raimundo wrote:Or you could glue the screws into place after screwing them tight, then just flatten the heads with a belt sander, work slow, let the piece cool between hits on the belt, to keep from screwing up the glue with the heat.
The problem with that is that you can't sand them flush and not abrade the already anodized handles. And you can't really anodize the whole thing because you'd just corrode the already pristinely polished pick blade.
raimundo wrote:What happens if you anodize partially in one color and finish in another color? can you get a camoflage look, or some mottled surface? I suppose you could if you used a resist to keep parts of it from equal coloring,
Yeah you would have to use a resist in the areas you want to mask, then re-anodise and re-dye in another color.
How the second or third dyings (and anodizings) would affect the first anod/dye session I couldn't say. From what I've read already anodized areas won't re-anodize without it being stripped off first so maybe it wouldn't have any effect on previously dyed areas?
raimundo wrote:wouldn't a knurled or otherwise textured surface make the anodizing last longer in the low spots while letting it wear on the high spots.
Yeah it would and that would be a pretty cool effect particularly if you worked towards that end, like if you put backstrapping like you find on the rear of pistol grips (checkerboard-y hashmarks but fairly deep) then rubbed 1500 +sandpaper over it lightly or even just burnished it with something you could fade the most elevated areas keeping the deepest areas the darkest.
MAN I wish I had a fully stocked shop!
Cow