far and a little pin fell out, and the key won't work now. I'm guessing this is because now the top pin is pushed down too far and the key won't raise it enough to make a shear line.
Am I screwed now?
Luckily it was the last pin, so I am gonna try and put the key in while temporarily forcing the pin in there, I bet it won't work.....
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Finzz
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by awol70 » 26 Oct 2009 21:43
its a American 5100 series knockoff. remove the circlip at the end of the plug. insert key. turn key to 11 or 1 o'clock. push plug out with a plug follower. (you can use an old felt pen,aAAA battery,anything the right length and diameter.) the key pins wil be in the plug,and the drivers will be trapped above shear in the bible. slowly withdraw the follower,until one driver and spring pop out. repeat. reverse for reassembly,but work from the center out with your follower when replacing the springs and driver pins.
"the more you pick the more you open...the more you open,the more you pick"
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by awol70 » 26 Oct 2009 21:45
Finzz wrote:Shoot, I turned it too far and a little pin fell out, and the key won't work now. I'm guessing this is because now the top pin is pushed down too far and the key won't raise it enough to make a shear line.
Am I screwed now?
Luckily it was the last pin, so I am gonna try and put the key in while temporarily forcing the pin in there, I bet it won't work..... u lost a keypin...first as in closest to the front of the lock?
"the more you pick the more you open...the more you open,the more you pick"
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awol70
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by Finzz » 26 Oct 2009 21:46
awol70 wrote:its a American 5100 series knockoff. remove the circlip at the end of the plug. insert key. turn key to 11 or 1 o'clock. push plug out with a plug follower. (you can use an old felt pen,aAAA battery,anything the right length and diameter.) the key pins wil be in the plug,and the drivers will be trapped above shear in the bible. slowly withdraw the follower,until one driver and spring pop out. repeat. reverse for reassembly,but work from the center out with your follower when replacing the springs and driver pins.
I hope that you read my last post before you posted this or no? A pin fell out when I accidentally turned it too far 
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Finzz
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by Finzz » 26 Oct 2009 21:47
awol70 wrote:Finzz wrote:Shoot, I turned it too far and a little pin fell out, and the key won't work now. I'm guessing this is because now the top pin is pushed down too far and the key won't raise it enough to make a shear line.
Am I screwed now?
Luckily it was the last pin, so I am gonna try and put the key in while temporarily forcing the pin in there, I bet it won't work.....
<censored> u lost a keypin...first as in closest to the front of the lock?
No the last key pin, the one that the tip of the key would touch.
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Finzz
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by Finzz » 26 Oct 2009 21:48
(Not trying to double post but I didn't see an edit feature)
The last pin in the back of the lock, if that helps.
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Finzz
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by NanoDuke » 26 Oct 2009 21:50
What's covering the top of the springs? Is there a separate metal plate that you can see? You might have to pop it open to feed the pins back in.
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by awol70 » 26 Oct 2009 21:55
ok, do you have a shim? you will need a peice of thin strong steel,like a VERY thin feeler gauge,or you can cut open one of those security feature stickers from the inside of a CD cover...cut the plastic to recover the metal strips. insert key. shim the last pin from the back of the keyway with the wider of the two strips. viola. we must have posted at exactly the same time back there,to answer your other query... oh and you cant edit...preview. =)
"the more you pick the more you open...the more you open,the more you pick"
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