Information about locks themselves. Questions, tips and lock diagram information should be posted here.
by Squelchtone » 2 May 2010 1:03
dougfarre wrote:Im still confused about why the re-key key has the same biting (spel?) as the regular key.
In order to put the lock in programming mode and have it wait for a key with new bitting you have to do 2 things. 1. insert reset key that has same bitting in order to lift all pins to 'shear' so that they are not hanging into the shell which stops rotation, and have them lifted to the true gates so when you try to rotate it will allow the left sidebar to collapse in and allow rotation from 12 to 11 oclock. 2. Normally a normal key turned from 12 to 11 CCW would just turn the plug, but the blue reset key has more material on the blade which when the key is inserted into the lock, the extra blue material pushes on a spring loaded plunger, and by moving that plunger out of the way, you now allow the right sidebar assembly to swing away from the rest of the plug, and this seperates the key pins from the sidebar pins which means the lock just had its programming wiped out. Remove the old blue key, insert another blue key with different bitting, turn from 11 to 12 CW which now allows the right sidebar assembly to mate with the current heights of the left sidebar pins and voila, the lock has been rekeyed to the new key's bitting. hope that help Squelchtone

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by dougfarre » 2 May 2010 8:50
Oh, so you have to buy a new blue key every time you want to re-pin the lock? Lame.. I think Kwickset wins this round.
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by raimundo » 2 May 2010 8:59
I see that it has a + over the keyway for recognizing the type of lock, just as the everest has the inverted v symbol beside the keyway.
Wake up and smell the Kafka!!!
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by tballard » 19 May 2010 13:58
Holy cr@p! Those pictures are fantastic! I've spent a lot of time playing with mine, but I'm seeing details I overlooked already! Thank you, I can't wait for the writeup.
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by Squelchtone » 19 May 2010 14:03
dougfarre wrote:Im still confused about why the re-key key has the same biting (spel?) as the regular key.
Well, not only does the blue key have the extra material in the blade which pushes on the spring loaded bit to allow the plug to separate the sidebar pins from the key pins, but in order to turn from 12 back to 11 o'clock, you need to move all the sidebar pins out of the way by actually making the lock go into "shear line" mode otherwise it will not turn from 12 back to 11. Do you see in the photos how the pins hang low when no key is interted? They come out of the plug and into the square holes in the kik cylinder's housing. putting in the correct key doesnt just get them out of those square holes, it also aligned the true sidebar gates, and allows for the 12 to 1 rotation as well. I almost forgot to mention that. Hope this explains it. Squelchtone
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by Squelchtone » 19 May 2010 14:06
squelchtone wrote:dougfarre wrote:Im still confused about why the re-key key has the same biting (spel?) as the regular key.
Well, not only does the blue key have the extra material in the blade which pushes on the spring loaded bit to allow the plug to separate the sidebar pins from the key pins, but in order to turn from 12 back to 11 o'clock, you need to move all the sidebar pins out of the way by actually making the lock go into "shear line" mode otherwise it will not turn from 12 back to 11. Do you see in the photos how the pins hang low when no key is interted? They come out of the plug and into the square holes in the kik cylinder's housing. putting in the correct key doesnt just get them out of those square holes, it also aligned the true sidebar gates, and allows for the 12 to 1 rotation as well. I almost forgot to mention that. Hope this explains it. Squelchtone
oh man, I need to get some sleep.. I think I already answered this for dougfarre about 4 posts up.... Squelchtone
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by Eyes_Only » 8 Jun 2010 15:30
Home Depot is finally carrying and selling these suckers? I've been out of the locksport circle for almost 2 months due to health reasons so I got some catching up to do.
And as far as dealing with the sharp shape of the "pins" I'd want to give the Peterson DCAP lifter picks or one of the new Sparrows hook pick a try that has a little notch at the tip to kinda "cradle" the pin in to maybe prevent the pick from sliding off.
If a lock is a puzzle, then its key is the complete picture
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by ToolyMcgee » 9 Jun 2010 20:42
Great posts tballard! I finally found a deadbolt in Menards today. Picked it open this afternoon. Farmerfreak was right about staying center on the pins helping the picking. I have been able to open it several times to rekey now CCW. A sturdier construction than Smartkey to be sure, but NOT as secure as a standard Schlage cylinder except to bumping and picking attacks, in which case it is much more secure... Anyway I'll have the vid up on youtube in a few minutes. Thanks for the info FF, squelchtone, tballard, DG.
*blank*
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by globallockytoo » 10 Jun 2010 2:14
I suspect that people who buy this lock and lose the blue key are going to need to get one made in order to change the lock, in future.
When they release blanks to key cutters, I suggest the cost of one duplicate (onto the correct blank) is going to skyrocket significantly, when locksmiths realise that it is for the express purpose of bypassing their onsite attendances and services.
I know that I would be charging at least $25 for a duplicate onto one of the special blanks. Then there is the second blue key that comes with the new keys to change to. HD and Lowes use so many part timers in their employ, they arent going to be able to train people to deal with these issues.
Schlage might be attempting to muscle in on the Smartkey market, but I suggest that this is going to severely hurt their sales and service.
Aside from this, once picked to the 11 o'clock position, what is to stop you from pushing the tab apart with a tool? so you can then rekey it?
One One was a race horse, one one won one race, one two was a racehorse, one two won one too.
Disclaimer: Do not pull tag off mattress. Not responsible for legal advice while laughing. Bilock - The Original True Bump Proof Pin Tumbler System!
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by FarmerFreak » 10 Jun 2010 7:24
globallockytoo wrote:I know that I would be charging at least $25 for a duplicate onto one of the special blanks. Then there is the second blue key that comes with the new keys to change to. HD and Lowes use so many part timers in their employ, they arent going to be able to train people to deal with these issues.
We also plan on charging a premium price. We still don't have a set price for them yet and whatever we charge will probably change pending on how well HD/Lowes takes care of the problems and what they charge. We've already had a customer bring one into our shop to have it keyed to his older house key. I cut a dupe, milled it down and rekeyed it. We quoted and charged a little more than a standard rekey. We probably could have charged more than we did as I doubt he could have gotten that done anywhere else at this time. Oh well  , maybe next time. globallockytoo wrote:Aside from this, once picked to the 11 o'clock position, what is to stop you from pushing the tab apart with a tool? so you can then rekey it?
Nothing. It's a piece of cake at that point.
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by tballard » 10 Jun 2010 7:45
FarmerFreak wrote:We've already had a customer bring one into our shop to have it keyed to his older house key. I cut a dupe, milled it down and rekeyed it. We quoted and charged a little more than a standard rekey. We probably could have charged more than we did as I doubt he could have gotten that done anywhere else at this time. Oh well  , maybe next time.
Why the heck don't I have locksmiths like you in my area!? You probably still needed to use a wire or something to push the little tab though right? (Because a standard blank doesn't have that extra little bit of material on the warding)
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by FarmerFreak » 10 Jun 2010 19:09
tballard wrote:FarmerFreak wrote:We've already had a customer bring one into our shop to have it keyed to his older house key. I cut a dupe, milled it down and rekeyed it. We quoted and charged a little more than a standard rekey. We probably could have charged more than we did as I doubt he could have gotten that done anywhere else at this time. Oh well  , maybe next time.
Why the heck don't I have locksmiths like you in my area!? You probably still needed to use a wire or something to push the little tab though right? (Because a standard blank doesn't have that extra little bit of material on the warding)
I can't answer why there aren't any locksmiths like me in your area. It's possible there is, but finding them (him?) could be hard to do. Of course the only reason we were able to do the job was because I bought one of the locks myself so I could figure it out... And yes I used a wire to push in the tab (I believe I used a paperclip  ).
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by globallockytoo » 10 Jun 2010 19:13
were you able to actually re-key the lock without the "blue" change key?
One One was a race horse, one one won one race, one two was a racehorse, one two won one too.
Disclaimer: Do not pull tag off mattress. Not responsible for legal advice while laughing. Bilock - The Original True Bump Proof Pin Tumbler System!
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by FarmerFreak » 10 Jun 2010 19:40
globallockytoo wrote:were you able to actually re-key the lock without the "blue" change key?
Yep, here is a picture of some keys I milled down the first day I got the lock so that I could rekey it.  At the time I used my Locknewb short hook to hit the tab. 
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