When it comes down to it there is nothing better than manual tools for your Lock pick Set, whether they be retail, homebrew, macgyver style. DIY'ers look here.
by muddassarusa » 16 Nov 2009 18:08
CompFX wrote:Excellent post.
Just wondering though, why not use a drill bit, drill two holes next to each other and use a file to smooth them together?
Has that been tried and not worked so well? None the less, I will have to try my hand at it tomorrow.
Very good tut Vitti.
Good job nice work carry on man
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muddassarusa
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by RevDisk » 24 Dec 2009 23:04
Here's another tutorial, from a guy that uses it to make valves for engines: http://www.aardvark.co.nz/pjet/makevalves1.pdfOnly thing I can add from my own experiences. Temperature matters. Trying to etch outdoors during the winter can be quite fun... Higher amps, faster and cleaner it goes. Do not use a cheap Radio Shack knife switch, BTW. Melted one using a motorcycle battery. 
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RevDisk
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by Shini » 22 Feb 2010 3:09
I have been having some success with this method over the last week or so.
Rather than damage any of the chargers I have around the house as they all are currently being used by their respective devices I just added more wire to the end of the output plug.
I used a laptop power supply pack with a single round hollow pin that connects to the computer. I used a digital multi meter to find which of the outside or inside was positive or negative and went from there, to use it again with the laptop all I had to do was unwrap the wires I wound around and pushed into the hollow section of the plug. The output from the adapter was a nice 19 V at 4.2 amps so a lot safer than the mains output though as AC that would have been useless for anything other than blowing fuses.
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by neptix » 4 Mar 2011 19:42
I know most of you understand this, but as an electrical engineer, I feel the need to make it very clear... This is not a job for wall current. Best case, you trip a breaker, worst case, you are electrocuted to death while your house burns down around you. Either way, no picks. "Wall wart" transformer/rectifiers are probably your best bet. Most wall warts have built in protection, so even if you do short them out, you usually just have a dead wall wart. They cost a buck at any flea market. Car/moterbike batteries will work for heavier projects, but be careful not to short them out. They don't have any protection, and a short from them can produce thousands of amps. That being said, have fun and make awesome things. I will be  neptix
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neptix
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by Dpruente » 24 Oct 2011 12:32
I do believe that the "reaction" with the tape adhesive, is actually a matter of physics. The thickness of the tape gives a little notch that the reaction chemicals sit in and concentrate themselves, instead of reacting and falling off like they do on the open area to be cut.
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by boogietoot » 17 Jun 2013 15:51
Hack saw blades are very hard to drill through I tried when making my pick handles and even just centerpunching barely left more then a scratch without it snapping. The drill bit just walked right off the blade before it cut anything lol
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by dll932 » 19 Aug 2013 14:24
Dpruente wrote:I do believe that the "reaction" with the tape adhesive, is actually a matter of physics. The thickness of the tape gives a little notch that the reaction chemicals sit in and concentrate themselves, instead of reacting and falling off like they do on the open area to be cut.
That sounds about right. I remember when developing photo film, if you didn't agitate the solution you'd get what they called "edge effect" which would give stronger development at the edges of light areas. Wax should be useable as a resist. Make sure the blade is oil-free (dip it in acetone), then melt wax onto it. Carve away where you want to etch. This works with acid to etch glass.
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by C locked » 25 Aug 2013 11:29
Nice job. explaining the process. Just a question. How long can the prongs be before they aren't effective at tensioning. (For tulip knobsets for example. Rather then bending the usual tulip tensioner shape.)
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C locked
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by DiacetylMorphine » 30 Nov 2014 15:50
did anyone test the same wich chemical removing instead of electric one ? chloridric acid is cheap and effective on steal. i'm gonna try just to see.
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by DiacetylMorphine » 11 Dec 2014 18:44
chloridric acid does work but it also corod some of the metal. So you'll have to remove that part after ward. Better use eletrolise, but if nothing else acid work.
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by tomasfuk » 14 Jun 2015 4:29
r0b0t1 wrote:I was going to try this process but instead use some Ferric Chloride I found in my basement. Hope I can get something passable from it...
The products of the electrolysis as described are: - hydrogen (H2) at the cathode, creating bubbles, - sodium hydroxide (NaOH) at the cathode, being dissolved in the water, - ferric chloride (FeCl3) at the anode, being dissolved in the water. Thus, trying to use the ferric chloride for such purpose is like burning a burned coal.
Veni, vidi, relinquo. Vale!
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by Squelchtone » 14 Jun 2015 8:47
tomasfuk wrote:r0b0t1 wrote:I was going to try this process but instead use some Ferric Chloride I found in my basement. Hope I can get something passable from it...
The products of the electrolysis as described are: - hydrogen (H2) at the cathode, creating bubbles, - sodium hydroxide (NaOH) at the cathode, being dissolved in the water, - ferric chloride (FeCl3) at the anode, being dissolved in the water. Thus, trying to use the ferric chloride for such purpose is like burning a burned coal.
When replying, please take note of the age of the original post, you just schooled a guy who posted that 6 years ago and hasn't been logged on in 5 years.
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by GWiens2001 » 14 Jun 2015 10:45
Squelchtone wrote:tomasfuk wrote:r0b0t1 wrote:I was going to try this process but instead use some Ferric Chloride I found in my basement. Hope I can get something passable from it...
The products of the electrolysis as described are: - hydrogen (H2) at the cathode, creating bubbles, - sodium hydroxide (NaOH) at the cathode, being dissolved in the water, - ferric chloride (FeCl3) at the anode, being dissolved in the water. Thus, trying to use the ferric chloride for such purpose is like burning a burned coal.
When replying, please take note of the age of the original post, you just schooled a guy who posted that 6 years ago and hasn't been logged on in 5 years.
But maybe the OP will wake up tomorrow thinking "What ever happened with that post I wrote six years ago". That said, perhaps someone else will see the thread and see the science behind it. But yes, it is a necro-post. Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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by tomasfuk » 14 Jun 2015 11:47
I wrote it just because the thread has been resuscitated and the latest post was only 6 months old.
Veni, vidi, relinquo. Vale!
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by allan501 » 18 Jun 2015 15:46
OP may not be around anymore but I am interested and probably wouldn't have found it if hadn't been resurrected. IMHO
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