modified padlock for a little extra pick resistance.

[Safety0ff]

We've already seen commercial locks like this, I can't remember the post but someone had posted pictures of it...

[femurat]

SnowyBoy, people still use pin tumbler cause they don't know anything about locks and they are cheap.

Please don't stop brainstorming, it was starting to amuse me

To pull your friends' leg you don't need to make impossible to open the lock. Just a little trick is enough.
I liked cryptocat idea of cutting just the last part of the plug. IF you know the trick you can pick just the last pin and use a L shaped wire to turn the plug, but if you don't know...

Cheers

[FarmerFreak]

Something to think about on the second cylinder. On the lock I made, you may have noticed that it uses 2 pins. There is a reason for it to have 2 pins instead of one, or less!? This lock isn't key retaining and the driver/cam (not sure exactly what it is called) will spring back to neutral when the shackle is locked. The problem is if there are no pins in the back half. Say someone turns the key, opens the shackle and then takes the key out of the lock. And then closes the shackle. At that point the driver/cam can spin back to neutral, but there is nothing to stop the back of the cylinder from spinning farther. At that point you can't use the key to open it since the key won't be able to go all the way into the lock. If you had only one pin in the back half, then it could end up being picked simply by taking the key out and,....same problem can happen. With 2 pins this is not very likely to happen. Especially if you make sure that the 5th cut is deeper than the 6th,..check my key and you will see that I have done that too.

Another idea was to make the rear end a disc detainer. I liked that idea when I first read it. But on this lock I wouldn't be able to make it work. Since they usually turn, what 45-90 degrees just to line up the discs before the cylinder even starts to turn. But the metal cap needed on the front of this lock won't allow me to turn the key more than 90 degrees, and the lock needs all of those degrees to open. That is unless I wan't to cut a big notch out by the head of the key. But that would result in a very weak key prone to breaking.

[raimundo]

you have broken down the problem of picking a 6 pin lock into the much simpler problem of picking a four pin lock and a two pin lock, Im certain that I could pick both simultaneously with a bogota rake, of course the longer tensor would be necessary but some of mine already reach the fifth pins, so no problem there, ifthere was a problem there I would twist the tip of the tensor blade just a bit to adjust that.

I assume that you have already discovered this in practice picking the modded cylinder

the bogota rake works like a half diamond pick that is in a two pin lock, as you move it back and forth, the one pin rises and the other falls, the bogota rake just reduces a 6 pin lock into three two pin locks in this regard, the concave slopes allow for the variation in pin lengths by not filling the keyway with unnecessary blockages because it only takes a tiny tip on the peaks to lift a pin high in the keyway and the broad openness of the valleys allow for most other long pins to find room to satisfy the shearline.

[SnowyBoy]

Just wanna throw a little something in the mix. I'll break it down simply

> 2 part key (say 6 pin)
> 2 part cylinder

> Back part (closest to the bow) turns 45 degrees & decodes the first 3 pins.

> front part (back 3 pins in the lock) come into play AFTER the first part has been decoded and turned allowing to turn the rest of the way.

> all you need now is something to stop the back part being picked while the front part is still in the locked position. Maybe a cog system?

Just looking at getting the front of the cylinder to have to be turned first slightly to block the back part from picking.

[GWiens2001]

Yes, necro-posting. But what if someone were to drill a hole in the lock body and partway into the front plug. Install a very weak spring with a magnet pin that had to be pushed out of the plug by a magnet installed in the key, or with a rare-earth magnet held (with the correct polarity, of course) to the outside of the lock. It may require some sort of lever system if using a rare-earth magnet held to the front of the lock to operate.

Or perhaps a simple two pin trap pin assembly similar to one I have seen before, where the spring loaded pin is parallel to the keyway, and a passive pin that activates by the sprung pin when the plug is turned so the passive pin is wedged up into the pin channel of a picked pin without a key holding the key pin up.

This could be a way of making a trap pin to lock the plug in place, but still be able to reset it without disassembling the lock once it is fired.

FarmerFreak - you up to giving that a shot? I'd pay you to make the modifications to the lock and/or key as long as I got to keep it after your testing is done. This offer would be open to others, but anyone interested in trying it, please PM me, so I don't end up on the hook for 30 locks.

Gordon