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by Wolf2486 » 2 Apr 2010 18:52
Hi guys, After giving up lock picking for a little bit due to other responsibilities (i.e. college), I recently got back into it again. Decided to give the Kwikset Smart Key lock another try using my technique of applying direct, sidebar tension with the smart key that comes with each lock. I posted a video on YouTube some time back about it. Anywho, modified my technique a bit and these puppies seem to open a little easier now. I redid a video, which can be found here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZiQi7_RvbfEHope this helps anyone who may have been struggling with these. Kind regards, Wolf
Lock picking is an art, not a means of entry.
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by Eyes_Only » 2 Apr 2010 20:01
I recently spent a few hours playing with a SmartKey in a lever handle using your technique and keying it to a bitting of 41232 it did work but I haven't been able to get much success when re-keyed to different combinations.
What I was thinking of was to build something that I can attach to a lever handle or knob lock that will apply inward tension to the lock for me cos after a using that re-key tool to apply tension for a good 10 to 20 minutes and my hand and fingers get really sore.
If a lock is a puzzle, then its key is the complete picture
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by Wolf2486 » 2 Apr 2010 20:37
Eyes_Only wrote:What I was thinking of was to build something that I can attach to a lever handle or knob lock that will apply inward tension to the lock for me cos after a using that re-key tool to apply tension for a good 10 to 20 minutes and my hand and fingers get really sore.
Yeah, that is why I heavily duck taped mine to spare my fingers. Even still, my thumb ends up a little sore. Have you tried adding the tension wrench like I did in my new video? I found it really help for some of the more stubborn wafers that are a little harder to get otherwise. Also, for some of the Kwikset Smartkey locks, the very last pin is not able to be lifted even when using the smartkey as a tensioner. What I do then is to start lifting the last pin, then apply the inward tension from the smartkey, and lift it some more until it clicks. I have been unable to find a pattern as to why some SmartKey locks do this and others do not. You may also want to try that with your lever lock as well.
Lock picking is an art, not a means of entry.
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by Eyes_Only » 2 Apr 2010 21:00
Yeah I tried it with the wrench. It helps sometimes and other times it makes things complicated but I'm still working on it. I haven't noticed anything weird with the last pin but I'll definately keep that in mind next time I try picking it. Not today though cos I spent all day working on Lexus locks so I'm done for the day.
If a lock is a puzzle, then its key is the complete picture
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by Josh K » 2 Apr 2010 23:45
How exactly does the smart key work?
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by Wolf2486 » 2 Apr 2010 23:52
You have only one set of pins (rather than a bottom pin and top pin) that raises wafers with notches in them. These notches all align in order for a sidebar to fall into them so the cylinder may turn. What the SmartKey does is push the wafers "off" of the pins. You insert a new key, and the pins re-align to that key. When you let off the SmartKey pressure, the wafers come back "on" the pins, but now will line up with the sidebar at the new pin configuration rather than the old one. Of course, the wafers can only be moved away from the pins if the side bar is in (meaning the lock is open). When I use the SmartKey for tension, I am trying to move the wafers off the pins with the side bar not in. This results in direct tension on the wafers.
Sorry if that just confused you further. Maybe someone else can explain it more clearly.
Lock picking is an art, not a means of entry.
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by Josh K » 2 Apr 2010 23:58
Wolf2486 wrote:You have only one set of pins (rather than a bottom pin and top pin) that raises wafers with notches in them. These notches all align in order for a sidebar to fall into them so the cylinder may turn. What the SmartKey does is push the wafers "off" of the pins. You insert a new key, and the pins re-align to that key. When you let off the SmartKey pressure, the wafers come back "on" the pins, but now will line up with the sidebar at the new pin configuration rather than the old one. Of course, the wafers can only be moved away from the pins if the side bar is in (meaning the lock is open). When I use the SmartKey for tension, I am trying to move the wafers off the pins with the side bar not in. This results in direct tension on the wafers.
Sorry if that just confused you further. Maybe someone else can explain it more clearly.
So you have driveless pins with notches on them. You insert the correct key and then insert the SmartKey to pull the wafers off of the pin. Insert a new key and remove the SmartKey and the lock is instantly rekey'ed. The wafters interact with a sidebar. That's an interesting design. I think I'll have to pull one of these apart and check it out.
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by globallockytoo » 3 Apr 2010 0:01
insert working key, turn clockwise 90º and depress pin in hole, remove key. insert new key and turn 90º counter clockwise. The lock is now rekeyed.
One One was a race horse, one one won one race, one two was a racehorse, one two won one too.
Disclaimer: Do not pull tag off mattress. Not responsible for legal advice while laughing. Bilock - The Original True Bump Proof Pin Tumbler System!
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by Josh K » 3 Apr 2010 0:06
globallockytoo wrote:insert working key, turn clockwise 90º and depress pin in hole, remove key. insert new key and turn 90º counter clockwise. The lock is now rekeyed.
Right, I know how it works functionally to the end user. I was really interested about the internals though. You get limited / no feedback because the pins are connected to the wafers?
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by globallockytoo » 3 Apr 2010 0:10
there is feedback, but the sidebar needs to have more pressure on it to increase the feedback. This is the hard part. (applying pressure to the sidebar)
hence why there are multiple bypasses for the lock.
One One was a race horse, one one won one race, one two was a racehorse, one two won one too.
Disclaimer: Do not pull tag off mattress. Not responsible for legal advice while laughing. Bilock - The Original True Bump Proof Pin Tumbler System!
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by Josh K » 3 Apr 2010 0:16
globallockytoo wrote:there is feedback, but the sidebar needs to have more pressure on it to increase the feedback. This is the hard part. (applying pressure to the sidebar)
hence why there are multiple bypasses for the lock.
The increase in tension makes it harder to manipulate the pin stacks I would assume?
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by Wolf2486 » 3 Apr 2010 8:55
When the pressure is from the SmartKey, the pins/wafers are always easy to manipulate. At least in the few locks I have tried, it didn't take too much pressure to get some feedback. But it was enough pressure to make your thumb sore if you tried to pick it for too long.
Adding a tension wrench toward the end to pick the last few helps saves the fingers a bit as well.
Lock picking is an art, not a means of entry.
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by yng_pick » 3 Apr 2010 15:11
Neat idea  Haven't had much of a chance to try it out, only briefly last night, but I plan on disassembling one and going through it wafer by wafer with your method. I had wondered if there was any way to use the rekey hole to assist with picking the smart key.
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by lockpickroy » 14 Apr 2010 0:49
WOLF2486 thank you very much for the post and u tube video I am a locksmith and do a lot of lockouts. in the past week I have had to deal with 2 smartkey locks, i can pick the one at my house with just a hook and tension bar but it takes forever 30 min to a hour (way to long for a house unlock in the field) I know i will have to deal with one of these in the near future that i cant card and not have the option of opening another lock on the house to get in. the house I opened today the lady had the key but it just stopped working for no reason. I was hoping there was a better way to open these. Thank you again
Lock picking hobbyist turned licensed locksmith thanks in part to lp101.com
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by zerocool5878 » 15 Apr 2010 21:22
lockpickroy wrote:I was hoping there was a better way to open these. Thank you again
I have run into this twice myself it seems like if you slam the door the wrong way, one or more of the wafers move and the key wont work. However its fast money  I was using a comb to rekey them but now i bought the reset tool and your out of there in 10mins. I would never in a million years recommend that someone have all locks in there house self rekeyable locks. I tell people to leave at least on door with regular locks.
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