Corbin-Russwin vs Schlage

[the_hacker]

I'm looking into replacing a couple of deadbolts but I'm not sure what brand to go with.

I've decided on either the Schlage B660 series or the Corbin-Russwin DL3000 deadbolts. There's not much info on the exact specifications of the DL3000s but I like the idea of using standard mortise cylinders rather than the KIK-type cylinder the Schlage uses. They're both Grade 1 and cost roughly the same amount, the Corbin costing a little more; and they both have ice pick shields (something I'd like to have).

I know it's a rather strange brand comparison but hopefully someone's instincts will be able to tell me which brand is the better choice. The Schlage has a much better warranty (the CR only has a 1 year) but it's more about product quality for me.

Thanks!

[Raymond]

Research the Lori deadbolts. They use only screw in mortise cylinders. With these you can put any level of security you want depending on the mortise cylinder you choose. Also, since the construction is considerably different from common deadbolts, I would consider them relatively icepick proof.

[the_hacker]

Research the Lori deadbolts. They use only screw in mortise cylinders. With these you can put any level of security you want depending on the mortise cylinder you choose. Also, since the construction is considerably different from common deadbolts, I would consider them relatively icepick proof.

I've actually heard about them quite a bit and they seem to be the same sort of thing as the Corbin. The thing with the Lori is that I believe it is only a Grade 2 product. I'd prefer to stick with grade 1 locksets as I have for the levers.

In fact, I'm almost convinced the Lori deadbolt is identical - or almost identical to the Corbin - I had a look at the installation manual and the parts are very similar to that of the Lori. The Lori deadbolt appears to use inexpensive, off-the-shelf parts, such as a $15 deadbolt assembly, while the Corbin might have upgraded steel components, etc.

I just don't know if Corbin is overpricing this product or if it's better than the Schlage deadbolt - considering I'll be paying more for the Corbin.

[cledry]

The Schlage B700 and B800 series would be my choice. Although the Corbin/Russwin is a nice lock too. The Loi and Dorma isn't quite as nice but does use mortise cylinders. I usually install doubles with mortise thumbturn rater than a single when using any of the locks that accept a mortise cylinder. If you are mainly concerned about reliability I would recommend a mortise deadbolt, and again use a double with a mortise thumbturn if you need a single.

[the_hacker]

Thanks for the advice cledry - I will be on the lookout for the Schlage B7/800s. The 800 may be a little expensive due to the Primus cylinder (I haven't been able to find an accurate price online) but the 700 seems like a good match.

I've decided to skip the Corbin as the bolt is actually made of Zinc with a hardened steel roller which is a pretty poor design - seems like something you'd find in a grade 2 (Schlage B562), inching a grade 3 bolt. All of the other brands like Sargent and Best all have some type of steel (stainless, hardened, etc.) comprising the main bolt in addition to the steel roller. All of the other features are nice but I'm not going to pay an inflated price for something that just doesn't seem to live up to what a Grade 1 lock should be.

Last question - I've noticed that high-grade deadbolts offered by Best and Sargent do not have an ice pick shield but rather have a short piece of trim that just enters the 2 1/8 hole. Is there any reason why a lot of manufacturers do this?

[cledry]

The short extension is pretty effective as the icepick is usually used when a lock becomes loose or the door is dented a bit. The full guard though is better. The lock grades aren't as cut and dried as you might think. In fact durability rather than security is more of a factor for most end users. A Grade 1 lever may use the same cylinder as a Grade 2 but will be built to withstand more daily traffic. There is an overlap in Grade 2 and Grade 1 deabolts so a good Grade 2 might equal a poor Grade 1. We generally spec Grade 1 for exteriors and Grade 2 for interiors.