Control key on a Schlage Everest IC

[Josh K]

I think this is the full sized IC, but I could be wrong.

Recently got one and the only difference between the operator key and control key is the control key is a bit longer with an extra cut to hit a pin. This pin is connected to a retaining ring that withdraws a pin at the top of the bible allowing the lock to be removed.

Couldn't you just tension that ring and life that one pin up to cause the cylinder to drop out?

[FarmerFreak]

Couldn't you just tension that ring and life that one pin up to cause the cylinder to drop out?

Short answer, no.

Long answer. Lifting the pin does 2 things. It lifts a second pin/piece that allows the retaining pin to move over. It also connects the the cylinder to the ring. What that means is that to hold the second pin up that releases the retaining pin, you will also have the ring connected to the plug, which can't turn unless it is picked.

In my hands I can get this to work if and only if I can apply pressure directly to the retaining pin. Which isn't an option when it is installed.

FYI, don't be surprised if this gets moved to the advanced since it would be a bypass and not picking. But hopefully this answers your question before that happens.

[Josh K]

I did notice that I could get it to release if I pushed on the retaining pin while lifting the last pin. I guess when I gut it I'll see what you mean.

By the way, this is large format right?

[FarmerFreak]

By the way, this is large format right?

Yes.

[zeke79]

What I have done in the past is cut on a regular blank the height needed for the control pin cut this off the blank and cut a sort of V on the back of this. You end up with the standard front portion of the key with ramps for the pins and then on the back where you cut it from the blank there is a sort of V notch so your pick still has room to access the last operating pin. I push this in with a pick and count the clicks as it goes it so I know where it's at. Once in place I pick the lock as normal which lets you remove the core. I only do this when I dont have a control blank handy. I think I have a tool somewhere that has the front portion of the control key and is shaved down very thin everywhere else to allow a shallow hook or diamond in. The tool retains the bottom lug that interfaces with the front of the lock to prevent the tool from going in too far.

That is one warning with the cut off blank tool I described first. You have to be very careful not to shove it in too far as in that case it won't come out when you pick it and a control key can no longer be inserted. If you do succeed then once the lock is removed you can remove the rear cap from the cylinder and push the bit out the rear of the lock or you can lift the pins and use a key extractor to pull it out from the front.

Hope that helps a bit. If you want to know the cut for the control pin let us know and I or someone else who has access to them can measure them for you.

[FarmerFreak]

I've made a tool like Zeke Suggested. I actually made this tool shortly after making the Tricerapicks. If made correctly there shouldn't be any worries about it coming back out again. I also quickly found out that if you are using it to help remove a core that is actually being used there isn't a concern about putting it into the lock too far. Since the tailpiece will block the key from going out the back of the keyway.

And since I am now home and can take some pictures. (I don't have a "C" keyway cylinder here )




I almost always use top of keyway tension. This tool doesn't interfere with picking at all.

[zeke79]

Nice post farmerfreak. You are right, these type of tools will not go too far into the lock. However I have found that when making your own from a normal blank that if you are not careful you can push it back far enough into the lock that the pin is no longer properly lifted. This is due to the fact that if you cut too much off the bit you insert then the bit can be moved back in the lock a bit so that the pin no longer contacts the bitting surface. If you make the bit too large then it is tough or impossible to lift the back operating pin. If you stick to the tool I described last or farmerfreak posted a picture of then you'll have no problems with this. This type of tool is really the best way to go for picking these locks. You can use a tool made from a C145 blank in a C123 lock when they are shaved down this much. If I recall correctly you can even use a C123 blank in a C145 (this may require a bit of modification to the blank with a file) again since it is shaved down so much. I do know that you can modify a C123 blank to fit the more obscure C145 using a file or by other means. Personally I use my dimple key duplicator to do this using the C145 blank in the guide side and then simply insert a C123 blank on the cutter side then trace the C145 profile with the guide one each side. You may have to do a bit of fine file work to finish the blank but it can be done very easily. I have done this to many other blanks that were much harder such as modifying a yale Y1 blank to fit a buva euro cylinder and a Y1 blank to fit a corbin euro cylinder. For more difficult blanks it's time to bust out the calipers and hit the mill. This takes much more time but for some blanks it's the only way to get a spare key for a lock. This is getting kind of off topic so back to the topic. You can also use a primus control key to work on primus locks with the same sidebar but you can also use them in almost any C keyway. I am not sure whether it will fit into the SC20 keyway or not. The SC20 blank is the "master" blank for C keyways and is the thinnest blank and the hardest blank to cut without splitting along the ward areas with a code machine or duplicator that uses a rotating cutting wheel. They tend to split at the ward closest to the key cuts. This happens with schlage brand blanks and aftermarket blanks. I have found that some of the real cheap aftermarket blanks are soft enough they dont split but they do bend up easier. You are better off punching these keys out if you have a good punch. A pak a punch will work but it does tend to bend the blank a bit but they do still work most of the time. A blue punch will work better for this task as the blank is supported better. I assume an HPC punch machine will also do a good job punching these out.

[Josh K]

Thanks for the write up guys.

I'm going to work on picking it alone before I start picking it to the control position. I will probably make something that will shim the sidebar pin up. I remember someone cutting up a blank for it.

I might be able to get some pictures up, it is the C145 keyway, though I do have another keyless C123 Everest lock.