Need input on Homebrewed Short Hook

[Theist17]

Hey guys,

I've been hanging about for nearly a year now, and after having made a couple of picks, I've come to wonder just how well I've made them. I used a template for this pick (one of Ratyoke's, I believe) but I feel like I need to have someone who knows what they're talking about tell me if I'm on the right track with this or not.

Below, I've posted a link to a picture of my short hook's shaft. If there are any improvements you can think of, please let me know. I'm sure it would help anyone who is working on their own set to get a little extra advice on the end result they should be looking for. I mean, templates are great and all, but sometimes that extra little human insight is invaluable.

Thanks!

[illusion]

I'd personally find it difficult to set a short pin adjacent to a long pin with such a shallow hook - I find having a deeper hook makes it much easier to set high-low-high-low pin combinations without upsetting the already set pins.

Handle is interesting, thinking of making something similar for some MTL picks to turn easily.

Question is, how does the took work for you?

[Theist17]

I've found that this pick works fairly well on the locks I've picked. The most difficult lock I've picked so far is the Master #532, so it's nothing terribly difficult. My major concern is versatility. I'm pretty sure that this hook wouldn't work wonders with something a bit more complex, like a low-high-high-low keying or some such problem. I'm not ruling out making more picks, but making sweeps and is a bit difficult when the only materials I really have access to on my student budget are windshield wiper inserts and a few hand files. Haha

Since I keep such a minimal kit (DE tension tool, short hook, and a pair of Bogotas), I'd like for my hook to be as versatile as possible.


Just a note on the handles here:

This handle is made from a crepe myrtle branch. I first cut a piece of the branch which I found suitable for a pick handle, then I sanded it smooth with a sanding block. I believe it was graded "Fine." Other than that, I have no idea about grit and such. I then cut a clot about half of the depth I needed and let that dry. This allowed for expansion from moisture loss. I then sawed away the rest needed for my pick's shaft to sit flush, sanded it all again, and epoxied the shaft into the handle. I let it set for two days for certainty's sake, and it has held up just fine.

[raimundo]

short hooks can be remarkablely effective.

I always start picking at the deepest pin, (unless some other pin set as I was working the pick to the back of the lock)
and if there is a long pin in front of a short one, Im picking that short pin first, and then the long one so no problem.

keys fit the keyway and fill it. this keeps the top pins from falling into the bottom of the keyway at 180 degrees.
Picks are an order of magnitude (figure of speach) smaller than a key and is not made to fill the keyway, in fact they are made to move easily up and down as well as in and out.
This agility is the key to picking, so if a pin requires a lift of several bitting steps, the hook can reach under another pin and give it that lift. Remember that MACS makes a 0-9 an unlikly bitting, and you need to realise that your short hook can usually satisfy the requirement.
picks should not be designed to fit extremes of bittings and should be sanded round on the sharp edges to increase agility and reduce false feels from in the lock.

Most bent picks were bent by forcing the pick against some warded shoulder jutting out inside the keyway. the action that does this will never help to open a lock.