Falle clone tensioners

by **bushd** » 24 Sep 2004 0:33

I have always loved the concept behind the Falle adjustable tension wrenches but I am not a locksmith and just don't have the kind of money required for a good set of those. So, to fix this problem I have come up with my own templates for them. One ended for a total of four. I know Falle is double with I believe five or six but unless I find a more precise need, which I doubt I will, then four will be good. I come up with four for the following reason: the width of the keyway entry. I have plans for a .5mm for the smallest locks, 1mm, 1.5mm and 2mm for the bigger ones. I believe they will be 2-3mm deep into the lock and height will be adjustable from 5mm to 17mm on each. I do not have pictures nor cad designs for these yet because I don't have that much time and probably will not until next week if I am lucky.

If anyone has had any sort of venture in this style of tensioner then please leave comments on your finding on building or even use of them and possibilities for design improvements on Falle's.

An addition: I may create two sets. One for 1.5-2mm depth into the keyway for tension hold and one for 2.5-3mm.

I give difference there and not exact numbers because I haven't gone around measuring all sorts of locks and until I get some solid numbers they will vary.

by **WhiteHat** » 24 Sep 2004 4:19

a while ago, Mad mick had an attempt at doing something similar.

viewtopic.php?t=2498&highlight=falle

seemed a promising design.

by **bushd** » 24 Sep 2004 7:53

More then likely these will be shaped from hacksaw blades making them durable and bendable. Hopefully I will be able to get that 90* bend without breaking but will probably require my heat gun. I've tried a tweezer like method but I didn't like it because of the tension feedback from the tweezers itself so I am going to a adjustable locking method like the Falle style tensioners.

by **TOWCH** » 24 Sep 2004 13:05

I have a single sided copy of his that isn't quite finished. I need to go to the hardware store to pick of the nuts and bolts to hold the slider on to the base and dremel in the grooves to recieve the bolts. I had put it on hold because I didn't really need it but I'll try and hurry up and finish it so I can post some pics.

by **Chucklz** » 24 Sep 2004 13:38

If you are going to make/share these templates, the easiest way to go about it in my opinion, would be to make a tracing/drawing of the cut out before you begin bending.

In this case, I that that spring steel, or stainless steel stock will probably bend more successfully than hacksaw blade material, but of course it is a fair bit more expensive.

by **bushd** » 24 Sep 2004 14:07

I planned on taking my dremel to hacksaw blades (they're grey and the sharpie doesn't come off at all which is a plus) and each tensioner will be two parts connected by bolt & closed nut. The hard part will be the bending of the entry holds so I will more then likely take my heat gun to it and see how well that comes out. If it works well then fine, otherwise I will be investing in spring steel.

by **TOWCH** » 24 Sep 2004 14:31

I used brickstrap for mine and the bends were no problem. I think the hardest part is going to be making the nice smooth channels for the bolt.

by **TOWCH** » 24 Sep 2004 18:27

by **WhiteHat** » 24 Sep 2004 18:42

they look good, but isn't the top prong supposed to be vertical? or do those work well? how to you attach them to eachother when picking? rubber band?

by **TOWCH** » 24 Sep 2004 18:48

It's not finished yet but to test them out I used a hair tie and rubber band. I plan on drilling a small hole in the base piece for a bolt with a slot in the slider to recieve the bolt. Then a nut on top and bottom for friction and I'll be set. Pretty much exactly like Falle's. The top tab doesn't have to be vertical if it thin enough to fit in most keyways. If I remember correctly, Falle's isn't vertical either. One problem is I've made the prongs too long and need to shorten them. The top prong is stopped by the first pin about half way into deadbolt on my front door. I expect similiar results with most other locks unless I shorten that tab or more likely both. They're about 3/4" long right now and I figure 3/8" would be perfect.

by **Mad Mick** » 24 Sep 2004 18:55

Very nice work there TOWCH, but as WhiteHat has pointed out, the top tang should be thinner. You could slim it, or put a twist in it...slimming would be better. As for joining the two parts, if you have access to a mig, just drill though the two 'handles' and tack a machine screw in place. Grind down the head almost flush, then elongate the hole in the other blade. Secure with a nylock nut & washer on the other side. The channel doesn't have to be perfect at this stage...just functional enough to allow adjustment. Once the tool proves itself, then you work on the aesthetics.

Good work though.

by **S3rratedSp00L** » 25 Sep 2004 15:09

Nice progress on this tool! I have been wanting one of these for a while and may be inspired to make one soon! Well, maybe after I move...

I got an idea for getting the slot to line up straight. Clamp the 2 pieces together and put them in a vice. Make it so that the pieces are clamped in the closed position, then drill your first hole through both pieces. Then clamp it together in the open position and use a marker to mark the center of the hole in the top piece down onto the bottom piece.. Then clamp just the bottom in the vice and drill a hole on that center mark. Take the dremel and cut between the two holes as straight as possible and you have a slot that should line up reasonablly well.

The size and everything is completely up to you.. Since I haven't made one, I don't know from experience how much the slot size has an effect on operation of the tool..

De-Burr, polish, put together with nut, bolt and washer, and you've got a nice tool.. Then adjust to taste!

...of course!

That tack welding idea would be cool.. Wish I had a mig.

I would also suggest using stainless or spring steel as others have said. I made a forked tool a while back out of a hacksaw blade and I must have ruined the temper because the thing was too soft and bendy afterward. I took the torch to it because it would shear when I cold bent it. Proved to be an excellent material for picks, but not for tension tools. I found a stainless steel hacksaw blade and gave it a try and it cold bent just fine and works well! Stainless is pretty good stuff!

Good job on those bends, how much heat, if any, did you use, roughly?

by **Chucklz** » 25 Sep 2004 16:34

Instead of attempting to dremel a straight line, why not drill a series of holes, then use a small file to clean it up ?

by **TOWCH** » 26 Sep 2004 23:13

Chucklz idea seems like it would have the best results. I've tried doing clean cuts with cutoff wheels and a dremel before and it rarely comes out pretty. I'll post updated photos once it's finished.

by **thertel** » 26 Sep 2004 23:52

When you guys refer to a mig welder is that the same thing as a Tig Welder?

Thomas

Falle clone tensioners

Falle clone tensioners

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