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by anoops » 13 May 2011 15:29
I have a problem with this Magnum series lock, doesn't seem like anyone has tried it or talked about it. Basically, I have to put a large amount of pressure to get any pins to bind. With that much pressure, I can get 2 pins to bind but then no other pins will bind... I'm probably oversetting those pins.
I try the key that comes with the lock, the key itself takes a lot of force to turn. So I'm wondering if anyone has tried this lock. When it takes a lot of tension to turn the actual key, does that mean I'll need a lot of tension with my wrench? I get the feeling that all my problems are tension, but if anyone has advice with this I'd appreciate it. Thanks.
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by MacGnG1 » 14 May 2011 16:14
please provide a picture so we can help you better
Nibbler: The poop-eradication is but one aspect of your importance.
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by MBI » 15 May 2011 5:14
Have you tried lubing the lock?
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by raimundo » 15 May 2011 9:31
I see that this is your first post,
I have not tried that lock and don't own one,
trying to make pins set by force of tension alone does not work
there is a difference between binding a pin and setting it.
thats a newbie idea that its all about force to make pins bind.
Maybe someone else here does know that lock and can advise you
Wake up and smell the Kafka!!!
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by Raymond » 15 May 2011 17:46
Lets try to answer the question in logical steps. Definitely start by lubing the lock. Does the key turn more easily after lubing or is the force the same, only smoother? After the shackle is out, does the key turn much more easily or just as stiffly? Does this lock lock the shackle with brass or steel plates or does it lock with ball bearings? Either can provide a definite spring pressure to reverse the turning of the key, and by extension, the turning of the plug by the turning tool. Sufficient turning force must be applied by the turning tool to JUST overcome this reverse turning pressure. With the shackle out, all of the key turning pressure should be relieved as the spring return pressure is temporarily relieved until the shackle is locked.
If the key is still difficult to turn then something else is wrong and it is probably not related to picking. If this is a new lock, check other similar locks at the store and trade it back for one that works smoothly.
Nothing is foolproof to a talented fool. Wisdom is not just in determining how to do something, but also includes determining whether it should be done at all.
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by anoops » 15 May 2011 20:27
Thanks for all the replies. I wasn't expecting so much help. Here's the lock: http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-M115K ... 459&sr=8-4I picked it up at Home Depot for a storage unit, it's "weather proof", boron shackle, looks tough... magnum tough, so I grabbed it. Then after reading here about cutting locks and how easily they can be picked, I put a Master D40 on my unit until my Abus 20/70 arrived in the mail. Never actually used this m115 on anything, but I intended to, so I lubed it with a non-oil Telfon lube as soon as I opened it. Raymond, once the shackle is open, the cylinder turns easily. When closed it takes more force than a normal lock to turn the key. It looks like two stainless ball bearings keep the shackle in place. So I take it that it'll just take a lot of pressure to do this to overcome a spring in the plug? I'm going to try and pick it with the lock unlocked since there's no pressure, once I figure that out I'll try it locked with heavier tension.
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by anoops » 15 May 2011 20:49
I don't know if this counts. But once I unlocked the lock, returned the cylinder to the "locked" position, I was able to pick it and turn the plug. Does that count? Picking unlocked locks?
So I guess it's just a matter of keeping enough pressure to turn the plug, then enough pressure to get the first pin to bind. I read that none of the magnum line had security pins or anything difficult, the tension on this lock is hard for a beginner.
I never noticed the key turned easy when unlocked. Thanks for the troubleshooting steps... that's not something I would normally do, turning the key once it's open.
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by raimundo » 16 May 2011 10:15
with the flat steel or brass locking dogs, you can overcome the resistance a shackle spring adds by rubberbanding the shackle until it just releaves that pressure and avoid overdoing it as you can have the same problem forcing the shackle down too hard on these locking dogs.
on the ball type locking dog, I don't think that you get this same resistance, but this type of lock often has a spring directly connected to the the rotator that controls the locking balls. This cannot be affected by rubberbands.
Raymond really gave you a good answer, his posts are very well informed and hes willing to help. click his profile and read his posts, you can learn a lot.
Wake up and smell the Kafka!!!
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by Raymond » 16 May 2011 20:34
Thanks Rai.
Anoops, it looks like you answered your own question correctly after reading the sign posts. None of us have seen all the locks. Experience just helps us make better guesses. Locksmithing and picking are basically very simple concepts. Its the fifty-bi-jillion variations that keep us all guessing.
Git er done.
Raymond
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