American 260

[femurat]

I just got this beautiful lock... and wanted to share my happiness!







I guess that nowadays they no longer write the key bittings on the lock

Well, since we're here... what blank do I need to impression it?

Cheers

[FarmerFreak]

That can't be the bitting. American locks use depths 1-8.

As far as blanks go. If my memory is right, you won't be able to get any. I believe that the keyway of the one you have was a restricted and controlled blank used primarily by train stations.

If somebody else knows for sure, could you please confirm if what I said is accurate. Please.

[femurat]

oops, you're right about the bittings. I should have got it myself: the lock is picked and the first pin is almost halfway so it can't be a 9.

No problem about the blank, it was just an idea.

Thanks

[raimundo]

American does put the key bittins on original keys, so that could be the bitting for the key that originally fit that lock, you can see some spalling around the keyway (metal pressed out of design shape) so the lock is well used, theres no telling if it was rekeyed to fit some system.
Companies who put the original bitting on the key make it possible to copy the key with information only,
This is highly insecure,
I have to wonder what the company was thinking when they did that, Schlage also puts bittings in the clear on their keys.
Why not use a code and codebook like they used to.

[ChemicalRobot]

What a beauty. Where did you pick that up at?

[femurat]

Well, writing the bittings on the key is quite unsecure, but engraving it on the lock face is too much! This is definitely a code.

I won this lock for a few $ on a popular auction site... and as usual shipping it was more expensive than its price.

Cheers

[cedrice]

looks like a Schlage C keyway. The number could be a series number. Gencode, KreateAKey and Code Source return no results. It could be part of a padlock system. If I sell a company a few hundred padlocks, I will do a master key system for the customer and stamp each padlock with a coded number, that means nothing to anyone that doesn't have a list of the system.

[Rodander]

I just found this site because I was searching for for information on An American 260 lock I just acquired. I have no key, but lock was open so was able to remove the cylinder. I need information on where and how to acquire a key. Also any information on age of lock would be interesting. My lock is identical to the one in your picture except for the 7 above the series 260 and the letters SHH stamped on the back side.
Thanks Rodander

[Squelchtone]

I just found this site because I was searching for for information on An American 260 lock I just acquired. I have no key, but lock was open so was able to remove the cylinder. I need information on where and how to acquire a key. Also any information on age of lock would be interesting. My lock is identical to the one in your picture except for the 7 above the series 260 and the letters SHH stamped on the back side.
Thanks Rodander

You can walk into a locksmith shop and get a key cut for your lock, will probably cost you $10 to $25 bucks.

SHH = August of 1977.

Date code chart:
http://www.lockpicking101.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=44614&start=11

welcome to the forum,
Squelchtone

[Rodander]

Thanks for the info.
This is a very interesting site, I intend to study it and learn more. As an old Hot Rodder I am interested in any thing mechanical. If I can find a key that fits in the lock I will just match the pins to it. No rush, as I have no need of the lock it just looks neat. I thought it would go well in my shop. check out an old mans junk http://www.lightningrodlabs.com/ .

[femurat]

Hi Rod,

welcome to the forum I was curious and clicked your blog, where I found this

The same wife since 1961, two children, a boy and a girl, four grandchildren. That plus a comfortable retirement, good health and good friends is about all one can ask for.

Plus you seems to fix everything... you're my hero

About the padlock you found it's a good old lock, it's solid and works like a charm. Let us know if you happen to find a blank for it.

Good luck

[semolian]

Hi!

I have one of these same locks, only mine has the number 879 stamped on the back, no lettered date code.

Been a while since I looked at it.

It was always kinda stiff to turn and hard to get the key out, but worked.

I had some free time today and stumbled upon it, while doing other chores.

...So, naturally, I took it apart.

The retention screw was covered with dirt and grime and looked like it might be rusted, wd40 helped loosen it.

The core was rusted inside the body so I hit it with a dash of wd40 and went on with my day.

Returned later and the core came out with some effort.

Long and short of it all... I got the thing apart, cleaned, de greased, and re greased, re-assembled and it was

working MUCH better.

I was VERY proud of my self.

Then... I hear a click... You know... that click that sounds like the death of fun.

Then it would open no more.

The core retention screw, apparently, was not quite screwed in well enough into its recess and all the open and closing i was doing, to work the

grease into it, was enough to jostle the core into its rightful place, loosing the connection to the actuator.

I'm sooooo bummed out... i guess ill have to spend the holiday looking for a new shackle for this thing because I don't think there is ANY other way to

revive it other than cutting off the shackle.

..Now that I think of it, perhaps an American bypass tool might open the shackle, allowing me access to the screw!!??!!

I would REALLY like to keep this lock original, I dont' know if i can even get a new shackle for this old lock.

Comments, Questions, Concerns?

If you need pictures, I'll gladly post some.

Thank You!

Semolian

[GWiens2001]

Cutting the shackle will NOT allow you to open this lock. If you look around the forum, there are posts here that address this concern and various ways the lock may be opened.

Just don't want you to cut the shackle, only to find that it does not help resolve the problem.

Gordon

[semolian]

Thank You, Gordon.

I looked around the forum for a solution prior to posting, to no avail.

I WILL dig deeper for the discussions you mentioned.

If I can find it, I'll write up a list of my steps to post.

This rainy holiday should provide me some time to so.

Semolian

[semolian]

Update:

Found this page as a possible solution:
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=55853&p=405593&hilit=actuator#p405593
The advise found there was to cut shoulder of key with hope of reaching the un-sprung actuator thru back of cylinder and turn.
Definitely will try that!
The other would be to smack the living tar out of it with a hammer, hoping to compromise the threads of the screw, hopefully not the threads in the core too (not so desirable, but could work).
I'll try the first solution, then if that dont work, I think I'll take it to a real locksmith
Thank you once again.