TOSL Project. A community project to "build a better mousetrap".
by vinnie » 11 Oct 2012 19:28
I would find it difficult to believe I'm the first to think of this, so I'm going to assume someone already has, but why not simply cut the pins like this? This was there is no possible shear line to rotate around. 'A' would be the cheap easy way, where it's a matter of an easy cut on the top and bottom pin. To make it effective simply alternate them back and forth (bottom pin cut on right, then bottom pin cut on left etc etc). 'B' a bit trickier to make, but still very simple. Possibly less effective too. Thoughts? 
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by vinnie » 11 Oct 2012 19:28
hHAHAAHAHA I'm an idiot.
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by vinnie » 11 Oct 2012 19:31
well it looks like in my effort to think up a lock that's impossible to pick, I thought up a lock that's impossible to open.
very well dumb.
feel free to delete this.. I don't know why I didn't think it through till I saw the picture posted
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by GWiens2001 » 11 Oct 2012 19:46
I think all of us come up with ideas that are impractical when built, although they seem like good ideas in the design stage. Don't be hard on yourself. Keep trying, because every good design out there was preceeded by some failed ideas. Even Davinci did some failed designs.
Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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by mh » 11 Oct 2012 21:52
Hi While it's not really cheap or simple, it's definitely possible to make a lock with this concept - the Corbin Emhart interlocking pins were similar. See e.g. https://sites.google.com/site/agentddr999/corbinemhartCheers mh
"The techs discovered that German locks were particularly difficult" - Robert Wallace, H. Keith Melton w. Henry R. Schlesinger, Spycraft: The secret history of the CIA's spytechs from communism to Al-Qaeda (New York: Dutton, 2008), p. 210
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by vov35 » 16 Oct 2012 20:29
this could be used as a means to measure pin rotation. ...and I think has... and I think that's what mh posted above me.
The BiLock isn't the first bump proof pin tumbler because it isn't a pin tumbler. And it's called a shear line, not a "sheerline".
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by SnowyBoy » 11 Nov 2012 12:31
LOL I totally sat there thinking 'yeah this is great!' but then realized that like you said, you can't open it with any type of key >_< Emhart has a lock that is kind of similar to your original principal, but the pins rotate and are interlocked. Difference is they have a gateway out all round the cylinder.  Nice idea none the less 
What a load of old BiLocks!!!!
I'm probably 0 for 400 in looking for safes behind wall paintings
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by SnowyBoy » 11 Nov 2012 12:33
I really should read ALL posts in the forum! MH beat me to it...
What a load of old BiLocks!!!!
I'm probably 0 for 400 in looking for safes behind wall paintings
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by steve honour » 21 Dec 2012 16:40
I know im a noob,how ever a couple of thoughts 1 does this "shaped union HAve to be at the sheer line? 2 if not this would not be a problem 3 yeah i know i said a couple of thought but if these "shapes are not at the sheer line why not put a tiny magnetised rods in the "key" and the appropriate magnet in the bottom pin (Remember like poles and unlike poles attract and repel, i think that as the key is removed it should scramble the settings. Have I got this totaly ass about face ? hope you grasp my solution. what do you guys think? ps im sure i didnt type donkey
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by Teddy Picker » 25 Dec 2012 16:48
It seems like some variation on your design A could actually be used to make it so the plug can only turn in one direction. Some locks are much easier to pick in the opposite direction to the way they lock, so you pick it in the opposite direction, and then use a plug spinner to spin it back. Using your pin design would prevent this, so you could make it only turn in the "hard-to-pick" direction.
I don't know what makes a lock harder to pick in one direction, though.
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by ffmurray » 8 Jun 2016 18:31
I was looking at this and depending on tolerances and everything, you may have designed a lock that would be pickable but could not be operated with a key. It seeps possible that if the tolerances were correct you could get the top pin to set and let the key pin drop back into the cylinder.out of the way.
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by GWiens2001 » 8 Jun 2016 21:37
It is a three and a half year old thread, ffmurray. However, it is rather similar to the Emhart locking-pin design.
Gordon
Just when you finally think you have learned it all, that is when you learn that you don't know anything yet.
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by ffmurray » 9 Jun 2016 17:31
GWiens2001 wrote:It is a three and a half year old thread, ffmurray. However, it is rather similar to the Emhart locking-pin design.
Gordon
I can see the need of many forums to stop dragging up of old topics. In the case of this sub forum where 17 threads down the page is a thread from a year ago and still on the first page is a thread from five years ago, i fail to see how this general thought pattern of many forums applies. While the OP may not post anymore, isnt it worth continuing a conversation for the purpose of expanding knowledge and letting people think out loud?
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by MBI » 9 Jun 2016 18:17
ffmurray wrote:I can see the need of many forums to stop dragging up of old topics. In the case of this sub forum where 17 threads down the page is a thread from a year ago and still on the first page is a thread from five years ago, i fail to see how this general thought pattern of many forums applies. While the OP may not post anymore, isnt it worth continuing a conversation for the purpose of expanding knowledge and letting people think out loud?
Here's my two cents on the issue of necro posting. I'm a moderator here but that doesn't make this a forum rule or anything, it's just my opinion: If you have information to add to the thread which is new and useful or substantive (and which hasn't already been covered by someone in the thread), then go ahead and post it no matter how old the thread is. If you're chiming in on a thread that is many months or years old just to say something like: "cool lock dude" or "nice picks" or just to offer a bland personal opinion on the subject but which doesn't improve the usefulness of the thread or add to the discussion in a way that's likely to stir up some meaningful discourse, I'd suggest just thinking it over a bit before clicking "submit".
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by FarmerFreak » 9 Jun 2016 23:31
ffmurray wrote:I was looking at this and depending on tolerances and everything, you may have designed a lock that would be pickable but could not be operated with a key. It seeps possible that if the tolerances were correct you could get the top pin to set and let the key pin drop back into the cylinder.out of the way.
THIS!! Needs to be mounted so gravity pulls the (would be) key pins down after setting the driver pins. Or use steel key pins and then use a magnetic pick. A long time ago I made a cylinder where the very idea was you could pick it, but not make a key. This is a much better and easier to make design.
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