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by aussielocky » 4 Jul 2010 16:56
If your going to do 'bump & grind' impressioning then vice grips work just fine (with slight mods to the back of the jaws)
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aussielocky
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by unbreakable » 4 Jul 2010 16:57
I haven't used any of those, but visegrips I have found to work well enough. The one benefit to one of those tools would be to prevent damage to the key head, depending on how they grip it I suppose.
I modded my vise grips (impressioning dedicated) by epoxying leather from an old belt to the jaws, and drilling a hole in them for a pin that fits thru the keychain hole in keys. They don't have the same grippin capability after the leather, but I found the addition of a pin keeps the key in place.
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unbreakable
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by criminalhate » 4 Jul 2010 19:36
aussielocky wrote:If your going to do 'bump & grind' impressioning then vice grips work just fine (with slight mods to the back of the jaws)
Do you have anymore info on the mod? unbreakable wrote:I modded my vise grips (impressioning dedicated) by epoxying leather from an old belt to the jaws, and drilling a hole in them for a pin that fits thru the keychain hole in keys. They don't have the same grippin capability after the leather, but I found the addition of a pin keeps the key in place.
Where did you add the hole for the pin? I might have to make a pair.
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criminalhate
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by jos weyers » 6 Jul 2010 15:03
this one i don't like; the key has way too much give played with the framon one, very sturdy grip would definitely want one used to be the standard. it's LIGHT which i like. but while changing a key during a panic situation in a competition you would prefer the framon. no question it has been for quite some time, but if you order it directly from oli's site no-one will ask for any security clearance. http://translate.google.com/translate?j ... l=de&tl=en(make sure to select "english" )
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by raimundo » 7 Jul 2010 9:05
I use the baby vise grip, the weight of the tool is important, a heavy tool will cause heavier use, and break more blanks.
My vise grips are not modified, but I put the blank in the jaw so that the wire cutter cuts into the bow of the key, (impressioned keys are just made to be copied on a clean blank)
this means that when I clamp it as strongly as I can onto the key bow, the serrated jaw of the plier sets into the bow of the key and this area can be twisted in a bumping binding but with the edge of the keybow bit into by the wire cutter,this stabilizes, its also possible to just but a filed in dent in the keybow to set the wire cutter into to get the same effect.
Use only petersen nebraska vicegrips, all imitations are inferior.
Wake up and smell the Kafka!!!
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by shadow11612 » 8 Jul 2010 9:05
All of the "Locksmith" impressioning tools mentioned here have one thing in common. They are stupidly expensive. I mean the Clean Grip tool runs about $75, the Framon tool is about $70, the Pro Lock is $25 and the vise grips are $30. That is insane.
Go to Home Depot, Lowes, or any preferred hardware store and pick up some small vise grips for $10 or less and have at it.
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by jos weyers » 8 Jul 2010 15:09
@shadow11612
yep, they cost money. Using a vice grip will make your key move sideways, causing it to break. So you should use something that can move the key in line. which these grips do. My grip is just a piece of pipe with two screws through them. (about one euro in material, and fifteen minutes of work) but they do the trick.
But changing a key during a competition will cost you several seconds less if you use the fremon.
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jos weyers
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by shadow11612 » 16 Jul 2010 12:08
jos weyers wrote:My grip is just a piece of pipe with two screws through them. (about one euro in material, and fifteen minutes of work) but they do the trick.
I guess you made my point also. I was just trying to state that there are many less expensive and in someways better tools than was you can buy. Just look at the picks many guys use. 
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by criminalhate » 18 Jul 2010 23:59
It's true that things cost money. Somethings can be made with the same quality or better quality then a bought tool. Sometimes the tool is better fitted to the job then anything that can be put together.
Example: I can use a chopstick with sand paper to file a key but it will take me about 100x longer then using a round / impressioning file. The cost for these tools are not that much compared to a lot of other tools (grinder, drill press, lathe, welder, etc).
Look at the price of good files. The benefit is getting a quality tool that will last a very long time.
And thanks Jos for the very detailed break down of each. I don't plan on joining any comps but that may change if I can get half as good as you. So looks like I'll be getting the Framon.
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by Pixtiva » 19 Jul 2010 1:18
I'm mostly just on this site trying to figure out how to make a key work for a lockset that "you shouldn't change." But... Why not just use a good strong big ol' bench vise? Most of my metalworking experience is around benchrest target shooting... And accuracy requires either completely immobilizing the piece, or perfectly indicating it...
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by ufd538 » 20 Jul 2010 0:17
Here is a great homemade impressioning tool...the key to a good tool is the amount of surface grabbing the key. Get a pair of needle nose vise grips that have jaws that are the closest to being parallel with each other. cut of about three quarters of an inch off the tips...holds suberbly.
So many tools out there to be bought by locksmiths....the trick is to know what to buy.
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