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by johnny_bombastic » 20 Jan 2010 16:44
I bought one of each of these to play with. The shiny one took me about 45 min, the first time. There are only 4 pins, but it was hard to find the right amount of tension because of the springiness on the cylinder. Then I tried the "Magnum" version which looks beefed up as far as the shell of the lock goes.... and surprise, it opened in seconds. Upon further inspection I found that I usually only had to push up one pin to open it and then I found that sometimes if you put the key in and pulled it out, NONE of the pins would drop out of position and you could just turn the cylinder with your thumbnail to unlock it! Are these Master disc Magnums so bad... or was this one just defective?
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by Solomon » 20 Jan 2010 17:58
I take it the shiny one is the no. 40? If so, yes, they're very easy to pick. I've only picked one, but I had it open almost as soon as it came out of the packet and everyone who has played with one says the same thing. You're right, tensioning them is strange because of the stiffness but once you get the feel for them they're one of the easiest locks out there. Not even a single spool in there.
I haven't seen the Magnum version, but knowing master lock, and since you got it open so quickly, I'd say they use the exact same core as the no. 40 so in terms of picking they're the same lock.
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by Josh K » 20 Jan 2010 19:22
I'm working over the No. 40, the springy tension is throwing me off. The newer disk style masters with the octogon cut shackle are some of the easiest. It's really not secure at all.
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by Lauren » 23 Jan 2010 1:25
In my opinion, the entire Master Magnum series is a joke; the quality and tolerances are so bad, that I rate the line as the best starter lock series to build one's confidience in picking. I've even encountered evidence of plug filing on a couple of these locks. That's what manufactures in China do when their quality control can't get it right.
LOCKSMITHS LOVE TO PICK BRAINS
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by thelockpickkid » 23 Jan 2010 15:16
This sounds like the same sort of deal with the Commercial series and the regular series original Master Locks. For instance, take a commercial #3 Master, versus an orginal #3. Do you know what the difference in the cylinder is? Absolutely nothing at all. They are the same lock. For somebody that didn't know, they would think the Commercial was a better lock. That is wrong. I have yet to this day been kept out of a Master lock.
Shoot first ask questions later! Thelockpickkid
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by raimundo » 24 Jan 2010 9:44
about the 'springyness' I do not have this lock and likely will not buy one. so I cannot test this,
the springyness is a combination of the locking dog spring, and the shackle spring, fighting the tensor, by putting some rubberbands around the lock across the shackle, you can counter the shackle spring which is pressing the shackle into the tip of the locking dog. Do not put too many of them on, as you will only cause the shackle to press on the dog from the top rather than the bottom where its spring impinges on it, with this force neutralized, you will only be fighting the dog spring, which is typically not that strong, these being master locks, can anyone tell us if the locking dogs can be pressed back through the keyhole without picking the cylinder at all?
Wake up and smell the Kafka!!!
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by Josh K » 24 Jan 2010 16:15
raimundo wrote:about the 'springyness' I do not have this lock and likely will not buy one. so I cannot test this,
the springyness is a combination of the locking dog spring, and the shackle spring, fighting the tensor, by putting some rubberbands around the lock across the shackle, you can counter the shackle spring which is pressing the shackle into the tip of the locking dog. Do not put too many of them on, as you will only cause the shackle to press on the dog from the top rather than the bottom where its spring impinges on it, with this force neutralized, you will only be fighting the dog spring, which is typically not that strong, these being master locks, can anyone tell us if the locking dogs can be pressed back through the keyhole without picking the cylinder at all?
I'm not sure if you're talking about the same lock. These are the round disk locks. 
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by mlts » 25 Mar 2010 1:01
The "Magnums" are just a new design, just like car makers redesign models of vehicles. The shackle may be octagonal instead of round, but the main reason for the changes are cosmetic.
Sometimes, Master might do an improvement or two, such as the anti-shim latch in some of their combination padlocks, but for the most part, Master locks tend to be the "good enough to keep honest people honest" variety.
Some of their upper end stuff is decent, but if I need a medium-security padlock, I go for an American (which the brand is now owned by Master Lock) model with ball locking, and perhaps key retaining. At least the rekeyable American locks can be pinned with six tumblers, which combined with the serrated pins, provides some decent pick resistance for a padlock.
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by Eyes_Only » 25 Mar 2010 5:58
Josh K wrote:raimundo wrote:about the 'springyness' I do not have this lock and likely will not buy one. so I cannot test this,
the springyness is a combination of the locking dog spring, and the shackle spring, fighting the tensor, by putting some rubberbands around the lock across the shackle, you can counter the shackle spring which is pressing the shackle into the tip of the locking dog. Do not put too many of them on, as you will only cause the shackle to press on the dog from the top rather than the bottom where its spring impinges on it, with this force neutralized, you will only be fighting the dog spring, which is typically not that strong, these being master locks, can anyone tell us if the locking dogs can be pressed back through the keyhole without picking the cylinder at all?
I'm not sure if you're talking about the same lock. These are the round disk locks. 
Whoa, did Master change the keyway for their disk lock? Looks a lot more like an Abus keyway.
If a lock is a puzzle, then its key is the complete picture
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by braddockpicker » 25 Mar 2010 12:24
I have a Master M5 padlock. It looks beefed up and stronger than other locks. However I am still new to picking and I picked it with ease. The no. 40 lock your talking about I haven't seen. Is it an older master lock I would love to pick one up. Easy or not to pick it's still another lock to add to the collection.
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by Squelchtone » 25 Mar 2010 12:29
braddockpicker wrote:I have a Master M5 padlock. It looks beefed up and stronger than other locks.
Exaclty. it only LOOKS beefed up and stronger. that's about it though.. still easy to pick, still easy to drill, smash, etc. I will give them that they have changed from a latching mechanism to ball bearings on some of them, so that's actually a decent improvement to stop kids with beer can shims. or coke can shims.. cuz there's no way a kid could get their hands on beer. =) Squelchtone
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by mlts » 25 Mar 2010 22:44
I have seen lock companies, (and not just Master) adding plastic cases so their lock looks beefier than it is. It also adds some scratch resistance, which for some uses (bicycles) is a good thing. If you tear off the plastic, it usually is their last generation design, or even worse, a design with less protection.
I am glad Master has moved to ball bearings on some padlocks and a new design of latches for combination locks. This way, the kiddos have to resort to actual picking rather than just carving up a Sprite can and making shims.
As for disc locks, I remember Abus/Buffo being the first, then eventually Master making a disc lock with 4 pins. The advantage of the disc lock design is the limited access to a shackle, so a 4 pin Master lock wards off most attacks such as leverage and such. However, it doesn't take a lot to know how to pick, and 4 pins provide a lot less security than Abus's 5. For maximum pick resistance in a disc lock, nothing beats the Abus lock that uses an Abloy/Abus disc cylinder. It can be decoded by someone familiar with detainer discs, but that knowledge is a lot rarer than someone who knows how to whack a bump key.
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