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Questions from a frustrated noob..

Picked all the easy locks and want to step up your game? Further your lock picking techniques, exchange pro tips, videos, lessons, and develop your skills here.

Questions from a frustrated noob..

Postby ckc123 » 3 Jan 2011 19:55

Sorry for the noob questions....

I've been able to do the typical bike cylinder locks for a while, I've recently gotten into trying proper locks.. I can get a lock to open that does not have security pins, but those with pins are driving me nuts, and I have a few questions on my observations over the last few days..

1) On some locks I've noticed that the first pin gets stuck "up". I'm assuming that this is not a good thing, and I need to release the tension a bit??

2) sometimes when I release tension sometimes I only hear one click (Assuming it's due to the security pin), other times I hear 3-4 clicks (Assume this is a good sign as I got several pins above the shear point before the security pin false set)??????

3) I've recently been trying a Blue Brinks 40mm which I think only has a single security pin, as you can feel it distinctly "set", and then when I go back I can feel the cylinder rotate "back".. (using SPP method).. if the lock only has a single security pin, can you then switch to a rake method???

4) I've also noticed (on the blue brinks) that I will get to a point where the front pin will not go all the way "up" and I'm assuming that this is because that pin is already "set" and it's past the shear point so the pin is hitting the top of the cylinder wall?? (A good sign????)

Thanks in advance..
ckc123
 
Posts: 195
Joined: 2 Jan 2011 21:49
Location: North of the GTA

Re: Questions from a frustrated noob..

Postby SPP » 6 Jan 2011 16:16

1) I guess you’re over setting it (=the key pin is pushed over the sheer line and into the chamber of the driver pin). You just have to be careful. I’m sure a lot of the members here would recommend light tension, which is probably the best, although I would encourage you to try heavy tension and an American pick (as opposed to European picks which are not as robust/stiff). The heavy tension is _sometimes_ preventing over setting.

2) The more clicks the better! Although you hear clicks from pins that are over set as well…

3) Yes! Although SPP is much more fun! You can as well rake it from the start (you don’t have to set the security pin with SPP first)

4) Most likely!

Keep picking!
SPP
 
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Joined: 20 Nov 2010 8:09
Location: Sweden

Re: Questions from a frustrated noob..

Postby illusion » 6 Jan 2011 16:49

ckc123 wrote:Sorry for the noob questions....
1) On some locks I've noticed that the first pin gets stuck "up". I'm assuming that this is not a good thing, and I need to release the tension a bit??

2) sometimes when I release tension sometimes I only hear one click (Assuming it's due to the security pin), other times I hear 3-4 clicks (Assume this is a good sign as I got several pins above the shear point before the security pin false set)??????

3) I've recently been trying a Blue Brinks 40mm which I think only has a single security pin, as you can feel it distinctly "set", and then when I go back I can feel the cylinder rotate "back".. (using SPP method).. if the lock only has a single security pin, can you then switch to a rake method???

4) I've also noticed (on the blue brinks) that I will get to a point where the front pin will not go all the way "up" and I'm assuming that this is because that pin is already "set" and it's past the shear point so the pin is hitting the top of the cylinder wall?? (A good sign????)

Thanks in advance..


1: It means you're lifting the pin stack too high so the bottom pin goes above the sheer line and gets caught - You'll often realise you've done this because none of the other pins will bind, unless the lock is properly cheap trash and the tolerances are awful, or your lock has fancy security bottom pins. Lift the stack slowly and wait for the movement or click from the cylinder - being too aggressive or hasty causes this to happen generally.

2: Depends, could have false set the security pins and they're just dropping down when the tension is released, or as the poster above said the bottom pins have been lifted above the sheer line, or they were correctly set and been reset... Different locks respond to tension differently.

3: When you feel the cylinder rotate as you lift the pin, you're either moving the plug itself with the pick by mistake, or the security pin is forcing the plug to rotate. Ease up the tension a bit and lift the pin, whilst feeling the plug rotate back to its neutral position. You have to be careful you don't unset the other pins but gently keep lifting it up and the pin should set correctly. Depending on the key bitting this may be difficult. You can rake with a lock full of security pins, it's just trickier - less tension or bounce the wrench gently and rock the rake about in the lock; I find the latter to work better. Assuming you false set a security pin you can go back and SPP it afterwards.

4: You often find this with serrated pins. Spool and mushroom pins will give you the sensation of being set but serrated pins tend to dig in and get jammed. Try loosening off the tension a bit and seeing if it lifts a bit more, or lift it up high and apply more tension as it lowers to try and catch the sheer line on the way down. You may have set the top pin and the plug has moved enough to stop the bottom pin from being lifted but usually you can visually see when the plug has moved this much - You see it especially on Mul-T-Locks when the outer pins have all been set and the plug moves a lot and binds on the inner pins, as an example.

Food for though.
illusion
 
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Joined: 2 Sep 2005 13:47


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