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A $2000+ lock and its insecurity

Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.

Re: A $2000+ lock and its insecurity

Postby Tyler J. Thomas » 8 Dec 2009 21:59

You're right though, cylindrical latch locks by themselves are a bad option. We always recommend using latch guards with any standalone cylindrical latch we install. It's a requirement for us on high-end locks.
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Re: A $2000+ lock and its insecurity

Postby GutterClown » 9 Dec 2009 6:57

lockinabox wrote:Generally speaking I agree, but In the case of a cylindrical deadlatch, price ≠ quality because of the deficiencies of the cylindrical deadlatch. I mean sure you can have a really good one, but that's like having the best Sentry "Safe".

In other news, it appears that I need to change the name of the thread to "Lockwood is the world's greatest lock company and all 1 billion+ doors in the United States should be modified to use their locks." :D

I'm sorry if I quote off lockwood as my reference point, but I know the brand and in australia, we use it as a gauge against everything.

What deficiencies are you speaking of?
I think the problems encountered with deadlatching cylindrical KIK\KIL sets mostly fall into the categories of poor maintenance, poor installation or poor lock mechanism choice.
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Re: A $2000+ lock and its insecurity

Postby raimundo » 13 Dec 2009 13:34

some terms that I use, some of them are the correct ones

snaplatch....a spring bolt with a cam surface that will latch the door against the wind when it slams.

deadlocking latch....a springloaded bolt that has a deadlocker which will prevent it from being forced back all the way back in. the springbolt will only pentrate about five eights of an inch into the strike plate and so it cannot be compared to a modern up to code deadlock which will penetrate from an inch to an inch and a half. Five eights of an inch is good for interior doors, but cannot be used to secure the perimeter. many times three eights of an inch is the gap in the door/frame interface, and if you take one of these deadlocking latches in your hand and test it, you will find that it only deadlocks if the deadlocker that lays on one side of the bolt is held in a certain distance, if that is allowed to fill the threeeights gap in the strike/door area, the function is completely negated.

these types of locks do generate locksmith calls for people who got locked out by the wind.

Rim locks are fitted to the interior surface of the door frame, they require only a small hole to mount the cylinder in, this is one less hole than a dead bolt which has its bolt morticed in the door rather than mounted on the rim of that cylinder hole, rim locks are sometimes stronger than dead bolts especially if they are of the hookbolt variety where the bolt physically hooks on the strike plate.

From reading the original post, I think hes refering to a type of morticed bolt that is made to be pounded into a drilled hole, the part around the bolt has a splined collar to pound into the hole.
whenever you see this type of bolt, you are looking at cheap stuff that was designed to be installed by the DIYer who does everything one time and if he reads directions he has a hope of getting it right before he forgets the process.
Wake up and smell the Kafka!!!
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