Re: Master Lock No.

[CFour]

I have been picking for about a week now. I have picked basic Kwiksets, a Schlage, and Master's #1, 3, and 5. All were opened the first time with Bogotas except the Master #1. I felt, at the time, that it wasnt my technique w/ the Bogotas that was the issue as I was averaging 5-15 seconds to open all of the locks listed above. After repeated failure on the #1, I gave it up for a couple I days, read a bunch of posts and tried everything I could think of. Heavy tension, light tension, different tensioners, making sure the tensioners weren't binding on the case of the lock, etc. etc...nothing was working. I was able to SPP it on a couple of occasions, but had zero luck with the Bogotas. That was until I tensioned counter clockwise. Ten seconds in, click and open. Thought it was a fluke but I am able to open it all of the time now only when turned counterclockwise. I know the key opens it when rotated both ways and since all of my other Master's (when tensioned clockwise) open quickly, I followed suit on the #1. I noticed that the core seems really loose, even in comparison with my other Master models, does anyone else have this issue? I understand the quality of the locks is definitely not the best, and may have some part in the issue, but I just wanted to see if you guys could break it down for me crayola-style. Thanks guys!

[raimundo]

Master locks have a four pincylinder that fits loosly in the laminated body. I have never compared this loosness with any other master lock so I cannot speak to that comparison.

there is a lamination that holds the cylinder in and your key or pick has to pass this lamination to reach the cyllinder,
the lamination is rough, just like all those cutbreak edges on the lock body, it may also be somewhat hardened,
this digs into the edge of the tensor blade as you pick
one trick to get around this, is to put a small piece of cocktail straw (plastic) on that part of the tensor, the plastic will stop the rough edge from digging into the edge of the tensor.

this same cap lamination also interferes with impressioning master locks and to get around that, you have to file down part, not all of the shoulder of the key blank.

there is also a tendency for practice locks to become eroded on the cylinder wall that is exposed to the tensor blade at the bottom of the keyway, and if grooves develope, they will tend to bind the tensor from applying its force to the plug rotation,
this erosion is due to too much force the same bugboo that screws with everyones picking from time to time.

do you have the key to that padlock, look at it, it might be a lot of low cuts which is a good reason that the single pin pick worked better than the rake.

[CFour]

Raimundo,
Genius. I have never heard of the straw trick! I do have the key, and the cuts aren't too deep so I gave it another go with the Bogota/tensioner and straw. Sure enough, right on the money. I knew that binding was an issue after reading some of the posts other members had composed concerning Master Locks. I assumed beforehand (read noob) that I was taking care of this issue but I think I just made it worse. Considering how loose the core is, it pivoted more inside the casing than my other Master's...and I think that was where the issue came into play. Low and behold a straw and premium advice saved the day. Thanks again - CFour