Different types of locks

[mewpal]

As a beginner, I hope other people wonder about this too, but you pros out there make think this a silly question, but since it would really help me learn more, Ill ask. I was just wondering how you tell the difference between different locks. You say Masters are easier than, oh... Yales, but how are they any different from each other. I have heard of mushroom pins and vaguely understand the concept (MIT guide has helped), but how do you know if you've encountered them? Thanks in advance guys.

[mr.91]

there are diffrent types of locks some easer some hard to pick. there is one kind of lock i forgot the name but i heard the only way to pick it is speacial picks.then theres name brand locks wich are better because they usealy have an easer to turn key. Aso some lock have defects like master lock theres a defect that make them easer to pick.there also are differnt tipes of pin like musroom that make it harder to pick!

[Varjeal]

There's a few differences between different types of locks. I'll list a few, and I'm sure others will add on. Btw, it's not a silly question.

1. Each brand/type of lock differs in the particular shape of the keyway or plug itself. Some are fairly wide open and easy to get a pick into, while others are very tight and difficult to get anythinig but the most slim of picks.

2. Mechanical tolerances between the plug and shell may vary between brands from extremely sloppy (easy to pick) to very tight (difficult)

3. The actual shape of the pins in locks vary as well. Some have tapered points or offset points that ride on the key cuts while others are barely rounded. Some may have serrations and different types of crowns which change how the pin moves in its chamber. They may be wafers, split wafers, or pin within pin designs, or bearings. Top pins range from regular shapes, to spools, mushrooms, and serrated as well. There are also locks that contain masterpins. Shall I mention materials??? Although most pins are made of brass, high security locks often use steel, or may be of more exotic materials such as magnets, ball bearings, etc.

4. The locking mechanism attached to the cylinder itself varies between manufacturers, causing different amounts of sensation to be felt while picking, and forcing different amounts of tension to be used in order to manipulate them.

I'm sure there's more and others will be posting to help out.

As for mushroom/spool pins, you'll know you've encountered them while picking if the plug wants to turn against your tension suddenly while you're lifting one of the bottom pins. Knowledge of the lock that you're working on and the likelyhood of it having these type of anti-pick pins will also let you know when they might turn up. Some brands are far more likely than others to have 'em.

Hope this helps.

[Picker_Level-0]

ok but what about the actual types of lock, how can you tell by looking at them what they are, what are the differences, eg mortice lock, lever lock, pin tumbler, dead lock, wafer lock.....whats the difference, i know some but i think it would be useful if you could explain the differences breifly so its posted here. Its a problem i have, cuz i would like to start being able to classify locks as as look at them!

Also some locks work with discs dont they and not pins,??

[mr.91]

opps i forgot about that

[Hadrollo]

Also, with your locks like Yates and Lockwood they have the brand on the side and a key for one lock may just work on another of the same brand.

"No Go Zone" locks (I'm not sure if they are a different brand or a subsection) are easy to spot on school lockers as they are bright yellow, green, orange or pink . They have about 4 sets of keys so similar that with a bit of jiggling can open others of that "set". I have 2 of these keys so I can open about half the locks without picking.

[Varjeal]

For those who are interested only in picking the lock, but want to be able to identify the type of locking cylinder, you have a bit of a tough situation on your hands, and here's why:

1. There are some locks where the cylinders can be exchanged for different keyways in order to accomodate other locks for a "one key fits all locks" system. I'd like to be able to list the type of locks, but it's almost endless.

2. In the world today there are probably over 3-5000 different types of keys and growing.

3. Companies, whether they admit it or not, copy each other's designs to make point 1 possible.

4. Some companies who make extremely poor quality locks (but cheap) do not do this. Even though they may "look" like more popular brands, often even their keyblanks are unusual.

There for the answer to the question "How do you tell what type of lock it is?" is this: You really can't unless the name is stamped on it, or you open the door and look at the latch (if it is a mortised and not press in type) or tear it apart to examine it.

All that said, there are ways to identify the keyway or cylinder that's being used. You'll have to get yourself a keyblank book from Curtis, Jet, or Ilco, and compare with locks you have. When you see a keyway that's unfamilar to you, copy the shape down exactly, then go back to your book and compare.

Now that I've been locksmithing for awhile, most of the time I can simply walk up to a lock, look at the plug, and from its shape tell you exactly what key would fit. This comes from experience and practice. If you can get your hands on some keyblanks, you can test the lock to see if your right.

I wish it were more simple than that, but that's as easy as it gets, folks.

Hope that helps.

[Varjeal]

In generally, there are two types of locking cylinders:

1. Wafer locks can be identified by looking into the keyway. You will see a square shaped brass piece at the top and/or bottom of the keyway. This identifies it as a wafer lock. These type of locks can be, quite honestly, found on pretty much anything. Quality ranges from poor to high security.

2. Pin tumbler locks. These locks can be identified by the cylindrical brass (or steel) shape in the keyway. Most residential locks will have brass or goldish colored pins while higher security ones may be colored or stainless steel.

To reply to Picker_Level-0 here it is:

1. A mortise lock is afixed to a door by creating a cut-out in the edge of the door. The door itself actually ends up containing the locking/latching mechanism. All you see on the ouside is the lock cylinder and handle.

2. A standard residential lock (At least in the America's) is the Key-in knob cylindrical lockset) which uses a spring loaded latch to secure a door.

3. The deadbolt is an auxillary lock whose bolt is not spring loaded and must be activated either by a key or thumbturn or remote.

4. Lever locks are generally mortise locks, but can be identified by their unique keyway shape.

Yes, some locks such as Abloy and others use disc, but in general they can be classified as wafers. High security locks often use unique configurations and materials such as magnets, ball, bearings, and other unique features.

I know this may seem kind of overwhelming, but if you have further questions I'll try to help. Sounds like another good idea for an FAQ.

Hope it helps.

[oniony]

Here in the UK, residential properties generally have two locks:

1. A sprung latch unit attached to the inside of the door connected to a pin-tumbler lock (like 'standard residentail lock' menioned in Varjeal's mail).

Example:



2. A mortice lever deadbolt typcially placed somewhat lower on the door.

Example:



Some properties do not have the deadbolt and some places have two, one in the top quarter of the door and a second in the bottom quarter.

About 10 or so years back I remember some of my friend's parents fitting subtle star-key locks to the top and bottom of doors to help prevent forced entry (e.g. ramming the door). These were generally intended for use when leaving the property empty for a longer period (vacation, etc.)

Please excue the huge, hotlinked pictures and if my use of the jargon is slightsly skewiff.

[prisoner1572]

Is there any difference picking the cylindrical key-in-knob locks than any other pin lock or are they wafer or something else?

[locksmistress]

Is there any difference picking the cylindrical key-in-knob locks than any other pin lock or are they wafer or something else?

Yes. Or maybe no. I'll give it a shot.

Picking is all (ok, mostly) about the cylinder. As Varjeal mentioned in his discussion of aftermarket products, there's the lock and the cylinder - and the cylinder could be almost anything.

A knob lock could have wafers, pins, wedge-tip pins, sidebar(s), spools, mushrooms, imbedded prox system (where you need a transponder type key like the ones in some cars), and none of the above. Some things you can tell by looking (wafers vs pins), some things you can tell by feeling (thumbpins that may indicate a side bar or pins on mutiple planes that may indicate a lock that takes a dimple key) and some things are just going to get past you (the prox readers are kind of subtle).

And they all pick differently.

It's just a matter of experience all over the place.

This isn't a complete anwer - I don't think you're going to get a really comprehensive answer - but here's a thread that might help someday:

http://www.lockpicking101.com/viewtopic.php?t=4153&highlight=database