Key is difficult to remove from medeco door lock

[cdman]

Hey guys- a quick question I'm hoping some of you may be able to help with:

My grandma has a medeco lock on her back door deadbolt. She called me over today to take a look at it because she could not pull the key out of it. I was able to get it out with some jiggling, but it seems like this will be a recurring problem so I want to try to fix it for her.
Other info:
-the lock seems to have been recently sprayed with wd-40
-the key goes in easily and turns easily; its only removing the key that is difficult
-I'm not sure, but these locks may be quite old (thought they all still work quite well except for this one)

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I have really enjoyed the site, by the way. Thanks for all that you guys do.

cd

[Arsenul]

Buy a new lock.

[sandplum]

My guess: the tailpiece or cam is loose. Try this... put your thumb on the front of the plug (next to the key hole) and push while you pull the key out with the other hand. If this improves key removal, then the lock must be disassembled and the screw or cap hoding the tailpiece needs to be tightened. (but not too much or the cylinder wont turn)

This problem occurs because the plug trys to come out with the key, off-setting the alignment of the lower pin chambers from the upper chambers. Pins can't lift up to allow the key to pass, key can't come out.

Electric contact cleaner will help remove the WD40

If tightening the plug doesn't help, have a Medeco locksmith re-pin the lock for you. Should solve the problem.

[cdman]

Thanks for the quick response. I shall give that a try and post back how it went

[cdman]

Solved! Big thanks to Sandplum for his advice- that was exactly the problem.

More info for others who may have this problem in the future:
This was a double-sided medeco deadbolt (no thumbkey turn- both sides need key to turn). To disassemble the lock you have to first remove a thin, round piece of metal that is shaped like a circle just under the rim of the lock face (on the side of the door that is inside the house). I used a safety pin to pry it out. This will enable you to then remove the metal plate on the lock face, behind which are two bolts. You will need an allen wrench to remove these two bolts. After that, pull the lock out from the door. On the back of the lock are two small screws- these are the screws that need to be tightened. You can test the key before reassembling to determine the right tightness of the screws.

cd

[cledry]

Solved! Big thanks to Sandplum for his advice- that was exactly the problem.

More info for others who may have this problem in the future:
This was a double-sided medeco deadbolt (no thumbkey turn- both sides need key to turn). To disassemble the lock you have to first remove a thin, round piece of metal that is shaped like a circle just under the rim of the lock face (on the side of the door that is inside the house). I used a safety pin to pry it out. This will enable you to then remove the metal plate on the lock face, behind which are two bolts. You will need an allen wrench to remove these two bolts. After that, pull the lock out from the door. On the back of the lock are two small screws- these are the screws that need to be tightened. You can test the key before reassembling to determine the right tightness of the screws.

cd

It is a common problem. Did you peen them so it doesn't happen again?

[sandplum]

Solved! Big thanks to Sandplum for his advice- that was exactly the problem.
cd

*her* advice <grin>

I'm glad it all worked out!

[cdman]

Did you peen them so it doesn't happen again?

You just taught me something new. A quick google search gives me an idea of what this is, but I'm not quite sure. What does this involve,- simply hammering the screw while it is in the lock?

*her* advice

My humblest of apologies, miss Sandplum

[mhole]

You can also put a dab of threadlock on the screws to prevent them working loose. This is a common fault on screw-on tail pieces, and easily diagnosed using sandplum's test. Those little screws get a jolt every time the door slams, and eventually it shakes them loose unless they're peined or thread-locked.

[cledry]

Did you peen them so it doesn't happen again?

You just taught me something new. A quick google search gives me an idea of what this is, but I'm not quite sure. What does this involve,- simply hammering the screw while it is in the lock?

*her* advice

My humblest of apologies, miss Sandplum

Example.

[gibson]

Is that the rarely seen Enfield lock? Honestly though, I would use the kind of lock-ite that is meant to be used on screws that might have to be un-loosened, or a clear nail polish before staking the screws

[cledry]

Is that the rarely seen Enfield lock? Honestly though, I would use the kind of lock-ite that is meant to be used on screws that might have to be un-loosened, or a clear nail polish before staking the screws

On a Medeco you do not need to loosen those screws. They have cap screws for rekeying.

On a mortise cylinder where it needs to be removed for each rekey of course blue Loctite is preferable. I have seen locks where too much of the correct Loctite was used and it can be a real pain to remove, so proper Loctite and proper application are important.

[raimundo]

enfield is it,

and that 'peening' is done with a center punch, which is struck so that the metasl mash together and resist turning, I usuall punch at the end of those screw slots spalling some metal into that groove but this only works where the screws are countersunk, as they typically are on the mortise cams.
a lock that has been worked on by a locksmith can loose some of this metal when the screws are removed so the locktite option is also good.