Is there such a tool for removing mortise cylinders

[npdaniels]

Is there an actual tool for removing mortise cylinders?

I have used vice grips and a cloth to remove them, but was wondering if there is an actual tool. As I have never come across one and was wondering if any others have made or used something different?

Thanks for your replies.

[ElAbogado]

Is there an actual tool for removing mortise cylinders?

I have used vice grips and a cloth to remove them, but was wondering if there is an actual tool. As I have never come across one and was wondering if any others have made or used something different?

Thanks for your replies.

I have always just used a blank key to unscrew them. What it sounds like to me is that you have your cylinder in a bind. This can be created by tightening the adams-rite assembly screws after installing the cylinder. Just loosen the two or three big screws that go into the side of the door and through the lock assembly before removing them and you should be ok. Don't forget to tighten them afterwards.

If you are dealing with a non aluminum storefront type lock, then there could be another problem causing the bind.

El Abogado

[npdaniels]

Thanks El Abogado

Your right, some cylinders do bind and if you just loosen off the screws there is no binding on the door itself. Some cylinders are still tough to turn, I guess due to over tightening, once loosened a key should easily turn the cylinder.

[Squelchtone]

Is there an actual tool for removing mortise cylinders?

I like El Abogado's tips, they're the kind that come with experience. If you are still interested in the tool, this is what it looks like:

http://www.lockmasters.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=48794

http://www.lockpickersmall.com/a116.html

The cost varies depending on if you buy it from a distributor or an online supply shop. Anywhere from $35 to $50.

Regards,
Squelchtone

[Eyes_Only]

I've bought and used that tool on a couple of commercial calls before and I was glad I had it.

[thelockoutguys]

it wholesales for $38.95 from lockmasters

[Thisguy]

Just to add an alternative here, I've used a T-handled jar opener more than a few times , when key blanks and loosening screws fails.
Doesn't mar the cylinder.

This is similar to the one I got for like $5
http://www.restorationhardware.com/rh/c ... navCount=1

[raimundo]

I saw a guy remove a mortise lock with a pipe wrench, and he didn't even know about the set screw, so he plowed the tip of that screw all the way around that cylinder with brute force and ignorance.

it was really something to see.

you should remove the set screw from under the cover plate at the edge of the door.

This usually makes the unscrewing the cylinder easy enough to do with a keyblank.

[npdaniels]

Raimundo

That is a form of (insert unmentionable word here) for that particular style of lock assembly, when no key will enter the keyway or the cylinder is jammed.

I like the T handle idea, looks like it would work very well.

Thanks

[Rickthepick]

Raimundo

That is a form of (insert unmentionable word here) for that particular style of lock assembly, when no key will enter the keyway or the cylinder is jammed.

I like the T handle idea, looks like it would work very well.

Thanks

LOL

Adding to that someone showed me an awesome trick whereby you repeatedly tap the face of the cylinder with a bump hammer or other blunt object.

Repeated many, (!MANY!), times the grub screws are vibrated free for the cylinder to be unscrewed.

I really tightened them too but it still worked. May be worth using threadlocker if you ever install these! haha

[npdaniels]

Now that’s cool.... I'm going to have to try that. I've have had some calls where the cylinder is turning and the customer does not know how to re-tighten the cylinder, My thoughts are repeated door slamming will cause the set screw to eventually vibrate loose.

[Eyes_Only]

I've been on calls where the set screws were missing completely.

[Rickthepick]

Now that’s cool.... I'm going to have to try that. I've have had some calls where the cylinder is turning and the customer does not know how to re-tighten the cylinder, My thoughts are repeated door slamming will cause the set screw to eventually vibrate loose.

yes, just like upvc doors, whenever i re-adjust the door/lock i always go over all the screws and re tighten, as again, lack of maintenance and repeated slamming by the owner loosens everything.

[Tyler J. Thomas]

If the cylinder still won't come out after you've:

1) Loosened the set screw
2) Loosened the mounting screws
3) Made a quick visual inspection to make sure the threads on the cylinder and lock aren't crossed

and you're dealing with a lock that has either another mortise cylinder or thumbturn on the other side, try loosening it's set screw and removing it completely. I've seen many, many AR-style locks with misaligned crossbores. The inside or outside cylinder (depending on the situation) can actually bind the other.

Crossed threads (noted at top) are another common occurrence. I actually just learned a method to file the side of a standard mortise cylinder to make it work as a tap. It's really only good for 3-4 uses (because it is just soft brass, after all), but that's really not an issue since you're just going to be fixing the threads once, hopefully. A lot of of the scammers are wrenching cylinders into either the AR-style or telescoping bolt-style locks commonly found on store front doors. It can be a real pain in the ass to deal with.

[exspook]

Rick..Please dont fit the screws on Adams right locks with Blue thread lock..

The heads are shyte and they split in two...followed by copious amonts of nastyness

Sure you wouldnt do it anyway as you seem like a decent bloke

Have had these sooper glued up to the max though (bleeding tree huggers and coffee shops) and that has siezed the entire lock